LS460 Control Arm DIY (upper and lower) with Torque Spec's
09-10-17, 04:42 PM
#16
Driver School Candidate
I just did this job and it cost me about 700 so far that's replacing most of the arms and ball joint lower. But I did my brake flush with the car on which was a mistake my brake and vsa light came on with the brake malfunction warning.. I was thinking of flushing it manually with the car off? What your opinion on it
09-14-17, 06:44 AM
#18
Lexus Fanatic
Yep....Techstream. This is why I wont do this service myself. That and the transmission fluid change. There are those that say you can do it without TS, but I'm still not convinced and this thread is one reason why.
09-16-17, 09:02 AM
#19
Driver School Candidate
I just tried to use the links to get torgue specs for reassembly with no luck. I followed the instructions and even gave credit card info for a two day subscribtion but when I went to log in it just said that my account was blocked. Can anyone out there help me get the torgue specs to put my car back together?
10-07-19, 07:31 AM
#20
I wanted to add some feedback on this great thread. There are some additional options to do this work:
- It is possible to do this work without removing the caliper, the rotor or even completely removing the steering knuckle assembly. If you are willing to work around the brake parts it's not really a huge issue if you choose to go that way. In terms of sequencing the work, I started with the front LCA, then the rear LCA. I then reinstalled both new lower controls arms at which point I switched to work on the upper control arms including strut removal. By using jack stands and bungy cords, I was able to keep the steering knuckle more or less in its original place through the process. I did turn the steering wheel back and forth a couple of times to gain better access to front/rear mount points.
- I was able tor remove the rear lower control arm where it mounts to the steering knuckle at the ball joint by using a an adjustable 2 arm puller (similar to a pitman arm puller but the arms have a pivot joint in them). This works best once the LCA is detached from the body side first and can be slightly angled toward the rear of the car. I used something like this with success:
- The hardest step was disconnecting the front LCA ball joint from the steering knuckle. I was unable to get any of my tools to mount properly on the steering knuckle to pop it out. Instead I used a 4lb hammer and knocked against the aluminum side of the knuckle where the LCA bolt goes through it, and I also knocked upward against the LCA bolt with the nut loosened and reinstalled in reverse. Be sure to wear ear protection as the aluminum tends to "ring" very loudly and it seemed loud enough to potentially cause hearing damage.
- The upper control arms and their mounts are best removed with the strut out.
- I did not remove the steering tie rod, to clear the rubber bellows on the body side, turn the steering wheel to the other side of the vehicle AND slide the little clip down and push the bellows up out of the way to allow the bolt to push through.
- Aligning the front lower control arm bushing with the holes on the body side of the vehicle took some time to accomplish, the bolt is a tight fit and would not go into the hole until I had it in place. I used a hammer and screw driver to knock and push the LCA bushing into place.
- As previously noted, do not tighten the body side control arm bolts or the strut to control arm bolt until the vehicle is sitting back on its wheels. However, do tighten to proper torque specs the LCA to steering knuckle nuts, the sway bar link and the upper control arm mounts before lowering the vehicle.
- Before jacking the vehicle up, be sure to use paint or a marker to provide alignment marks that notate the control arm mounting points on the vehicle to the original control arm positions and then transfer the marks to the new control arms so you have a clear sense of where everything should be sitting after reinstallation and prior to final tightening/torquing.
- One last thing, this Harbor Freight puller tool does not fit on either of the LCA ball joint fittings, don't waste any money on this tool since it won't help you: https://www.harborfreight.com/3-4-qu...tor-99849.html
I hope this helps.
- It is possible to do this work without removing the caliper, the rotor or even completely removing the steering knuckle assembly. If you are willing to work around the brake parts it's not really a huge issue if you choose to go that way. In terms of sequencing the work, I started with the front LCA, then the rear LCA. I then reinstalled both new lower controls arms at which point I switched to work on the upper control arms including strut removal. By using jack stands and bungy cords, I was able to keep the steering knuckle more or less in its original place through the process. I did turn the steering wheel back and forth a couple of times to gain better access to front/rear mount points.
