I searched everywhere and could not find anyone that has replaced the drivers side motor mount. All of the info I found stated the motor had to come out. I had removed and reinstalled the passenger side while replacing my starter a while ago so I knew that one could come out. The drivers side was another story. With all of the steering components in the way, I couldn't see how it could be down without lowering the rack/sub-frame so down it came. I replaced both motor mounts and since I had to pop loose some of the control arms, I just replaced all 8 of them as well as new pads and rotors. I did this on jack stands and used two floor jacks to hold up the motor and to lower the rack out of the way.

Once all of the parts were out, there was a very intimidating bucket of bolts and parts strewn about. I wish a took a picture. Aside from a battery impact and battery ratchets, there where no special tools needed. I am not a mechanic but consider myself very mechanically inclined and have work on many different cars of mine and have done some very extensive projects/repairs. I know my way around a car so after popping the shields off, I knew what had to be done. This is not a project for the meek. I didn't need the manual at all. It's mainly knowledge of how the steering/rack work and common sense. I just started unbolting things that where in my way until i could access the drivers side mount and get it out. I knew at that point the passenger side would be no issue.

I wasn't trying to break any speed records so I started at about 10:00 am Saturday and after a lunch break, dinner break and a few beer breaks, I finished about 11:00 pm Saturday. The car is now smooth as silk. The mounts were not broken but the vibration while in drive at a stop light is completely gone. You don't even know its running. Previously, the vibration at idle in park annoyed me so much I would shift it into neutral where it would be smooth as silk. The control arm bushings were shot so the ride and response up front is amazing. It rides straight and true but I'm still going to get it aligned and replacing all of those parts and having the rack in and out.

So, At least I know the mounts can definitely be done without yanking the motor

 

I was just told my motor mount on the driver side is broken after I had it inspected by a mechanic. He said the labor alone is about 10 hours to replace it (at a professionally equipped shop) so I'd say you did pretty damn good. Fortunately for me, AutoNation's warranty will cover mine.

 

Props to you! It is very rewarding doing your own work on your car. Sometimes it ends up better than what a basic mechanic would have done since you are more careful and you would make sure all the nuts and bolts are put back on. I just did my rear struts which required the entire rear back seat to come to and some trim pieces. I doubt a basic mechanic would have replaced all the worn, damaged and missing trim retainer clips & clean and vacuum the area behind the seat.

The LS460 is really not that hard to work. You can do most things with just basic tools.

 

https://www.lexuspartsnow.com/parts/...ounting,,12361

Is this the mount you replaced?

theres also this: https://www.lexuspartsnow.com/parts/...ounting,,12351

I have some vibration and I was going to make sure i had all the parts before I get the shop to deal with it.

 

Thank you for posting Brewyourown. I replaced both of my engine mounts today using jack stands. I had already pressed in new control arm bushings a few weeks ago.

Here is a little how to if anyone is interested.

