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I have already replaced all 4 rotors with drilled slotted. My car was shaking when I hit the brakes, and I'm assuming that they were warped because the shaking while braking went away with the new drill slotted rotors. The shaking is back now. I'm assuming the new ones are warped. They lasted about 2 months. I know some people will say it is the brake pads, but I don't know. The new ceramic pads were squealing bad in the morning for a long time, but they don't squeal at all now. My question is how good are the oem
(42431-50090/43512-50240) rotors vs after market. There is a brand Ctek that looks exactly like the oem and are a lot cheaper. I will get genuine oem rotors if it will last longer and cure the shaking. I also want to know if the oem rotors have any rust protection? How do the oem pads compare to Wagner ceramic posi-quiet pads? I do have a bad right front strut, but will be changing it soon with kyb 551122. I think all of my control arms are good.
I think I found the solution finally. I've also replaced rotors 4 or 5 times.
Use Semi-metallic pads with new rotors (go ahead and go cheap on the rotors for once!) Only trade off is high pitched squeal coming from brakes which doesn't bother me. Brakes extremely smooth, no sign of warping yet after 10-15k miles and I drive it like I stole it. I'm also using a torque wrench on lug nuts and checking torque after shops touch it (which is rare).
No rust. Did you spect the calipers? It only does it when breaking from a high speed?
No spect to the calipers. Yes, it only does it at high speed. When I got the new rotors I drove fast on purpose then applied the brakes to test it out and it was smooth, but like I told you it didn't last. It might sound crazy but I think the pads I have are for the sport package, but I don't know if that could warp the rotors that fast. From what I'm reading this seems to be a common problem?
No spect to the calipers. Yes, it only does it at high speed. When I got the new rotors I drove fast on purpose then applied the brakes to test it out and it was smooth, but like I told you it didn't last. It might sound crazy but I think the pads I have are for the sport package, but I don't know if that could warp the rotors that fast. From what I'm reading this seems to be a common problem?
As johnnyg suggested, I would check the pads and calipers making sure they are clean and the pads aren't binding. Also while you're at it, grab each wheel and make sure there isn't any play, both vertically and laterally. You think the bad strut could be a possibility?
The high speed shake may be play somewhere in the steering/front end that is too minor to show up during inspection but does under extreme loads like that.
As johnnyg suggested, I would check the pads and calipers making sure they are clean and the pads aren't binding. Also while you're at it, grab each wheel and make sure there isn't any play, both vertically and laterally. You think the bad strut could be a possibility?
I've already had the wheels checked for play, and there was no play. I highly doubt that it is the strut because I've had other cars with struts that needed replacing and never had this problem.
I would guess they are warped. That is why I am not a big fan of slotted and drilled rotors. They may look neat but a lot less surface so the heat is concentrated in a smaller area and therefore easier to warp. I would get Centric coated from Rock Auto.
I finally got those garbage drilled slotted rotors off the car. I ordered the semi coated rotors from rockauto and had them put on. The shaking is gone but only time will tell if these are going to wrap. These aren't even a year old and look really bad These are the new Centrics You can't see the coating on the rotors now. It is just a smooth silver color.
Last edited by bass911; Aug 23, 2020 at 01:42 PM.
Reason: Misspelled word
Nice photos, thanks for posting the update. Let us know please how well you like the pq pro pads.
the AWD models have larger front and rear diameter brake disks. I wonder if at least the rear brake setup (rotors, calipers) would bolt on to the RWD model with no other modifications needed. A bigger brake setup could be a good defense against warping. Although I can’t say much because my AWD shimmies like the jimmies when the brakes are hot; I need to install my new brake rotors and pads too!
If your car shimmies like the jimmies get the semimetallic pads and any rotors you'll be good! These guys just don't warp and I stop hard all the time. I got the most expensive ones on rockauto so they were like $25-30. You can't appreciate the acceleration and muscle of the car when you're less than 100% sure of your brakes which doesn't happen when your shimmiyin like crazy when you touch the brakes!
If your car shimmies like the jimmies get the semimetallic pads and any rotors you'll be good! These guys just don't warp and I stop hard all the time. I got the most expensive ones on rockauto so they were like $25-30. You can't appreciate the acceleration and muscle of the car when you're less than 100% sure of your brakes which doesn't happen when your shimmiyin like crazy when you touch the brakes!
I bought rotors and pads already for the car (Not yet installed). I actually got two different kinds of pads for the front: EBC Greenstuff 2000 organic and Monroe semi-metallic. Monroe ceramic for the rear. I’m debating with myself about which set to use on the front. I want cold bite and low noise (at least I don’t want it to sound like a garbage truck when the brakes are applied)
The shimmies I feel in the jimmies are coming from the rear brakes as I don’t feel any steering wheel shake when braking but I can feel it from the seat!
Need help with new rotors?
