Bogging Down On Acceleration...
Instructor
Joined: Nov 2014
Posts: 758
Likes: 26
From: INACTIVE
Yes, I agree there probably are multiple variables involved. Hopefully, switching to TGMO synthetic and if needed an ECM "refresh" will solve the problem for most. I am still wondering whether this issue is restricted to some model years, say 2012 and older. In which case, there could be a connection to the engine management software that may have been resolved in 2013+ cars.
Racer
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 1,472
Likes: 154
From: Kansas
Update. No issues since last oil change on Thursday. Did about 200 plus miles both city and highway.
The previous owner used 0-20 syn oil i used Amsoil 0-20 in Feb had the issue. Used 0-20 Pennzoil and no issue.
The debate continues.
The previous owner used 0-20 syn oil i used Amsoil 0-20 in Feb had the issue. Used 0-20 Pennzoil and no issue.
The debate continues.
Driver
Joined: Jul 2015
Posts: 109
Likes: 1
From: MA
Just an fyi, I just had to add a quart of oil after putting on around 5000 miles. Before I added I had no hesitation, after adding the quart I had hesitation for a couple of days before it went away ?????????
Advanced
Joined: Nov 2014
Posts: 659
Likes: 109
From: Georgia
Dr. Jekyll - Does your 2014 still have low miles? My 2010 has only 26k miles. I think partly I haven't had this problem because of the low miles.
The theory about adding petroleum oil instead of synthetic ... well, that's the most logical theory I've read yet. My first oil change I ran NON synthetic, but I had no issues. I think the lack of problems was in part due to low miles.
A knock sensor must have to be a very sensitive device. The addition of new oil could have a substantial difference in transmitting ... sound (I guess is the best way to describe it) versus the dirty oil removed. As "dirt" accumulates in oil, it's ability to transmit sound logically should diminish. And two, the difference between synthetic oil and petroleum may have a difference in the ability to transmit sound. That makes more sense than anything I've read so far.
The theory about adding petroleum oil instead of synthetic ... well, that's the most logical theory I've read yet. My first oil change I ran NON synthetic, but I had no issues. I think the lack of problems was in part due to low miles.
A knock sensor must have to be a very sensitive device. The addition of new oil could have a substantial difference in transmitting ... sound (I guess is the best way to describe it) versus the dirty oil removed. As "dirt" accumulates in oil, it's ability to transmit sound logically should diminish. And two, the difference between synthetic oil and petroleum may have a difference in the ability to transmit sound. That makes more sense than anything I've read so far.
Pit Crew
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 102
Likes: 6
From: TX
Sorry buddy... some of us just gave up :-(
I worked with RoadFrog and some others for about 18 months to troubleshoot my '07 with these same symptoms. We tried cleaners and different oils and voodoo/prayers but no snake oil fixed it and Lexus didn't have a solution.
When it came down to it, I finally convinced myself (using bluetooth engine monitoring software etc. that showed the engine was retarding ignition timing massively under certain conditions) that the engine had the TSIB-documented valve guide issue. That TSIB basically says there's play/rattle/noise in some valves and the engine knock sensor tells the computer to pull timing erroneously. The fix is to replace the cylinder heads, which costs $10k +. Having no warranty, I weighed that against the cost of getting a newer model that doesn't exhibit that problem and I purchased a 2011 LS. I love my new 2011, but I sure wish I had purchased a warranty on that '07 - it would have saved me a ton of money (bushings, motor mount, this engine crap etc.) :-(
When it came down to it, I finally convinced myself (using bluetooth engine monitoring software etc. that showed the engine was retarding ignition timing massively under certain conditions) that the engine had the TSIB-documented valve guide issue. That TSIB basically says there's play/rattle/noise in some valves and the engine knock sensor tells the computer to pull timing erroneously. The fix is to replace the cylinder heads, which costs $10k +. Having no warranty, I weighed that against the cost of getting a newer model that doesn't exhibit that problem and I purchased a 2011 LS. I love my new 2011, but I sure wish I had purchased a warranty on that '07 - it would have saved me a ton of money (bushings, motor mount, this engine crap etc.) :-(
ClubLexus Stories
Celebrating Lexus & Toyota from Around the Globe
8 Tips for Improving Your Hybrid or Plug-in Hybrid's Efficiency!
Michael S. Palmer
10 Best Lexus Models No One Remembers
Joe Kucinski
TRD Off-Road Premium: Best 2026 4Runner, Except This One Thing
Michael S. Palmer
Top 10 Lexus & Toyotas to Drive Before You Die!