1. Remove splash shields from the bottom of the car.
2. Disconnect rack and pinion wire harness ( 3 plugs) and tuck it up out of the way in the fwd engine compartment.
3. Mark the steering shaft on the rack and pinion side ( lowest one) . Remove the locking bolt from the steering shaft and slide the steering shaft up off of the rack and pinion.
4. Remove the tie rods from the steering knuckles. ( thread nut on upside down and whack with a dead blow hammer to loosen each side)
5. Remove the 4 rack and pinion mount bolts. Keep track of the 4 nuts. The rack is fairly heavy 60lbs or so. I lowered it onto my chest while on a creeper. I recommend getting someone to help lower it.
6. Remove 2 10mm bolts on each fwd lower control arm that secure the speed sensor wire. You don't need to disconnect any sensors. You simply need a few more inches of slack in the wire harness for the next step.
7.Also remove the 1 10mm bolt for the headlight level sensor on the rear lower control arm left wheel only.
8. Remove the sway bar 2 nuts, 4 bolts.
9. Remove the forward lower control arm bolts that go through the subframe. Remove the rear lower control arm bolts that goes through the subframe. You do not need to remove the control arms at the knuckle. They can stay attached.
10. Lower all 4 control arms out of the subframe.
11. I used ratchet straps to pull the steering knuckles away from the car. Secure them to something heavy in your garage. You only need to pull the steering knuckle and control arms a few inches outboard. This is so the control arms don't get caught up when you lower the subframe.
12. Remove each lower engine mount nut.
13. Using some 2x4's and carpet for padding jack up the oil pan slightly. I jacked mine up about 1/4" this is mainly to make sure the engine is fully supported by the jacks and not resting on the mounts. I used 2 jacks it helps stabilize the engine. Once you remove the subframe the engine can tilt causing headaches. By using 2 jacks under the oil pan the engine is stable and adjustable.
14. Remove all 4 subframe bolts and nuts at the front crash bars.
15. Remove all 4 bolts behind where the sway bar mounting points are. The big black steel brackets will stay attached to the subframe and lowered as an assembly.
16. Remove all 4 main subframe bolts to lower the subframe. This is heavier than it looks. You need to slide it rear about 2 inches to clear the fwd crash bar mounting point. Mine pretty much fell out. Getting it in is a lot harder.
17. Remove the oil dipstick 2 10mm bolts. No need to pop the hood. The bolts are easily accessible from under the car. Slide the dipstick tube up to give yourself some room. I didn't remove the dipstick tube completely, just slide it up. The dipstick tube was nearly touching the top of my right engine mount threaded mounting stud.

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18. 2 Very IMPORTANT STEPS....1. There is a small 1/4" plastic spacer between the engine mount and the UPPER mounting bracket. New engine mounts do not come with the spacer. You need to remove it from your old mount and put it on the new mount before installing it. 2. The mounts are identical but you need to orientate them the right way. The mounts have little alignment pegs. Make sure the pegs are in the same location as you removed them.
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19. I had to remove the engine mounting bracket with the engine mount on the right side as an assembly. My 17mm wrench would not fit to remove the top engine mount nut.
20. The left mount I was able to use a ratcheting 17mm wrench to remove the top mount nut.
21. Once you have the mounts and important plastic spacer swapped out you can start reassembly.

The subframe fitment on the front crash bar mounts is tight. You will most likely need 2 people and a rubber hammer. This is the only step I had help with. I bolted up the front crash bar mounts. Then I did the 4 main large bolts that hold the subframe. Once the 4 main bolts are snug the 4 bolts near the sway bar should line up.
Next install your control arms. The control arms need to be installed before the Rack and pinion. If you install the rack first you will need to loosen the rack mounting bolts to lower it enough for the rear control arm bolt's to clear.

My car is now vibration free!

 

Sub frame is out. I used a transmission jack to move the sub frame back into place for reassembly. I still needed help.

I used ratchet straps to hold the steering knuckle assembly out of the way. right side

I used ratchet straps to hold the steering knuckle assembly out of the way. left side

Right engine mount and bracket.

Another view of the right engine mount and bracket. I did not replace the small vibration damper. I did call the dealer to inquire about it. Apparently there are only 5 in stock over the entire country. I don't think it's something that normally get's worn out or needs replacing.

The engine is supported by 2 jacks. Use carpet and wood to distribute the load on the oil pan.

You need either a transmission jack or 2 jacks like I used to support the engine so it doesn't tilt.

The drive up ramps I left under the car for added safety. I supported the vehicle with 6 ton jack stands on the frame of the car. My jack stands are padded and still left slight marks in the frame. I suggest using a piece of 2x4 or similar wood between the jack stand and the frame.

Toward the top of this picture the rack and pinion with it's 4 mounting bolts can be seen.

 

@miket000 you're our hero. Thank you!!

I just got my mounts finally (after a bad eBay experience and mylparts taking their sweet time) and I'm planning on diving in this weekend. Your notes will be immensely helpful.

I hope a mod can sticky this!