LS460 Air Ride Plan & Prep
LS460 Air Ride Plan & Prep
The LS460L although longer it looses a good bit of trunk space because of the additional rear air conditioning and cooler options (edit: if it has those options, thanks SW17LS) . The last LS460 install I did was on the shorter wheel base and had a much bigger trunk but still wanted to retain as much of the trunk space as possible. For this one as well wanted to retain trunk space so everything went in the wheel well too. The only thing I did different on this one was to sound proof the wheel well and add noise isolators for the compressors.
Parts I used:
Air Lift (50714) Compressor Isolator Kit (x2)
Noico 80mil sound deadner
Quiet Barrier 1/4" High Density Sound Barrier
Viair 444C Compressor (x2)
Ridetech management
3/8" Airline for the front air bags
1/4" Airline for the rear air bags
SMC check valve for the compressors
DEI Heat Shroud
With the wheel well vacuumed and cleaned I used some isopropyl alcohol to wipe down the wheel well to make sure there was no grease etc to help give the sound deadening a better bond. The power wire and signal wires were ran to the trunk and the power wire has its own circuit breaker and kill switch. For the signal wire, I tapped into the utilities fuse in the fuse block on the passenger side under the glove box.
Warmed up the back of the sound deadening and stuck it on. You can see the lines coming into the wheel well below. I drilled a 1.5" hole for the left and the right and was able to fit both the air lines and both level sensor wires for each side through it. All the lines coming out of the wheel well was wrapped with the DEI Heat shroud, just anywhere I thought might get affected by exhaust heat at all. The lines were ran under the car along the frame rails on either side. Have done this multiple times in the past without any issues. If the fuel lines and brake lines are going to be ok being run that way so should the air lines. The hole for the lines got sealed with flex tape to prevent contaminants entering the wheel well through the hole that was made. After the sound deadening was in place I test fitted where I wanted all the components. All the components are serviceable because I mounted bolts from under the wheel well and locked everything in place with lock nuts and washers. All the components slide onto the bolts and held in by nuts. Anything that need to be serviced, just remove the nuts and slide the component off. The tank, compressors on isolators and valve body is held down this way.
Over the sound deadening went the quiet barrier. I did wipe down the sound deadening with IPA as well to clean up any grease etc again to make sure the quiet barrier would bond better.
With all the test fitting etc done I wanted to streamline the wiring a little and also wanted to make sure the valve body didn't have any trash in it. I had a rebuilt kit handy just in case it needed anything. Ran all the wires with some techflex wire loom, soldered and heat shrunk all the connections. Opened up the valves and just ran compressed air through the internals to get rid of any debris, added some oil to the o-rings and plunger and assembled everything
The tank, painted and decaled.
Everything mounted and secured in the wheel well.
Powered everything up and let the compressors fill the tank and verified that all the valves operate in the right order. Filled up the tank to 150psi and checked for any leaks with soapy water, no leaks. Filled up the tank and left it overnight to verify no leaks, no leaks!! With all that done, and if everything goes according to plan, I just need to mount the ride height sensors, put the bags on and connect everything. Fingers crossed.
Full write up and larger pictures: Flawless Fitment
Parts I used:
Air Lift (50714) Compressor Isolator Kit (x2)
Noico 80mil sound deadner
Quiet Barrier 1/4" High Density Sound Barrier
Viair 444C Compressor (x2)
Ridetech management
3/8" Airline for the front air bags
1/4" Airline for the rear air bags
SMC check valve for the compressors
DEI Heat Shroud
With the wheel well vacuumed and cleaned I used some isopropyl alcohol to wipe down the wheel well to make sure there was no grease etc to help give the sound deadening a better bond. The power wire and signal wires were ran to the trunk and the power wire has its own circuit breaker and kill switch. For the signal wire, I tapped into the utilities fuse in the fuse block on the passenger side under the glove box.
Warmed up the back of the sound deadening and stuck it on. You can see the lines coming into the wheel well below. I drilled a 1.5" hole for the left and the right and was able to fit both the air lines and both level sensor wires for each side through it. All the lines coming out of the wheel well was wrapped with the DEI Heat shroud, just anywhere I thought might get affected by exhaust heat at all. The lines were ran under the car along the frame rails on either side. Have done this multiple times in the past without any issues. If the fuel lines and brake lines are going to be ok being run that way so should the air lines. The hole for the lines got sealed with flex tape to prevent contaminants entering the wheel well through the hole that was made. After the sound deadening was in place I test fitted where I wanted all the components. All the components are serviceable because I mounted bolts from under the wheel well and locked everything in place with lock nuts and washers. All the components slide onto the bolts and held in by nuts. Anything that need to be serviced, just remove the nuts and slide the component off. The tank, compressors on isolators and valve body is held down this way.
