Suspension actuator problem
06-15-17, 08:46 AM
#1
Lexus Test Driver
Thread Starter
Suspension actuator problem
Since I've had the car, 10/16, the RR suspension actuator has been a problem, and because it is, the system defaults to maximum damping all the time. Well, I finally removed enough of the rear interior to access the actuator and swapped in a "new" one which tests perfectly.
After removing the old one, testing shows it has a higher than acceptable resistance @ 13.4 Ω. The FSM says nope, gotta be 12.0-12.8. The new used one is 12.8 on the nose.
However, using the Fakestream to validate, it still doesn't function. Same error. Clear the codes, it immediately re-appears. I also cannot test any of them as Fakestream says the required conditions are not met (engine idling, not moving (duh), more than 8.5V). Also, the detail on what the RR controller returns as a value is 17. All the others, which are at max firmness, indicate '9'. I've turned the actuator's, um, actuator, and nothing changes. It's as if it isn't connected.
The FSM does not say what the computer side of this system should be in either volts or ohms, so I tested a good corner.
Sure enough, the RF corner reads 5.8V on all pins ('cept the middle one, being ground and all). The original actuator also reads 13.4 Ω, so I'm putting my old one back.
The RR has no voltage, no continuity, so does it look like I'm in for a suspension controller/computer? I'm going OEM, and if any of y'all who've gone with aftermarket and want to get rid of your old one, lemme know. Otherwise, I'm hitting up ebay and hoping for the best.
There is a chance that corner has a loose or damaged connection at the computer, so first, I'm digging into that, but not today, I've had it with the heat/humidity. There is also a remote possibility it was hit, somewhere, and those wires are now broken. However, they're not shorted, so I doubt this. Plus, the car is immaculate save for the minor hail damage (welcome to Texas).
I definitely want to keep the adjustable suspension, or else, yeah, I'd consider the coilover thing. Actually, I'm somewhat tempted to disconnect all the controllers, set them to the middle, and be done with it.
I've been mulling this over for a solid day, and I can't think of anything else. Ideas?
edit: I bit the bullet and bought a used suspension controller off a wrecked '07 for $90. I'll get back to this next week. Until then, I'll be 1998 Grand Cherokee 5.9L-ing it to work.
After removing the old one, testing shows it has a higher than acceptable resistance @ 13.4 Ω. The FSM says nope, gotta be 12.0-12.8. The new used one is 12.8 on the nose.
However, using the Fakestream to validate, it still doesn't function. Same error. Clear the codes, it immediately re-appears. I also cannot test any of them as Fakestream says the required conditions are not met (engine idling, not moving (duh), more than 8.5V). Also, the detail on what the RR controller returns as a value is 17. All the others, which are at max firmness, indicate '9'. I've turned the actuator's, um, actuator, and nothing changes. It's as if it isn't connected.
The FSM does not say what the computer side of this system should be in either volts or ohms, so I tested a good corner.
Sure enough, the RF corner reads 5.8V on all pins ('cept the middle one, being ground and all). The original actuator also reads 13.4 Ω, so I'm putting my old one back.
The RR has no voltage, no continuity, so does it look like I'm in for a suspension controller/computer? I'm going OEM, and if any of y'all who've gone with aftermarket and want to get rid of your old one, lemme know. Otherwise, I'm hitting up ebay and hoping for the best.
There is a chance that corner has a loose or damaged connection at the computer, so first, I'm digging into that, but not today, I've had it with the heat/humidity. There is also a remote possibility it was hit, somewhere, and those wires are now broken. However, they're not shorted, so I doubt this. Plus, the car is immaculate save for the minor hail damage (welcome to Texas).
I definitely want to keep the adjustable suspension, or else, yeah, I'd consider the coilover thing. Actually, I'm somewhat tempted to disconnect all the controllers, set them to the middle, and be done with it.
I've been mulling this over for a solid day, and I can't think of anything else. Ideas?
edit: I bit the bullet and bought a used suspension controller off a wrecked '07 for $90. I'll get back to this next week. Until then, I'll be 1998 Grand Cherokee 5.9L-ing it to work.
Last edited by mckellyb; 06-15-17 at 08:43 PM.
06-18-17, 12:22 AM
#3
The main downside of owning any vehicle with air suspension is it can be expensive to repair. Many convert and that can create other problems. Finding a LS or any other vehicle with a non air suspension has its advantages.
06-18-17, 07:07 AM
#4
Lexus Test Driver
Thread Starter
Yes, conventional suspension definitely has certain advantages, but once you've had a well-designed air system, it's difficult to go back to steel springs.
06-19-17, 07:50 AM
#5
Lexus Test Driver
This has to be the only thing that sticks around in the back of my head every time I drive. "When is it gonna break?" And then the question is, do I fix the stock suspension or spend a little more and go with something quality like an AirRunner kit? The AWD and lack of aftermarket support concern me a bit, but nothing like the suspension.
I too love being able to select ride firmness on the fly and change the characteristics of the vehicle, but might be looking for a 13+ RWD L with coil suspension in the near future just for peace of mind.
I too love being able to select ride firmness on the fly and change the characteristics of the vehicle, but might be looking for a 13+ RWD L with coil suspension in the near future just for peace of mind.
06-19-17, 09:24 AM
#6
Lexus Test Driver
Thread Starter
To be fair, I'd been pre-conditioned by owning an '05 Cadillac STS with Magneride immediately before the LS.
Drop-shipped from Delphi in Michigan, via an insider, each rear strut was $600. It's known both to last about 100K miles. Inexplicably, the front ones seem to never require attention.
That hurt, so where I am, now, isn't too bad. I've even looked at aftermarket replacements, just in case...$600-$700. I can live with that if it's a one time kinda thing.
Drop-shipped from Delphi in Michigan, via an insider, each rear strut was $600. It's known both to last about 100K miles. Inexplicably, the front ones seem to never require attention.
That hurt, so where I am, now, isn't too bad. I've even looked at aftermarket replacements, just in case...$600-$700. I can live with that if it's a one time kinda thing.
06-20-17, 01:47 AM
#7
This has to be the only thing that sticks around in the back of my head every time I drive. "When is it gonna break?" And then the question is, do I fix the stock suspension or spend a little more and go with something quality like an AirRunner kit? The AWD and lack of aftermarket support concern me a bit, but nothing like the suspension.
I too love being able to select ride firmness on the fly and change the characteristics of the vehicle, but might be looking for a 13+ RWD L with coil suspension in the near future just for peace of mind.
I too love being able to select ride firmness on the fly and change the characteristics of the vehicle, but might be looking for a 13+ RWD L with coil suspension in the near future just for peace of mind.
Its not so much the cost of the replacement strut, its the complexity of the stupid system that makes me so worried. (compressor, lines, sensors, struts, bags , computers etc...)
I just test drove a fairly ragged 07 460 SWB with spring suspension , it has twice the mileage of mine and uncared for and to be honest it drives very good, maybe even better then mine.
I made an offer and hes accepted...the ball is now back in my court and I have to make a decision by tomorrow
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