Please Help Me Find The Issue From These Codes
The car is a 2008 LS460 that has about 109000 miles on it now. I bought it from a local Toyota dealership at 96k, The car has been great other than I'm going to have to replace the front rotors and had to replace headlight bulbs shortly after buying it. No mods other than the Oliver exhaust vents. Driving a couple of weeks ago the typical lights that I've read about here come on the dash, along with check VSC. I buy a fixd and I pull the codes. I'm going to list in order of the way they came over time.
12/23/18 P2195 oxygen air/fuel sensor signal stuck lean bank 1. Cleared code
12/24/18 P0171, P2195, P0138 which all seem related since they're all bank 1
1/4/19 P0171, and a new one C1241 ABS Low Battery Positive Voltage. WTF? Cleared the code. It returned with C1201 ABS Inlet Valve Coil LF Circuit Short to Ground, with P0171, C1241 Smh.
So I figured from doing research here, maybe it's the battery. According to Carfax it's only a year old. It's a Toyota battery. I take it to Autozone for a free testing. Everything checks good. The battery, the alternator, and the starter. Hmmm.
So I figured maybe the young guy didn't check it correctly. So this morning I unhooked the battery, cleaned everything to make sure the connection is good; and I figured I'll charge it to make sure it has a good charge. Charger indicator went straight to battery charged. So I'm scratching my head. I don't want to change something that isn't broken and the ABS low voltage codes make no since to me at all. They came after the other codes and the battery and charging system checked good. I read that a battery can check good and still be bad, but I've never experienced it personally. It's only a year old too. Currently I'm only getting the C1241 on my scanner which won't clear. No check engine light. The others will probably return when I drive it.
If anyone is familiar with this experience, please share it with me. I searched the forum extensively, but couldn't really find my combination of codes Thanks ahead!
12/23/18 P2195 oxygen air/fuel sensor signal stuck lean bank 1. Cleared code
12/24/18 P0171, P2195, P0138 which all seem related since they're all bank 1
1/4/19 P0171, and a new one C1241 ABS Low Battery Positive Voltage. WTF? Cleared the code. It returned with C1201 ABS Inlet Valve Coil LF Circuit Short to Ground, with P0171, C1241 Smh.
So I figured from doing research here, maybe it's the battery. According to Carfax it's only a year old. It's a Toyota battery. I take it to Autozone for a free testing. Everything checks good. The battery, the alternator, and the starter. Hmmm.
So I figured maybe the young guy didn't check it correctly. So this morning I unhooked the battery, cleaned everything to make sure the connection is good; and I figured I'll charge it to make sure it has a good charge. Charger indicator went straight to battery charged. So I'm scratching my head. I don't want to change something that isn't broken and the ABS low voltage codes make no since to me at all. They came after the other codes and the battery and charging system checked good. I read that a battery can check good and still be bad, but I've never experienced it personally. It's only a year old too. Currently I'm only getting the C1241 on my scanner which won't clear. No check engine light. The others will probably return when I drive it.
If anyone is familiar with this experience, please share it with me. I searched the forum extensively, but couldn't really find my combination of codes Thanks ahead!
Last edited by DSMLS; Jan 5, 2019 at 10:11 AM.
This part of the forum is fine, because it's an LS460, but there are only so many of us who'll dive deep into ECU/TCU/BCU codes. I'm one of those, and I'm thinking about it, but this is some rather odd behavior. The low voltage bit, I'll admit, that one has me confused, and I'd wager, whatever is causing that is causing most, if not all, of the rest of them.
You've already done what I would have suggested, remove the terminals, clean 'em up, maybe put some dielectric grease on them, and put it back together. Um, did you check the cells to make certain the electrolyte level is okay? Just remember, distilled water only and to only the bottom edge of the top of the battery.
If you want to keep terminal corrosion to an absolute minimum, put about 1/2 of an ounce of mineral oil (can be found at the grocery store, near the pharmacy) in each cell before you add distilled water. Sounds totally bogus, I know, but I've been doing it for 20 years, and it works perfectly. One of those batteries lasted 11 years, one 12 (was in my wife's RX300), and four deep-cycle batteries I abused lasted a decade. The deep-cycle ones were in a motorcoach, and what killed them was not keeping them charged, which was totally my fault and not related to the mineral oil. Regardless, I ran that set of four 6V cells down to single-digit voltage more than a few times.
