Low-pressure A/C port location?
#1
Lexus Test Driver
Thread Starter
Low-pressure A/C port location?
Anyone know? I looked for it a bit, today, but it was 104F in the garage, humidity of 50%.
I have to assume it's on the passenger's side, somewhere, but that engine bay is packed mighty tightly.
I think my refrigerant charge may be a few ounces low.
I have to assume it's on the passenger's side, somewhere, but that engine bay is packed mighty tightly.
I think my refrigerant charge may be a few ounces low.
#2
I don't think anyone knows the answer. I have checked all my resources and can not find the answer. I have never looked for it under the hood. May have to ask the shop when i have it serviced next time.
Anyone else ??
Anyone else ??
#3
Do you have a picture of ur engine bay? Also some cars only hold a few oz of 134a ther should be a little chart near radiator that tells you how much and what kind
#4
Changed oil today so took a look around again. All is in front on the driver side. Site glass and High pressure behind grill the Low and other High is behind the drivers headlight. I am thinking the second High is for the A/C running to the rear since i have 4 zone control.
Anyway here you go. I really thought it would be more hidden.
Anyway here you go. I really thought it would be more hidden.
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mckellyb (07-29-17)
#5
Auto AC Fittings Are Red Or Blue and they are not interchangeable you won't be able to put a low side adapter onto the High and vise 'verse... A lot of variables with auto AC I can only suggest that you roll up windows put max ac on and make sure you have it so that your not pulling outside air in (in park of course) keep an eye on the sight glass look for bubbles (indicates low charge problem with that is you have to find out why)also check lines for sweating ...if you have a digital thermometer you can check your discharge temps at the vents,,FYI treat all piping Like it Red Hot
#6
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Hi, i need to charge my ac also. Did you figure out where low side port is located? I try to reserch everywhere but no luck. Thanks in advance.
Never mind. Thanks, I just saw your pic.
^ ^
Never mind. Thanks, I just saw your pic.
^ ^
#7
Lexus Test Driver
Thread Starter
Thanks, johnnyg66! I'd have looked last on the driver's side.
I'm taking it apart next week, because it's been over 100F for several days, while it's not warm, I think it should be colder.
I'm taking it apart next week, because it's been over 100F for several days, while it's not warm, I think it should be colder.
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#8
Good deal. I have a A/C pro kit i use on another car. The nozzle fit fine and mine read just over 40. In the green zone. I have not had mine serviced in over 2 years. Still working fine.
#9
Dredging up a nearly 4 year old thread rather than starting a new one. My car has been cycling the compressor on / off / on / off (and so on) while idling. It's not supposed to do that. But it seems to cool just fine.
On my car, it is easy to hear the A/C cycling because when it goes to ON, the exhaust gives a nice sounding rumble, through the Exhaust Vents. But regardless, it's not supposed to cycle. This a good thread for where to find the Lo and Hi pressure ports (pictures attached in previous replies).
The following is why I want to add to this thread. Those so called "kits," are not the right way to charge your system. They are more or less shot in the dark. It might be OK. It might be still low. I doubt you'd over charge it. I'm not saying don't use them. They're better than doing nothing.
While I was with Hyundai, part of my job was to do A/C audits. I learned the system. It is actually very simple. The main points learned, is that 95% of the time, the root cause of problems with the A/C is low refrigerant, due to a leak. Generally a very small leak. And the only true way to charge your A/C system and know it is charged correctly, is to evacuate the system, then add the specified amount (weight) of refrigerant to the system.
I am an advocate for doing it the right way, with the exception that I am the world's worst procrastinator alive. I have a pickup truck. An old Dodge. They are not known for a robust A/C system. For years I would just throw a can of refrigerant in it, and it would semi keep the truck cool inside. And it would cycle. FINALLY this weekend, I broke out my vacuum pump, and vacuumed it dry. Then I added the specified amount (904 grams) of refrigerant. I actually added more like 1,020 grams, over by ~10%, so it will leak into its prime. That's 3 cans of 340g refrigerant with NO stop leak. During adding the first can, the A/C cycled. Near the beginning of the 2nd can, it quit cycling. And I realized, I had in the past never even added as much to the system as I just did when I added the 2nd can. Then I added a 3rd can, with no concern that I was overcharging it because I finally paid attention to how much refrigerant it calls for, and since it was evacuated, I knew how much was actually in there.
AND NOW ... it snows inside my old Dodge Ram. When over the past 10 years, it has just barely been survivable with the A/C on. For the last few years I thought the compressor was just getting lazy. But no, it was ME being lazy.
So, very soon I'm going to evaculate the LS A/C system, and charge that sucker up. I'll look under the hood tonight and see how much refrigerant it takes. I searched on the nets and I saw that it takes 600 grams for the front only system, and 750 grams for the front and rear system. Does anyone know if that is accurate?
7milesout
On my car, it is easy to hear the A/C cycling because when it goes to ON, the exhaust gives a nice sounding rumble, through the Exhaust Vents. But regardless, it's not supposed to cycle. This a good thread for where to find the Lo and Hi pressure ports (pictures attached in previous replies).
The following is why I want to add to this thread. Those so called "kits," are not the right way to charge your system. They are more or less shot in the dark. It might be OK. It might be still low. I doubt you'd over charge it. I'm not saying don't use them. They're better than doing nothing.
While I was with Hyundai, part of my job was to do A/C audits. I learned the system. It is actually very simple. The main points learned, is that 95% of the time, the root cause of problems with the A/C is low refrigerant, due to a leak. Generally a very small leak. And the only true way to charge your A/C system and know it is charged correctly, is to evacuate the system, then add the specified amount (weight) of refrigerant to the system.
I am an advocate for doing it the right way, with the exception that I am the world's worst procrastinator alive. I have a pickup truck. An old Dodge. They are not known for a robust A/C system. For years I would just throw a can of refrigerant in it, and it would semi keep the truck cool inside. And it would cycle. FINALLY this weekend, I broke out my vacuum pump, and vacuumed it dry. Then I added the specified amount (904 grams) of refrigerant. I actually added more like 1,020 grams, over by ~10%, so it will leak into its prime. That's 3 cans of 340g refrigerant with NO stop leak. During adding the first can, the A/C cycled. Near the beginning of the 2nd can, it quit cycling. And I realized, I had in the past never even added as much to the system as I just did when I added the 2nd can. Then I added a 3rd can, with no concern that I was overcharging it because I finally paid attention to how much refrigerant it calls for, and since it was evacuated, I knew how much was actually in there.
AND NOW ... it snows inside my old Dodge Ram. When over the past 10 years, it has just barely been survivable with the A/C on. For the last few years I thought the compressor was just getting lazy. But no, it was ME being lazy.
So, very soon I'm going to evaculate the LS A/C system, and charge that sucker up. I'll look under the hood tonight and see how much refrigerant it takes. I searched on the nets and I saw that it takes 600 grams for the front only system, and 750 grams for the front and rear system. Does anyone know if that is accurate?
7milesout
#10
Advanced
The charge amount should be labeled under you hood . Here are the OEM numbers ,
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diamente (11-25-22)
#12
Instructor
Delete....
Last edited by Protholl; 06-10-21 at 05:50 PM.
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