- I was able tor remove the rear lower control arm where it mounts to the steering knuckle at the ball joint by using a an adjustable 2 arm puller (similar to a pitman arm puller but the arms have a pivot joint in them). This works best once the LCA is detached from the body side first and can be slightly angled toward the rear of the car. I used something like this with success:
- The hardest step was disconnecting the front LCA ball joint from the steering knuckle. I was unable to get any of my tools to mount properly on the steering knuckle to pop it out. Instead I used a 4lb hammer and knocked against the aluminum side of the knuckle where the LCA bolt goes through it, and I also knocked upward against the LCA bolt with the nut loosened and reinstalled in reverse. Be sure to wear ear protection as the aluminum tends to "ring" very loudly and it seemed loud enough to potentially cause hearing damage.
- The upper control arms and their mounts are best removed with the strut out.
- I did not remove the steering tie rod, to clear the rubber bellows on the body side, turn the steering wheel to the other side of the vehicle AND slide the little clip down and push the bellows up out of the way to allow the bolt to push through.
- Aligning the front lower control arm bushing with the holes on the body side of the vehicle took some time to accomplish, the bolt is a tight fit and would not go into the hole until I had it in place. I used a hammer and screw driver to knock and push the LCA bushing into place.
- As previously noted, do not tighten the body side control arm bolts or the strut to control arm bolt until the vehicle is sitting back on its wheels. However, do tighten to proper torque specs the LCA to steering knuckle nuts, the sway bar link and the upper control arm mounts before lowering the vehicle.
- Before jacking the vehicle up, be sure to use paint or a marker to provide alignment marks that notate the control arm mounting points on the vehicle to the original control arm positions and then transfer the marks to the new control arms so you have a clear sense of where everything should be sitting after reinstallation and prior to final tightening/torquing.
- One last thing, this Harbor Freight puller tool does not fit on either of the LCA ball joint fittings, don't waste any money on this tool since it won't help you: https://www.harborfreight.com/3-4-qu...tor-99849.html
I hope this helps.
Last edited by abs; 10-07-19 at 07:45 AM.
The following users liked this post:
sha4000 (10-08-19)
10-08-19, 11:49 AM
#21
I wanted to add some feedback on this great thread. There are some additional options to do this work:
- It is possible to do this work without removing the caliper, the rotor or even completely removing the steering knuckle assembly. If you are willing to work around the brake parts it's not really a huge issue if you choose to go that way. In terms of sequencing the work, I started with the front LCA, then the rear LCA. I then reinstalled both new lower controls arms at which point I switched to work on the upper control arms including strut removal. By using jack stands and bungy cords, I was able to keep the steering knuckle more or less in its original place through the process. I did turn the steering wheel back and forth a couple of times to gain better access to front/rear mount points.
- I was able tor remove the rear lower control arm where it mounts to the steering knuckle at the ball joint by using a an adjustable 2 arm puller (similar to a pitman arm puller but the arms have a pivot joint in them). This works best once the LCA is detached from the body side first and can be slightly angled toward the rear of the car. I used something like this with success: https://www.amazon.com/Performance-T...0458196&sr=8-6
- The hardest step was disconnecting the front LCA ball joint from the steering knuckle. I was unable to get any of my tools to mount properly on the steering knuckle to pop it out. Instead I used a 4lb hammer and knocked against the aluminum side of the knuckle where the LCA bolt goes through it, and I also knocked upward against the LCA bolt with the nut loosened and reinstalled in reverse. Be sure to wear ear protection as the aluminum tends to "ring" very loudly and it seemed loud enough to potentially cause hearing damage.
- The upper control arms and their mounts are best removed with the strut out.
- I did not remove the steering tie rod, to clear the rubber bellows on the body side, turn the steering wheel to the other side of the vehicle AND slide the little clip down and push the bellows up out of the way to allow the bolt to push through.
- Aligning the front lower control arm bushing with the holes on the body side of the vehicle took some time to accomplish, the bolt is a tight fit and would not go into the hole until I had it in place. I used a hammer and screw driver to knock and push the LCA bushing into place.