Over the sound deadening went the quiet barrier. I did wipe down the sound deadening with IPA as well to clean up any grease etc again to make sure the quiet barrier would bond better.
With all the test fitting etc done I wanted to streamline the wiring a little and also wanted to make sure the valve body didn't have any trash in it. I had a rebuilt kit handy just in case it needed anything. Ran all the wires with some techflex wire loom, soldered and heat shrunk all the connections. Opened up the valves and just ran compressed air through the internals to get rid of any debris, added some oil to the o-rings and plunger and assembled everything
The tank, painted and decaled.
Everything mounted and secured in the wheel well.
Powered everything up and let the compressors fill the tank and verified that all the valves operate in the right order. Filled up the tank to 150psi and checked for any leaks with soapy water, no leaks. Filled up the tank and left it overnight to verify no leaks, no leaks!! With all that done, and if everything goes according to plan, I just need to mount the ride height sensors, put the bags on and connect everything. Fingers crossed.
Full write up and larger pictures: Flawless Fitment
Last edited by kuWuPt; Jul 2, 2020 at 10:14 AM.
Driver
Joined: Jul 2016
Posts: 57
Likes: 5
From: BC
I am a newbie to the aftermarket air rides, so the questions I am asking may be pointless to you. Thus, I ask for your understanding.
Does this system fit the 2013 LS460 AWD?
I could see two compressors there and the tank. So, the tank will serve the airbags on all 4 corners. To check for leaks, one will need to use soapy water to trace down the line(s) from the tank to the airbags.
If an airbag leaks, can it be replaced independently, just the bag without throwing away the strut?
How much does the entire system cost, parts and labor?
Thanks
Leximum
Does this system fit the 2013 LS460 AWD?
I could see two compressors there and the tank. So, the tank will serve the airbags on all 4 corners. To check for leaks, one will need to use soapy water to trace down the line(s) from the tank to the airbags.
If an airbag leaks, can it be replaced independently, just the bag without throwing away the strut?
How much does the entire system cost, parts and labor?
Thanks
Leximum
I am a newbie to the aftermarket air rides, so the questions I am asking may be pointless to you. Thus, I ask for your understanding.
Does this system fit the 2013 LS460 AWD?
I could see two compressors there and the tank. So, the tank will serve the airbags on all 4 corners. To check for leaks, one will need to use soapy water to trace down the line(s) from the tank to the airbags.
If an airbag leaks, can it be replaced independently, just the bag without throwing away the strut?
How much does the entire system cost, parts and labor?
Thanks
Leximum
Does this system fit the 2013 LS460 AWD?
I could see two compressors there and the tank. So, the tank will serve the airbags on all 4 corners. To check for leaks, one will need to use soapy water to trace down the line(s) from the tank to the airbags.
If an airbag leaks, can it be replaced independently, just the bag without throwing away the strut?
How much does the entire system cost, parts and labor?
Thanks
Leximum
There are two compressors, a tank, valve body and the ECU for the management and it will all come together to control all 4 corners.
Soapy water to check for leaks.
If the bag itself leaks, it should either be leaking from the beginning, or due to iproper installation and the bag got nicked or it is in the lines, fittings and seals for the bags. If it does happen though yes the bags themselves can be replaced without changing the strut..
Cost is a variable that can change on what you need/want. You would want to check with a dealer/installer in regards to pricing.
Intermediate
Joined: Apr 2014
Posts: 270
Likes: 23
From: Texas
The LS460L although longer it looses a good bit of trunk space because of the additional rear air conditioning and cooler options (edit: if it has those options, thanks SW17LS) . The last LS460 install I did was on the shorter wheel base and had a much bigger trunk but still wanted to retain as much of the trunk space as possible. For this one as well wanted to retain trunk space so everything went in the wheel well too. The only thing I did different on this one was to sound proof the wheel well and add noise isolators for the compressors.
Parts I used:
Air Lift (50714) Compressor Isolator Kit (x2)
Noico 80mil sound deadner
Quiet Barrier 1/4" High Density Sound Barrier
Viair 444C Compressor (x2)
Ridetech management
3/8" Airline for the front air bags
1/4" Airline for the rear air bags
SMC check valve for the compressors
DEI Heat Shroud
With the wheel well vacuumed and cleaned I used some isopropyl alcohol to wipe down the wheel well to make sure there was no grease etc to help give the sound deadening a better bond. The power wire and signal wires were ran to the trunk and the power wire has its own circuit breaker and kill switch. For the signal wire, I tapped into the utilities fuse in the fuse block on the passenger side under the glove box.