The oil slick on top of the electrolyte reservoir traps gas (hydrogen) given off during charging, keeping it inside the battery's case, preventing terminal corrosion.
You've already done what I would have suggested, remove the terminals, clean 'em up, maybe put some dielectric grease on them, and put it back together. Um, did you check the cells to make certain the electrolyte level is okay? Just remember, distilled water only and to only the bottom edge of the top of the battery.
If you want to keep terminal corrosion to an absolute minimum, put about 1/2 of an ounce of mineral oil (can be found at the grocery store, near the pharmacy) in each cell before you add distilled water. Sounds totally bogus, I know, but I've been doing it for 20 years, and it works perfectly. One of those batteries lasted 11 years, one 12 (was in my wife's RX300), and four deep-cycle batteries I abused lasted a decade. The deep-cycle ones were in a motorcoach, and what killed them was not keeping them charged, which was totally my fault and not related to the mineral oil. Regardless, I ran that set of four 6V cells down to single-digit voltage more than a few times.
The oil slick on top of the electrolyte reservoir traps gas (hydrogen) given off during charging, keeping it inside the battery's case, preventing terminal corrosion.
Last edited by mckellyb; Jan 5, 2019 at 12:48 PM.
This part of the forum is fine, because it's an LS460, but there are only so many of us who'll dive deep into ECU/TCU/BCU codes. I'm one of those, and I'm thinking about it, but this is some rather odd behavior. The low voltage bit, I'll admit, that one has me confused, and I'd wager, whatever is causing that is causing most, if not all, of the rest of them.
You've already done what I would have suggested, remove the terminals, clean 'em up, maybe put some dielectric grease on them, and put it back together. Um, did you check the cells to make certain the electrolyte level is okay? Just remember, distilled water only and to only the bottom edge of the top of the battery.
If you want to keep terminal corrosion to an absolute minimum, put about 1/2 of an ounce of mineral oil (can be found at the grocery store, near the pharmacy) in each cell before you add distilled water. Sounds totally bogus, I know, but I've been doing it for 20 years, and it works perfectly. One of those batteries lasted 11 years, one 12 (was in my wife's RX300), and four deep-cycle batteries I abused lasted a decade. The deep-cycle ones were in a motorcoach, and what killed them was not keeping them charged, which was totally my fault and not related to the mineral oil.
The oil slick on top of the electrolyte reservoir traps gas (hydrogen) given off during charging, keeping it inside the battery's case, preventing terminal corrosion.
You've already done what I would have suggested, remove the terminals, clean 'em up, maybe put some dielectric grease on them, and put it back together. Um, did you check the cells to make certain the electrolyte level is okay? Just remember, distilled water only and to only the bottom edge of the top of the battery.
If you want to keep terminal corrosion to an absolute minimum, put about 1/2 of an ounce of mineral oil (can be found at the grocery store, near the pharmacy) in each cell before you add distilled water. Sounds totally bogus, I know, but I've been doing it for 20 years, and it works perfectly. One of those batteries lasted 11 years, one 12 (was in my wife's RX300), and four deep-cycle batteries I abused lasted a decade. The deep-cycle ones were in a motorcoach, and what killed them was not keeping them charged, which was totally my fault and not related to the mineral oil.
The oil slick on top of the electrolyte reservoir traps gas (hydrogen) given off during charging, keeping it inside the battery's case, preventing terminal corrosion.
This is the correct forum to post your question. Google indicates that this all has something to do with your battery. I would take it to the dealer since the battery should still be under warranty.
That's what I come with, except it tested good at AutoZone. I'll check with the Toyota dealership I bought it from and see if they'll replace it. I'm just wondering if when they test it will it come up good.
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That makes since. I'll have my shop delve into it when I take it in for an oil change soon. Air/fuel sensor is probably just done. They seem to go out around this mileage based on my research. Thanks to everyone for helping. I know you see these types of questions often.
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