- As previously noted, do not tighten the body side control arm bolts or the strut to control arm bolt until the vehicle is sitting back on its wheels. However, do tighten to proper torque specs the LCA to steering knuckle nuts, the sway bar link and the upper control arm mounts before lowering the vehicle.
- Before jacking the vehicle up, be sure to use paint or a marker to provide alignment marks that notate the control arm mounting points on the vehicle to the original control arm positions and then transfer the marks to the new control arms so you have a clear sense of where everything should be sitting after reinstallation and prior to final tightening/torquing.
- One last thing, this Harbor Freight puller tool does not fit on either of the LCA ball joint fittings, don't waste any money on this tool since it won't help you: https://www.harborfreight.com/3-4-qu...tor-99849.html
I hope this helps.
- It is possible to do this work without removing the caliper, the rotor or even completely removing the steering knuckle assembly. If you are willing to work around the brake parts it's not really a huge issue if you choose to go that way. In terms of sequencing the work, I started with the front LCA, then the rear LCA. I then reinstalled both new lower controls arms at which point I switched to work on the upper control arms including strut removal. By using jack stands and bungy cords, I was able to keep the steering knuckle more or less in its original place through the process. I did turn the steering wheel back and forth a couple of times to gain better access to front/rear mount points.
- I was able tor remove the rear lower control arm where it mounts to the steering knuckle at the ball joint by using a an adjustable 2 arm puller (similar to a pitman arm puller but the arms have a pivot joint in them). This works best once the LCA is detached from the body side first and can be slightly angled toward the rear of the car. I used something like this with success: https://www.amazon.com/Performance-T...0458196&sr=8-6
- The hardest step was disconnecting the front LCA ball joint from the steering knuckle. I was unable to get any of my tools to mount properly on the steering knuckle to pop it out. Instead I used a 4lb hammer and knocked against the aluminum side of the knuckle where the LCA bolt goes through it, and I also knocked upward against the LCA bolt with the nut loosened and reinstalled in reverse. Be sure to wear ear protection as the aluminum tends to "ring" very loudly and it seemed loud enough to potentially cause hearing damage.
- The upper control arms and their mounts are best removed with the strut out.
- I did not remove the steering tie rod, to clear the rubber bellows on the body side, turn the steering wheel to the other side of the vehicle AND slide the little clip down and push the bellows up out of the way to allow the bolt to push through.
- Aligning the front lower control arm bushing with the holes on the body side of the vehicle took some time to accomplish, the bolt is a tight fit and would not go into the hole until I had it in place. I used a hammer and screw driver to knock and push the LCA bushing into place.
- As previously noted, do not tighten the body side control arm bolts or the strut to control arm bolt until the vehicle is sitting back on its wheels. However, do tighten to proper torque specs the LCA to steering knuckle nuts, the sway bar link and the upper control arm mounts before lowering the vehicle.
- Before jacking the vehicle up, be sure to use paint or a marker to provide alignment marks that notate the control arm mounting points on the vehicle to the original control arm positions and then transfer the marks to the new control arms so you have a clear sense of where everything should be sitting after reinstallation and prior to final tightening/torquing.
- One last thing, this Harbor Freight puller tool does not fit on either of the LCA ball joint fittings, don't waste any money on this tool since it won't help you: https://www.harborfreight.com/3-4-qu...tor-99849.html
I hope this helps.
10-09-19, 08:07 PM
#22
Thanks for the post, I was going to do both front LCA last week but stopped in my tracks when the puller I have did not fit the balljoint side. I was also trying to figure out if I could get the lowers out without removing the calipers and rotors. Was it as simple as removing the bolts and disconnecting the ball joints?
Yes, that is exactly right. For both the front and rear control arms, you would first remove the lower control arms from the body side mounts and then detach the other end from the ball joints. I would completely remove the forward lower control arm before working on the rear lower control arm. As I mentioned above, the forward LCA can be separated from the ball joint by hammering on the aluminum side of the steering knuckle where the ball joint bolt goes through and also hammering upward against the bottom of the ball joint bolt with the nut installed upside down to provide a larger hammering area as well as reinforcement for the ball joint stud. The rear control arm comes apart with a two arm puller similar to the one I linked above.
