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Front control arm bushings FAIL AGAIN

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Old Nov 25, 2018 | 06:45 AM
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Default Front control arm bushings FAIL AGAIN

2000 miles later the bushings are done again. I haven’t felt a difference in steering however it was incredibly visible when I took the wheels off.
Developed a noise that I can only explain as a rattle from the front end (mostly passenger side) only over inconsistencies in the road, not over larger bumps though.
Developed a creaking/clunking/springy noise from the steering only when the wheel is almost fully turned to either side.
its making me anxious and I just did the entirety of the front control arms ball joints and tie rods. Will probably sell the car if I can’t figure this out soon.
What should I look for next? Steering knuckles? Sway bar? Is it my axle?
MY REAL QUESTION HERE IS; COULD THERE BE ANOTHER SUSPENSION PIECE SO WORN OUT THAT ITS CAUSING EXCESS STRESS ON THE CONTROL ARMS?

Last edited by Legus; Nov 25, 2018 at 06:52 AM.
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Old Nov 25, 2018 | 06:55 AM
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I was running into similar issues before I sold my car...replaced control arms, sway bar links and bushings. The only thing I didn't do was ball joints and struts. I still have the ball joints...never put them in because they felt fine.

My car was also starting ti make a noise noise whenever I stepped on the brakes...didn't matter if I was moving or not. I'd get a chirping sound comi from the brake actuator/master cylinder area. That's when I decided, enough is enough, I'm done. Great car overall though, and mine had almost 180,000 miles on it.
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Old Nov 25, 2018 | 08:12 AM
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Originally Posted by Legus
2000 miles later the bushings are done again. I haven’t felt a difference in steering however it was incredibly visible when I took the wheels off.
Developed a noise that I can only explain as a rattle from the front end (mostly passenger side) only over inconsistencies in the road, not over larger bumps though.
Developed a creaking/clunking/springy noise from the steering only when the wheel is almost fully turned to either side.
its making me anxious and I just did the entirety of the front control arms ball joints and tie rods. Will probably sell the car if I can’t figure this out soon.
What should I look for next? Steering knuckles? Sway bar? Is it my axle?
MY REAL QUESTION HERE IS; COULD THERE BE ANOTHER SUSPENSION PIECE SO WORN OUT THAT ITS CAUSING EXCESS STRESS ON THE CONTROL ARMS?
What did u change when you first had the problem? just the bushings? which did you use?
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Old Nov 25, 2018 | 04:29 PM
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Its the aftermarket control arms, they are all generic no name stuff made in china that is rebranded with names like beck arnley, movotech, ac delco , dorman etc...

Due to the heavy size of our cars this stuff wont cut it, im sure its fine on your average honda or Toyota etc but not with a 4500 pound LS whale.

I purchased PSB urethane bushings and they are being installed as we speak, I will update on the ride quality once I get the car back.

If you search around u will find tons of posts now of peoples aftermarket arms and bushings failing in a year or less
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Old Nov 25, 2018 | 04:48 PM
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Originally Posted by 1WILLY1
Its the aftermarket control arms, they are all generic no name stuff made in china that is rebranded with names like beck arnley, movotech, ac delco , dorman etc...

Due to the heavy size of our cars this stuff wont cut it, im sure its fine on your average honda or Toyota etc but not with a 4500 pound LS whale.

I purchased PSB urethane bushings and they are being installed as we speak, I will update on the ride quality once I get the car back.

If you search around u will find tons of posts now of peoples aftermarket arms and bushings failing in a year or less
*****,
Keep us posted on how this works out with the Poly bushings.
Would you also link your source for the bushings?
I am a DIY so I would do this myself when mine go. I have a press and all the tools necessary. I would keep the oem arms and just replace the bushings. I know the poly bushings may result in a little harsher ride and wonder if you will be able to feel it.

Also, are you running factory air struts or non-air?