Warmed up the back of the sound deadening and stuck it on. You can see the lines coming into the wheel well below. I drilled a 1.5" hole for the left and the right and was able to fit both the air lines and both level sensor wires for each side through it. All the lines coming out of the wheel well was wrapped with the DEI Heat shroud, just anywhere I thought might get affected by exhaust heat at all. The lines were ran under the car along the frame rails on either side. Have done this multiple times in the past without any issues. If the fuel lines and brake lines are going to be ok being run that way so should the air lines. The hole for the lines got sealed with flex tape to prevent contaminants entering the wheel well through the hole that was made. After the sound deadening was in place I test fitted where I wanted all the components. All the components are serviceable because I mounted bolts from under the wheel well and locked everything in place with lock nuts and washers. All the components slide onto the bolts and held in by nuts. Anything that need to be serviced, just remove the nuts and slide the component off. The tank, compressors on isolators and valve body is held down this way.
Over the sound deadening went the quiet barrier. I did wipe down the sound deadening with IPA as well to clean up any grease etc again to make sure the quiet barrier would bond better.
With all the test fitting etc done I wanted to streamline the wiring a little and also wanted to make sure the valve body didn't have any trash in it. I had a rebuilt kit handy just in case it needed anything. Ran all the wires with some techflex wire loom, soldered and heat shrunk all the connections. Opened up the valves and just ran compressed air through the internals to get rid of any debris, added some oil to the o-rings and plunger and assembled everything
The tank, painted and decaled.
Everything mounted and secured in the wheel well.
Powered everything up and let the compressors fill the tank and verified that all the valves operate in the right order. Filled up the tank to 150psi and checked for any leaks with soapy water, no leaks. Filled up the tank and left it overnight to verify no leaks, no leaks!! With all that done, and if everything goes according to plan, I just need to mount the ride height sensors, put the bags on and connect everything. Fingers crossed.
Full write up and larger pictures: Flawless Fitment
Parts I used:
Air Lift (50714) Compressor Isolator Kit (x2)
Noico 80mil sound deadner
Quiet Barrier 1/4" High Density Sound Barrier
Viair 444C Compressor (x2)
Ridetech management
3/8" Airline for the front air bags
1/4" Airline for the rear air bags
SMC check valve for the compressors
DEI Heat Shroud
With the wheel well vacuumed and cleaned I used some isopropyl alcohol to wipe down the wheel well to make sure there was no grease etc to help give the sound deadening a better bond. The power wire and signal wires were ran to the trunk and the power wire has its own circuit breaker and kill switch. For the signal wire, I tapped into the utilities fuse in the fuse block on the passenger side under the glove box.
Warmed up the back of the sound deadening and stuck it on. You can see the lines coming into the wheel well below. I drilled a 1.5" hole for the left and the right and was able to fit both the air lines and both level sensor wires for each side through it. All the lines coming out of the wheel well was wrapped with the DEI Heat shroud, just anywhere I thought might get affected by exhaust heat at all. The lines were ran under the car along the frame rails on either side. Have done this multiple times in the past without any issues. If the fuel lines and brake lines are going to be ok being run that way so should the air lines. The hole for the lines got sealed with flex tape to prevent contaminants entering the wheel well through the hole that was made. After the sound deadening was in place I test fitted where I wanted all the components. All the components are serviceable because I mounted bolts from under the wheel well and locked everything in place with lock nuts and washers. All the components slide onto the bolts and held in by nuts. Anything that need to be serviced, just remove the nuts and slide the component off. The tank, compressors on isolators and valve body is held down this way.
Over the sound deadening went the quiet barrier. I did wipe down the sound deadening with IPA as well to clean up any grease etc again to make sure the quiet barrier would bond better.
With all the test fitting etc done I wanted to streamline the wiring a little and also wanted to make sure the valve body didn't have any trash in it. I had a rebuilt kit handy just in case it needed anything. Ran all the wires with some techflex wire loom, soldered and heat shrunk all the connections. Opened up the valves and just ran compressed air through the internals to get rid of any debris, added some oil to the o-rings and plunger and assembled everything
The tank, painted and decaled.
Everything mounted and secured in the wheel well.
Powered everything up and let the compressors fill the tank and verified that all the valves operate in the right order. Filled up the tank to 150psi and checked for any leaks with soapy water, no leaks. Filled up the tank and left it overnight to verify no leaks, no leaks!! With all that done, and if everything goes according to plan, I just need to mount the ride height sensors, put the bags on and connect everything. Fingers crossed.
Full write up and larger pictures: Flawless Fitment
Do you have replace the OEM air struts to run this setup? or can you use OEM struts with this compressor?
Is this going to be a smoother ride than the OEM air suspension?
With the setup that you have, what was the approximate cost? With or without labor? If you don't mind me asking.
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