As an aside, the Lexus shop manual calls for a special ball joint separator tool which is designed to work with only one "leg." This is really the only way to use a puller on the front LCA ball joint. For the rear ball joint, the one that is pressed into the steering knuckle and to which the rear LCA is attached, the two leg puller works well.
I hope this helps.
The following users liked this post:
sha4000 (10-11-19)
10-11-19, 11:45 PM
#23
sha4000:
Yes, that is exactly right. For both the front and rear control arms, you would first remove the lower control arms from the body side mounts and then detach the other end from the ball joints. I would completely remove the forward lower control arm before working on the rear lower control arm. As I mentioned above, the forward LCA can be separated from the ball joint by hammering on the aluminum side of the steering knuckle where the ball joint bolt goes through and also hammering upward against the bottom of the ball joint bolt with the nut installed upside down to provide a larger hammering area as well as reinforcement for the ball joint stud. The rear control arm comes apart with a two arm puller similar to the one I linked above.
As an aside, the Lexus shop manual calls for a special ball joint separator tool which is designed to work with only one "leg." This is really the only way to use a puller on the front LCA ball joint. For the rear ball joint, the one that is pressed into the steering knuckle and to which the rear LCA is attached, the two leg puller works well.
I hope this helps.
Yes, that is exactly right. For both the front and rear control arms, you would first remove the lower control arms from the body side mounts and then detach the other end from the ball joints. I would completely remove the forward lower control arm before working on the rear lower control arm. As I mentioned above, the forward LCA can be separated from the ball joint by hammering on the aluminum side of the steering knuckle where the ball joint bolt goes through and also hammering upward against the bottom of the ball joint bolt with the nut installed upside down to provide a larger hammering area as well as reinforcement for the ball joint stud. The rear control arm comes apart with a two arm puller similar to the one I linked above.
As an aside, the Lexus shop manual calls for a special ball joint separator tool which is designed to work with only one "leg." This is really the only way to use a puller on the front LCA ball joint. For the rear ball joint, the one that is pressed into the steering knuckle and to which the rear LCA is attached, the two leg puller works well.
I hope this helps.
04-23-23, 02:28 PM
#25
Experience w ebay purchased ball joints for 2011 LS460 base RWD
I have a 2011 LS 460 base RWD with 120000 and Ive replaced everything else including on the front end including the rear lower arms for a second time. Only thing left is the ball joints. The problem is no one want to mess with the knuckle assembly without me guaranteeing their retirement. Lexus quoted $7000 for everything in front of the gas pedal. My feeling is, leaving the 15 other connections on the knuckle and pressing in a ball joint will be lower risk that changing out the knuckle assembly.
Does anyone have any experience using the ebay after market ball joint for a 2011 LS 460 base RWD
https://www.ebay.com/itm/17393574752...7525&recoPos=1
These would be press out/press in of the rear lower control arm ball joints instead of replacing the entire knuckle assembly.
Thoughts?
Thanks
Does anyone have any experience using the ebay after market ball joint for a 2011 LS 460 base RWD
https://www.ebay.com/itm/17393574752...7525&recoPos=1
These would be press out/press in of the rear lower control arm ball joints instead of replacing the entire knuckle assembly.
Thoughts?
Thanks
05-16-23, 07:36 AM
#26
Neeed desperate help
Hi, i am an owner of a 07 ls460 rwd and loosinggg my mind due to front suspension noise.In the last 3 months, i have changed almost all the arms and lastly this weekend changed the air strut (oem from dubai) and still the noise is there.It is a ratlling noise.Does any one know a good mechanic in dallas texas area? I am so annoyed with this as i spent alot of money but cannot enjoy the drive.Please let me know. Tire is not moving vertically or horizontally when i lift the car.
*Lower Control Arm Service: The course you take will depend on your skill level and your tolerance for downtime.