Joe Kucinski
Top 10 Lexus/Toyotas With The LEAST 5-Year Depreciation
Joe Kucinski
Lexus LC500 Convertible Auction: A Preview of Rising Values?
Brett Foote
GX 550 vs TX 550: Best 3-Row Luxury Lexus Family Hauler
Michael S. Palmer
9 Best Lexus Models You Can Buy for Half Price (And 1 You Shouldn't!)
Joe Kucinski
2026 Lexus NX Buyer's Guide: Models, Features, Prices & More!
Brett Foote
Pole Position
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 257
Likes: 5
From: NY
I worked with RoadFrog and some others for about 18 months to troubleshoot my '07 with these same symptoms. We tried cleaners and different oils and voodoo/prayers but no snake oil fixed it and Lexus didn't have a solution.
When it came down to it, I finally convinced myself (using bluetooth engine monitoring software etc. that showed the engine was retarding ignition timing massively under certain conditions) that the engine had the TSIB-documented valve guide issue. That TSIB basically says there's play/rattle/noise in some valves and the engine knock sensor tells the computer to pull timing erroneously. The fix is to replace the cylinder heads, which costs $10k +. Having no warranty, I weighed that against the cost of getting a newer model that doesn't exhibit that problem and I purchased a 2011 LS. I love my new 2011, but I sure wish I had purchased a warranty on that '07 - it would have saved me a ton of money (bushings, motor mount, this engine crap etc.) :-(
When it came down to it, I finally convinced myself (using bluetooth engine monitoring software etc. that showed the engine was retarding ignition timing massively under certain conditions) that the engine had the TSIB-documented valve guide issue. That TSIB basically says there's play/rattle/noise in some valves and the engine knock sensor tells the computer to pull timing erroneously. The fix is to replace the cylinder heads, which costs $10k +. Having no warranty, I weighed that against the cost of getting a newer model that doesn't exhibit that problem and I purchased a 2011 LS. I love my new 2011, but I sure wish I had purchased a warranty on that '07 - it would have saved me a ton of money (bushings, motor mount, this engine crap etc.) :-(
Lexus Fanatic
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 5,371
Likes: 526
From: BC Canada
Driver School Candidate
Joined: Oct 2014
Posts: 15
Likes: 3
From: Texas
I just took my LS460 2007in for bogging down. They recalibrate ECU and no bogging issues for the last 30 miles on the way home from dealer. I do seem to hear a "roaring" noise when I accelerate. Strange
Instructor
Joined: Nov 2014
Posts: 758
Likes: 26
From: INACTIVE
I worked with RoadFrog and some others for about 18 months to troubleshoot my '07 with these same symptoms. We tried cleaners and different oils and voodoo/prayers but no snake oil fixed it and Lexus didn't have a solution.
When it came down to it, I finally convinced myself (using bluetooth engine monitoring software etc. that showed the engine was retarding ignition timing massively under certain conditions) that the engine had the TSIB-documented valve guide issue. That TSIB basically says there's play/rattle/noise in some valves and the engine knock sensor tells the computer to pull timing erroneously. The fix is to replace the cylinder heads, which costs $10k +. Having no warranty, I weighed that against the cost of getting a newer model that doesn't exhibit that problem and I purchased a 2011 LS. I love my new 2011, but I sure wish I had purchased a warranty on that '07 - it would have saved me a ton of money (bushings, motor mount, this engine crap etc.) :-(
When it came down to it, I finally convinced myself (using bluetooth engine monitoring software etc. that showed the engine was retarding ignition timing massively under certain conditions) that the engine had the TSIB-documented valve guide issue. That TSIB basically says there's play/rattle/noise in some valves and the engine knock sensor tells the computer to pull timing erroneously. The fix is to replace the cylinder heads, which costs $10k +. Having no warranty, I weighed that against the cost of getting a newer model that doesn't exhibit that problem and I purchased a 2011 LS. I love my new 2011, but I sure wish I had purchased a warranty on that '07 - it would have saved me a ton of money (bushings, motor mount, this engine crap etc.) :-(
https://www.yourmechanic.com/article...y-knock-sensor
Engine oil and knock discussion/that fresh new oil is noisy
http://forums.fourtitude.com/showthread.php?2124631-Correlation-between-knock-voltages-and-viscosity-of-motor-oil
Last edited by superdenso; Sep 22, 2016 at 05:52 PM.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
tommyLS460
LS - 4th Gen (2007-2017)
12
Sep 1, 2014 05:33 PM