Thanks,
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Old Nov 25, 2018 | 04:53 PM
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Originally Posted by Luscombe8A
*****,
Keep us posted on how this works out with the Poly bushings.
Would you also link your source for the bushings?
I am a DIY so I would do this myself when mine go. I have a press and all the tools necessary. I would keep the oem arms and just replace the bushings. I know the poly bushings may result in a little harsher ride and wonder if you will be able to feel it.

Also, are you running factory air struts or non-air?

Thanks,
No problem, ill let u know by Monday or Tuesday hopefully

I dealt with Armstrong bushings, they are out of cali I think, the guy John was decent to deal with and he claims their bushings are not too harsh at all, they are made for daily driving and not the track so I will find out soon enough.

Im on factory air struts still on both my 07 L and 08 L but plan to convert to regular kyb struts and tanabe lowering springs by the spring.

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Old Nov 25, 2018 | 06:07 PM
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Please & Thank You. Can’t wait to hear how those feel, will be ordering them with your feedback. My friend has the press at his brothers shop and already offered.
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Old Nov 25, 2018 | 06:37 PM
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Originally Posted by 1WILLY1
No problem, ill let u know by Monday or Tuesday hopefully

I dealt with Armstrong bushings, they are out of cali I think, the guy John was decent to deal with and he claims their bushings are not too harsh at all, they are made for daily driving and not the track so I will find out soon enough.

Im on factory air struts still on both my 07 L and 08 L but plan to convert to regular kyb struts and tanabe lowering springs by the spring.
I’m also getting the whole front bushings done with Armstrong bushings kit, but I’m scheduled for Thursday. I can update you guys if 1Willy1 doesn’t.
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Old Nov 25, 2018 | 07:03 PM
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All updates are welcome. Especially if you provide part numbers and contact info.

*****, when you decide to swap out the air struts for KYB & Tanabe, please post the details. There are many who are running air struts and considering replacement options. Details would be great.
When you do the swap, I suspect you will need to disable the air sensor, compressor to prevent the fault codes. These details along with the ride quality would be awesome.
Thanks *****
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Old Nov 25, 2018 | 08:17 PM
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Originally Posted by Luscombe8A
All updates are welcome. Especially if you provide part numbers and contact info.

*****, when you decide to swap out the air struts for KYB & Tanabe, please post the details. There are many who are running air struts and considering replacement options. Details would be great.
When you do the swap, I suspect you will need to disable the air sensor, compressor to prevent the fault codes. These details along with the ride quality would be awesome.
Thanks *****
yep ill post part numbers as well, that's a good idea for anyone who sees this thread in the future

I am only doing my front lowers as the uppers are still fine

regarding the air to spring swap apparently all you need to do is leave the height sensors in place and the warning lights shouldn't be triggered
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Old Nov 26, 2018 | 07:25 AM
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Originally Posted by 1WILLY1
regarding the air to spring swap apparently all you need to do is leave the height sensors in place and the warning lights shouldn't be triggered
I am hoping that you will actually confirm this when you get to that point in your journey. Not sure what to do or how to deal with the air lines and compressor. Just cap them off? Lot's of anecdotal info on forum about how to convert from air to KYB + Coil overs and not much detail. You can be the pioneer here with a detailed instruction so others can follow
Thanks
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Old Nov 26, 2018 | 08:24 AM
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In for updates on the poly bushings
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Old Nov 26, 2018 | 02:54 PM
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In for the updates as I have a 2010 sport with Air and will be converting soon.
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Old Nov 27, 2018 | 09:27 AM
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I think driving style and driving conditions affect the control arm bushing wear rate. More highway is easier than city driving with many stops. And how you come to a complete stop (feathering the brake as the car fully stops vs. letting the car abruptly stop and bounce fore-aft slightly once stopped - which definitely puts more stress on the bushings).
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Old Nov 27, 2018 | 10:17 AM
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Yes!

1WILLY1, we are all waiting with baited breath for the results here... :-)
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