Brake Drama
#1
Driver
Thread Starter
Brake Drama
Well, my dash lit up on the way home tonight. I have a 2007 LS with 178k miles on it. As far as I can see from the VIN history the Brake Actuator has never been replaced. I am waiting for my buddy to bring back my BlueDriver, which hopefully will allow me to retrieve a code for this issue. Anyone know the diagnosis process to identify if the brake actuator is bad?
Popular Reply
05-12-19, 06:19 AM
Lexus Fanatic
I think the bottom line is that this has always been a collaborative forum, responses like the OP got above are out of line and outside of the character of this forum. We've always had a remarkable lack of that kind of stuff. Hopefully that isn't a trend.
I apologize for that response on behalf of the forum OP.
I apologize for that response on behalf of the forum OP.
#2
Why does this have to be drama, come on.
Get a code reader (ABS) and check it out !
178 k and you are a drama queen about a mechanical issue on an automobile.
Research what a code reader and diagnosis is before you post !
Do your research! You will come across more informed and may learn something!
Get a code reader (ABS) and check it out !
178 k and you are a drama queen about a mechanical issue on an automobile.
Research what a code reader and diagnosis is before you post !
Do your research! You will come across more informed and may learn something!
#4
Forum Administrator
iTrader: (2)
Let’s lighten up on the personal commentary please. Drama was in the title as a turn of phrase, the question asked was pretty even keel
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#5
Fair enough!
I just get frustrated when people do not do research web wide when a problem arises!
They just get lazy and post without any research at all, it must be generational
Before I ask a question with a concern I will exhaust all avenues!
I just get frustrated when people do not do research web wide when a problem arises!
They just get lazy and post without any research at all, it must be generational
Before I ask a question with a concern I will exhaust all avenues!
#7
If the OP researched fully and found his answer he might not have been compelled to post on our forum and allow us all to follow his experiences and possibly benefit from his conclusions. OP, please let us know what you find out about your brakes. I, for one, would be interested as I fully expect mine to do the same one of these days.
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#8
Why does this have to be drama, come on.
Get a code reader (ABS) and check it out !
178 k and you are a drama queen about a mechanical issue on an automobile.
Research what a code reader and diagnosis is before you post !
Do your research! You will come across more informed and may learn something!
Get a code reader (ABS) and check it out !
178 k and you are a drama queen about a mechanical issue on an automobile.
Research what a code reader and diagnosis is before you post !
Do your research! You will come across more informed and may learn something!
#9
Racer
If the OP researched fully and found his answer he might not have been compelled to post on our forum and allow us all to follow his experiences and possibly benefit from his conclusions. OP, please let us know what you find out about your brakes. I, for one, would be interested as I fully expect mine to do the same one of these days.
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#10
#11
Driver
Thread Starter
Hey guys! Wow, I didn’t mean to trigger someone into a rage fit. I have been researching this issue since I picked up my LS last year. From the research that I have done, most threads relating to these brake issues just detail the cost to replace these parts and what people were able to get done under Lexus warranty. My car has a rebuilt title and thus Lexus will not consider replacing my parts under warranty. I plan to fix the issue myself and will try to document as much as possible for other members.
I am simply asking if someone knows of a diagnosis process to pinpoint this issue. I don’t have all data access or know a Lexus mechanic that can give me some tips on a DIY repair.
Hopefully when I get my BlueDriver back later this afternoon I will have more details, but when these parts can run over 1k I just don’t want to start ordering parts and cross my fingers that it fixes the issue.
I have worked and many cars and even built my old LS1 swapped 240sx a few years ago. Anyone that has worked on cars before, knows there can be many different causes for a variety of issues.
I am simply asking if someone knows of a diagnosis process to pinpoint this issue. I don’t have all data access or know a Lexus mechanic that can give me some tips on a DIY repair.
Hopefully when I get my BlueDriver back later this afternoon I will have more details, but when these parts can run over 1k I just don’t want to start ordering parts and cross my fingers that it fixes the issue.
I have worked and many cars and even built my old LS1 swapped 240sx a few years ago. Anyone that has worked on cars before, knows there can be many different causes for a variety of issues.
