jdanielca

exactly lol there are somethings that are worth saving money for and some things not.. and we each have different ideas of what is what.....

jdanielca

control arms is one thing because there is no difference between the aftermarket ones (it seems) and the toyota ones... and that is plan to see no need to send it to some lab to make that determination.... oil and filters however are a bit more of an abstract point 10-20 USD more every year/20,000km or so is no big deal..... compared to the control arms type of money....

SW17LS

Theres also a difference in savings between $20 for a better oil filter and $7 for a crappy one, and $1000 for cheaper control arms vs $3,000 for OEM control arms.

My Amsoil filter costs me $39 more a year if I'm changing oil at 5k than the OEM Toyota filter. Big deal.

jdanielca

in your opinion.

pappy97

Here's a perhaps dumb question about oil filters and this car that I have:

Any issue if I use an AMSOIL filter with Mobile 1 synthetic oil? A filter is a filter right? No need to use the associated oil with that filter, right? I like Mobile 1 Full Synthetic Oil, but want to try the amsoil filter with it.

writes123

I haven't been hearing great things about the Denso filter. No synthetic media inside versus the M1 filter. I am thinking of using the Bosch myself for around 7 USD, Also heard great things about the Purolator products. Overall, regular change of oil and filter are key imho.

Also, anyone use the WM Super Tech 0W-20 HM oil. Just came across PQIA showing it has decent stats versus the large name brand oils. Nearly 10 quarts every 5k miles can amount to something when you drive this Lexus on long commutes.

http://pqiadata.org/SuperTech_HM_SYN_0W20.html

sha4000

iTrader: (1)

I've been using the super tech stuff in all my cars for more than a year and have had no problems. 5k oil changes.

writes123

Thanks for letting me know. I'm not stuck with brand name and with 5k oil changes almost feel that conventional oil would be fine. When the full synthetic is that close in price to regular conventional though, I'd spring for the Walmart synthetic overr name brand semi-syn or conventional.

Doublebase

lobuxracer

iTrader: (2)

Interesting discussion on religion here. Filters aren't nearly the big deal people make them out to be especially in low load applications. The performance side of the Lexus house has had many discussions about oil. I formerly ran Mobil1 5w-30. Now 5W30 Renewable Lubricants, Bio-SynXtra, Super High Performance. In load tests, it performs almost as well as Amsoil Signature Series, better than Mobil 1 of any flavor, and is best at controlling fuel dilution which is a huge problem for the OEM tune on our engines. Mobil 1 EP gave me the worst wear numbers I have ever seen from a synthetic. I only ran it once. Lots more in these threads including posts from Blackstone and Tribologik:

https://www.clublexus.com/forums/is-...-uoa-here.html

https://www.clublexus.com/forums/rc-...hetic-oil.html

Finally, 540RAT's blog has a massive amount of useful information. I don't agree with him on everything especially his change interval advice, but I do agree with his oil load rankings and I agree an oil initially capable of supporting a higher load will provide more reliable protection than one only capable of supporting a lesser load. Super Tech did not test well. As always, YMMV.

https://540ratblog.wordpress.com/201...-test-ranking/

writes123

I recall coming across that blog while having my 430 but forgot about it. Great info and things to think about. It appears to me that one of the most readily available oils in recommended weights (0W-20 or 5W-20) without additives is the #7 0W-20 Quaker State Ultimate Durability, API SN, synthetic (originally gold, now green bottle). Usually costing around $20 USD for 5 quarts, it's a small price over the Supertech but still less than other name brand oils in similar weight. I'm leaning towards trying out that after finishing my initial 3k run with SuperTech High Mileage 0W-20.

lobuxracer

iTrader: (2)

QSUD is a very good choice and many people run it based on its load capacity and its low price. The ONLY reason I like RLI is because it handles fuel dilution better than anything else out there, and the tune Lexus uses defaults to more rich to ensure fewer warranty replacements. Running a little rich won't kill an engine. Running a little lean will definitely increase warranty claims, so they tune for warranty, not power, and not oil service life. Like all things Lexus, they don't really care if your operational costs are a little higher or your power output is a little lower as long as their choices default to long term reliability.

pappy97

Hmmm, thinking I may just run QUSD + Amsoil filter going forward. Thanks!

lobuxracer

iTrader: (2)

FWIW, here's what 540RAT got from SuperTech 5w30 synthetic:

123. 5W30 Walmart Supertech, API SN, dexos 1 gen 2 approved, synthetic, silver gray bottle = 84,570 psi
This oil cost $4.97 per quart in December 2017.

This is two spots up from Royal Purple 5w30. Not what many would expect given RP's marketing.

QSUD or Pennzoil Platinum with Pure Plus are both substantially better load bearing oils and in the same price range as Super Tech synthetic.

0W20 Quaker State Ultimate Durability, API SN, synthetic (gold bottle) = 124,393 psi
Its onset of Thermal Breakdown = 270*F

0W20 Pennzoil Platinum, Pure Plus Technology, made from Natural Gas, API SN, synthetic
(silver bottle with blue vertical stripe on the label) = 92,504 psi
It’s onset of Thermal Breakdown = 275*F

The Wear Protection reference categories are:.
• Over 105,000 psi = INCREDIBLE wear protection.
• 90,000 to 105,000 psi = OUTSTANDING wear protection.
• 75,000 to 90,000 psi = GOOD wear protection.
• 60,000 to 75,000 psi = MODEST wear protection.
• Below 60,000 psi = UNDESIRABLE wear protection

jdanielca

whats the diff between the gold and green bottle?