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My wife is not an aggressive driver. Car is almost 6 years old and just turned 60,000 miles. Mileage is about half city and half highway.
Originally Posted by comotiger
It's likely that all the rotors have been resurfaced at least once when the pads were changed. Is the brake service detailed in your service records? I understand it is not advisable to re-cut the rotors but to replace them, so the tech is correct. However, they are overcharging you. Buy the parts and have your indy mechanic do the job. You will save hundreds of dollars. I provided details on the other thread!
Rock Auto has had the Z23 kit on sale for awhile now. While I'd prefer to have gone with cryo-treated rotors, the 'rona has made finding those very difficult. Especially when you need to change them now and can't wait 3 months hoping they get here from China. I did the rear axle with the Z23 kit and I'm really pleased with it.
And when are you going to use the brakes in a 5,000 lb LS land barge in an extreme way? You aren’t.
Yesterday I did two 130 to 40 stops and multiple 85 to 40s in about 10 minutes overall timespan with trail braking once the lower speed was reached and at about 70 through two series of bends that according to the signs you are supposed to drive 35 through. Trail braking on throttle at that speed builds up a hell of a lot of heat and if you have 5 curves before the next straight there is not a good chance for cooling.
Some people do use them like that and if you are going to or may at some point spec the brakes to resist issues. If you never do then it's as said a useless upgrade that will wear pads slightly faster, but it's also why German cars usually have them since they design the whole car to pushed hard even if most never will.
And when are you going to use the brakes in a 5,000 lb LS land barge in an extreme way? You aren’t.
I am with you, Steve!
Originally Posted by Striker223
Yesterday I did two 130 to 40 stops and multiple 85 to 40s in about 10 minutes overall timespan with trail braking once the lower speed was reached and at about 70 through two series of bends that according to the signs you are supposed to drive 35 through. Trail braking on throttle at that speed builds up a hell of a lot of heat and if you have 5 curves before the next straight there is not a good chance for cooling.
130 to 40 and 85-40 rapid slowdowns? Where do you drive in Ohio?
Driving 70 in a 35 zone? I admire your courage.
I hope your tires are even better than your brakes!
130 to 40 and 85-40 rapid slowdowns? Where do you drive in Ohio?
Driving 70 in a 35 zone? I admire your courage.
I hope your tires are even better than your brakes!
Area between Delaware and Marion about 20 min out from the former has a great set of curves and straightaways, you can head out there around 3:30-4:30 am like I did yesterday and pre run to check for debris and then on the way back home run it at speed. 70 through a turn with the recommendation on the sign of 35 in a 60 mpg zone. The high speed sections are done in an area with no houses, poles, adjoining road or trees so if you do loose it worst than can happen is you hit a field and die and not damage anyone else's stuff or endanger anyone.
There is also the hocking hills loop that yo can look up the route online and is a great longer route if you are down there. Way more technical and I personally don't like it as much since there is never a good way to make sure there are not other cars coming towards you unless you have three spotters. The way it's setup will constantly temp you to cross the yellow and you should never do that unless you are on a road rally event
I use W rated Michelin tires I check before heading out on a run or to a track to make sure they don't have any issues. They provide good communication of what is going on traction wise, not as good as a set of true performance tires on a sports car obviously but adequate for 7-8/10ths driving. I would not push any car 10/10 on the roads and this one is not comfortable at anything more than about how hard I push it currently since it has too much roll.
I have have a perfect record in every respect if that matters at all, I just like speed and will admit it's my one weakness in terms of obeying laws. Same reason I will never own a bike, I would not have any self control with that much power
Last edited by Striker223; Aug 17, 2020 at 02:54 PM.
You are in the extreme, extreme minority with this sort of vehicle, Striker.
My LS460 has never even been over 90-95 MPH, and I find the 460, and certainly a 430 like you have not at all enjoyable to drive in that sort of way LOL
I hear you, Striker. But 130 mph at 4 am? What about deer? Just don't test Lady Luck once too often...
I have driven just past 100 only a few times, and that too for just a few seconds.
Be well, stay safe and enjoy your LS longer!
Originally Posted by SW17LS
You are in the extreme, extreme minority with this sort of vehicle, Striker.
My LS460 has never even been over 90-95 MPH, and I find the 460, and certainly a 430 like you have not at all enjoyable to drive in that sort of way LOL
I am well aware I'm the exception lol, I was only mentioning that there is a fringe case that better than OE/centric where higher temp compound pads and higher rated alloy will actually make a difference and I can at least in my case on about 15 cars confirm it does. I'm not saying that everyone needs it not that it's even a good idea in most cases, just that it is an option if your use case needs it.
The chance of deer is my only real fear, I pick open areas it's easier to spot them and I pre run to check for them but at the end of the day it's the one thing I have concern about. Had one jump in front my other Jeep and total it when I was coming back from work three years ago at 60 mph from behind trees. Really sucked.