#13
It's pretty simple, just bring the car to Lexus and have them run the diagnostic real quick to confirm if it's the actuator. It's pretty obvious when the actuator has failed with the codes, and they'll be able to tell you right away with the stored codes. You can also bring it to Autozone and have them scan it, though I don't know if the stored codes will appear. Other than that, you're just going to be blindly guessing until you get yourself techstream or do what I said.
That being said, at 178k miles and with a salvage title I wouldn't even bother if they confirm it's the actuator. 178k miles with a clean title would be a $7-8k car if it's in good condition. With a salvage title, that's a $4k car in working condition. The part itself is $1,100, unless you're going to try to rebuild the actuator: then the motor itself is $600, and that's not even a guarantee for fixing . And a used one is $700-800. After the brake bleed and everything, you just spent 1/4 of the value of the car. You might still get $4k for the broken car, but you're definitely never getting that $1,000 back.
That being said, at 178k miles and with a salvage title I wouldn't even bother if they confirm it's the actuator. 178k miles with a clean title would be a $7-8k car if it's in good condition. With a salvage title, that's a $4k car in working condition. The part itself is $1,100, unless you're going to try to rebuild the actuator: then the motor itself is $600, and that's not even a guarantee for fixing . And a used one is $700-800. After the brake bleed and everything, you just spent 1/4 of the value of the car. You might still get $4k for the broken car, but you're definitely never getting that $1,000 back.
The OP could dump the Lexus and get an Accord with a loan. He might pay $300/month or $3,600/year. That is at least a few grand more than the actuator replacement. Also, he'd have to pay that $300/month for the next 5 years. If the Lexus didn't need any other special repairs, other than normal wear items, in the next 5 years, then he'd be even further ahead simply replacing the actuator. Also, once he's spent that $3,600/year, it means he can no longer invest that money, so there is an opportunity cost associated with this choice as well. Lastly, that brand new Accord might not be as nice as the LS460 with 175k on it. Depends on the condition of his Lexus vehicle.
Sure, who doesn't like a brand new car? But just remember, cars are not assets, they are liabilities and all cars cost money to keep on the road . . .
#14
Driver
Thread Starter
@abs
Wow! Nicely put. I have no intentions on purchasing a new car. The LS is in great condition and will run for another 100k miles. If anything, it might be my 15 year olds first car next year.
I’ve been around cars my whole life, my dad sold cars for over 30 years and I’ve had a least 30 cars since turning 16. At this point in my life, with a wife and 4 kids. I would rather drive a car without a car payment and use my excess cash to build another project car or fun toy. I just paid off all my debt and built a new house, not looking to dump the car and jump into a car payment.
Wow! Nicely put. I have no intentions on purchasing a new car. The LS is in great condition and will run for another 100k miles. If anything, it might be my 15 year olds first car next year.
I’ve been around cars my whole life, my dad sold cars for over 30 years and I’ve had a least 30 cars since turning 16. At this point in my life, with a wife and 4 kids. I would rather drive a car without a car payment and use my excess cash to build another project car or fun toy. I just paid off all my debt and built a new house, not looking to dump the car and jump into a car payment.
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#15
@abs
Wow! Nicely put. I have no intentions on purchasing a new car. The LS is in great condition and will run for another 100k miles. If anything, it might be my 15 year olds first car next year.
I’ve been around cars my whole life, my dad sold cars for over 30 years and I’ve had a least 30 cars since turning 16. At this point in my life, with a wife and 4 kids. I would rather drive a car without a car payment and use my excess cash to build another project car or fun toy. I just paid off all my debt and built a new house, not looking to dump the car and jump into a car payment.
Wow! Nicely put. I have no intentions on purchasing a new car. The LS is in great condition and will run for another 100k miles. If anything, it might be my 15 year olds first car next year.
I’ve been around cars my whole life, my dad sold cars for over 30 years and I’ve had a least 30 cars since turning 16. At this point in my life, with a wife and 4 kids. I would rather drive a car without a car payment and use my excess cash to build another project car or fun toy. I just paid off all my debt and built a new house, not looking to dump the car and jump into a car payment.
Smart man!
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