**The following list is a guide and does not warranty success, use caution, check your torque settings 2x or 3x and replace all locking pins.
1. Chock rear wheels
2. Raise vehicle, put front end on jack-stands/readjust chocks
3. Raise Hood
4. Remove engine room covers that impede access to battery and shock mount bolts
5. Disconnect battery
6. Remove plastic skid plate from under carriage
7. Disconnect wheel speed sensors and brake wear indicator and remove orientation brackets from forward control arm (tuck wiring into space above metal skid plate)
8. Remove front caliper, use a hanger to suspend it from the front shock absorber
9. Disconnect brake line stay from hub/knuckle
10. Remove brake rotor and pads; place brake hardware on clean surface and mark to record side of car and/or orientation for rotor and pads
11. Remove brake dust shields
12. Disconnect Sway Bar link (17mm wrench and 6mm hex allen)
13. Remove securing pins from castle nuts (5 per side). Loosen all suspension nuts and remove nuts from lower control arms on body/frame side. Further, loosen tie rod, 2 lower control arm ball joints, and loosen upper control arm brackets and *****) including ball joint nuts (14mm, 17mm, and 19mm nuts). Leave the upper control arms securely fixed in their brackets
14. Remove (5) castle nuts (turn upside down) and tread them back on ball joints until flush with stud top.
15. Remove shock absorber bottom bolt.
16. Separate tie rod from knuckle
17. Reconnect battery, turn on vehicle but do not start, turn steering wheel completely to opposite side you are working (disconnect battery
18. Separate upper ball joints from knuckle seat but do not completely remove. Remove lower control arm to body bolts, then loosen upper castle nuts to free the knuckle (take care not to drop knuckle and control arm assembly.
19. Place a thick towel on solid surface and invert control arm assembly.
20. Use a 5 lbs. hammer to deal short (6inch drop) medium blows to lower forward control arm ball (with rethreaded inverted castle nut still installed until free.
21. Once free, turn knuckle right side up and place ball joint puller on lower rear control arm. Torque ball joint puller but do not try to use this force to separate the control arm (approx. 50lbs).
22. Slowly twist lower rear control arm taking care not to damage boot or wheel bearing. Until flat end of control arm can be wacked with the 5lbs. hammer without interfering with side of knuckle or wheel bearing. Deliver a short 6 inch striking-moderate blow to flat anvil head of the lower control arm. Repeat blows if necessary.
23. Remove rear upper control arm bracket and hang caliper from front upper control arm bracket.
24. Remove shock absorber mounting bolts in engine bay.
25. Hang caliper from a vacant hole where rear bracket was stationed.
26. Remove forward upper control arm bracket.
***Torque upper control arms to spec. in bracket prior to installation. Once upper control arm brackets are installed on car body the arm bolts are obstructed.
****Either rebuild your control arms with new bushings or purchase new units.
*****Inspect all components for damage (i.e. bends from damage, ball joint free play and boot condition) including the wheel bearing, the steering knuckle and it's ball joint.
REASSEMBLE:
FRONT UPPER SUSPENSION ARM
https://techinfo.toyota.com/t3Portal...=1470224721772
FRONT LOWER SUSPENSION ARM: INSTALLATION
https://techinfo.toyota.com/t3Portal...=1470225005943
FRONT KNUCKLE
https://techinfo.toyota.com/t3Portal...=1470961414410
FRONT BRAKE
https://techinfo.toyota.com/t3Portal...=1470225208121
Parts list (additions*):
1. ADS Bushing kit (only used upper bushings and lower rearward bushings). The ball joints for the lower forward arm are not easily removed w/o slight deform. Follow the above instructions to save a lot of time and money (See step #19)
2. Moog Lower Forward Arms*
3. Knuckles (oem left and right)-the ball boots appeared brittle*
4. Moog Sway Bar links*
PICTURES COMING SOON!!!
Tools that will make the process easier:
12-ton press for control arm bushing removal and install
Ball joint remover that will be gentle on your boots-
Rent from local parts store (typically a free rental):
https://jet.com/product/detail/5d62ff1eef9b405f867f3f1955a0df28?jcmp=pla:ggl:b_nj_dur_gen_vehicles_parts_a2_b2:vehicle_parts_accessories_vehicle_maintenance_care_decor_vehicle_repair_specialty_tools_a2_other:na:PLA_627520716_31309448362_aud-155003204480
la-167598260940:na:na:na:2&code=PLA15&gclid=CND9lezi184CFYxlNwodeScNyg&gclsrc=ds
Ball Joint Removal (tip):
Loosen the nut, then invert it and replace on the ball until the wide bottom portion of castle nut is flush with the ball thread. This will help improve leverage of ball removal tool and save the ball threads.
Sway bar link removal (tip):
With both wheels elevated there is no pressure on the sway bar. Insert 6mm hex tool as far as possible in sway bolt to keep bolt from spinning and then lightly tap with a hammer; loosen securing nuts.
+Differences noted between the front suspension geometry a.2007 and b.2009
a. http://www.lexussouthatlantaparts.co...sembly=1174464
b. http://www.lexussouthatlantaparts.co...sembly=1174470
**The following list is a guide and does not warranty success, use caution, check your torque settings 2x or 3x and replace all locking pins.
1. Chock rear wheels
2. Raise vehicle, put front end on jack-stands/readjust chocks
3. Raise Hood
4. Remove engine room covers that impede access to battery and shock mount bolts
5. Disconnect battery
6. Remove plastic skid plate from under carriage
7. Disconnect wheel speed sensors and brake wear indicator and remove orientation brackets from forward control arm (tuck wiring into space above metal skid plate)
8. Remove front caliper, use a hanger to suspend it from the front shock absorber
9. Disconnect brake line stay from hub/knuckle
10. Remove brake rotor and pads; place brake hardware on clean surface and mark to record side of car and/or orientation for rotor and pads
11. Remove brake dust shields
12. Disconnect Sway Bar link (17mm wrench and 6mm hex allen)
13. Remove securing pins from castle nuts (5 per side). Loosen all suspension nuts and remove nuts from lower control arms on body/frame side. Further, loosen tie rod, 2 lower control arm ball joints, and loosen upper control arm brackets and *****) including ball joint nuts (14mm, 17mm, and 19mm nuts). Leave the upper control arms securely fixed in their brackets
14. Remove (5) castle nuts (turn upside down) and tread them back on ball joints until flush with stud top.
15. Remove shock absorber bottom bolt.
16. Separate tie rod from knuckle
17. Reconnect battery, turn on vehicle but do not start, turn steering wheel completely to opposite side you are working (disconnect battery
18. Separate upper ball joints from knuckle seat but do not completely remove. Remove lower control arm to body bolts, then loosen upper castle nuts to free the knuckle (take care not to drop knuckle and control arm assembly.
19. Place a thick towel on solid surface and invert control arm assembly.
20. Use a 5 lbs. hammer to deal short (6inch drop) medium blows to lower forward control arm ball (with rethreaded inverted castle nut still installed until free.
21. Once free, turn knuckle right side up and place ball joint puller on lower rear control arm. Torque ball joint puller but do not try to use this force to separate the control arm (approx. 50lbs).
22. Slowly twist lower rear control arm taking care not to damage boot or wheel bearing. Until flat end of control arm can be wacked with the 5lbs. hammer without interfering with side of knuckle or wheel bearing. Deliver a short 6 inch striking-moderate blow to flat anvil head of the lower control arm. Repeat blows if necessary.
23. Remove rear upper control arm bracket and hang caliper from front upper control arm bracket.
24. Remove shock absorber mounting bolts in engine bay.
25. Hang caliper from a vacant hole where rear bracket was stationed.
26. Remove forward upper control arm bracket.
***Torque upper control arms to spec. in bracket prior to installation. Once upper control arm brackets are installed on car body the arm bolts are obstructed.
****Either rebuild your control arms with new bushings or purchase new units.
*****Inspect all components for damage (i.e. bends from damage, ball joint free play and boot condition) including the wheel bearing, the steering knuckle and it's ball joint.
REASSEMBLE:
FRONT UPPER SUSPENSION ARM
https://techinfo.toyota.com/t3Portal...=1470224721772
FRONT LOWER SUSPENSION ARM: INSTALLATION
https://techinfo.toyota.com/t3Portal...=1470225005943
FRONT KNUCKLE
https://techinfo.toyota.com/t3Portal...=1470961414410
FRONT BRAKE
https://techinfo.toyota.com/t3Portal...=1470225208121
Parts list (additions*):
1. ADS Bushing kit (only used upper bushings and lower rearward bushings). The ball joints for the lower forward arm are not easily removed w/o slight deform. Follow the above instructions to save a lot of time and money (See step #19)
2. Moog Lower Forward Arms*
3. Knuckles (oem left and right)-the ball boots appeared brittle*
4. Moog Sway Bar links*
PICTURES COMING SOON!!!
Tools that will make the process easier:
12-ton press for control arm bushing removal and install
Ball joint remover that will be gentle on your boots-
Rent from local parts store (typically a free rental):
https://jet.com/product/detail/5d62ff1eef9b405f867f3f1955a0df28?jcmp=pla:ggl:b_nj_dur_gen_vehicles_parts_a2_b2:vehicle_parts_accessories_vehicle_maintenance_care_decor_vehicle_repair_specialty_tools_a2_other:na:PLA_627520716_31309448362_aud-155003204480
la-167598260940:na:na:na:2&code=PLA15&gclid=CND9lezi184CFYxlNwodeScNyg&gclsrc=dsBall Joint Removal (tip):
Loosen the nut, then invert it and replace on the ball until the wide bottom portion of castle nut is flush with the ball thread. This will help improve leverage of ball removal tool and save the ball threads.
Sway bar link removal (tip):
With both wheels elevated there is no pressure on the sway bar. Insert 6mm hex tool as far as possible in sway bolt to keep bolt from spinning and then lightly tap with a hammer; loosen securing nuts.
+Differences noted between the front suspension geometry a.2007 and b.2009
a. http://www.lexussouthatlantaparts.co...sembly=1174464
b. http://www.lexussouthatlantaparts.co...sembly=1174470
05-16-23, 01:20 PM
#27
Check out The Car Care Nut video on YouTube; the one where he's working on a black 10-12 LS. He goes over the knuckle assembly. His suggestion is just to replace the whole thing. It's expensive, yes, but it's risky trying to press in parts. Most places don't want to do that, as you've seen. Some will try to press in bushings. You'll see mixed luck on the forum posts. I spoke with my Lexus dealer while my wife's GX was in for a recall, asking the service advisor about what I was getting into with the LS, specifically with the control arms. He stated that due to the exorbitant cost of Lexus parts, many choose to go aftermarket (mentioned RockAuto) or other inexpensive routes. The problem is, aftermarket parts don't last as long and ride quality suffers. It's ultimately up to you and your budget and length of time you plan to keep the car.
I found this out the hard way on some of my older project cars I've since gotten rid of.....issues with obsolete OEM parts and aftermarket ones would sometimes be my only choice. I had to redo jobs multiple times due to poor quality parts. I got fed up wrenching all the time. No one wants to keep doing a 6 hour job to replace a crank sensor or something where you have to tear the whole front of the engine down, just to redo it in a year or 2 after the part fails.
I found this out the hard way on some of my older project cars I've since gotten rid of.....issues with obsolete OEM parts and aftermarket ones would sometimes be my only choice. I had to redo jobs multiple times due to poor quality parts. I got fed up wrenching all the time. No one wants to keep doing a 6 hour job to replace a crank sensor or something where you have to tear the whole front of the engine down, just to redo it in a year or 2 after the part fails.
02-15-24, 09:58 AM
#28
car care nut also mentioned that toyota ball joint almost never needs to be replaced, and that it's ok to have cracks in rubber bushing of control arms, no need to replace them.
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