LS460 Control Arm DIY (upper and lower) with Torque Spec's
 

*Lower Control Arm Service: The course you take will depend on your skill level and your tolerance for downtime.
**The following list is a guide and does not warranty success, use caution, check your torque settings 2x or 3x and replace all locking pins.
1. Chock rear wheels
2. Raise vehicle, put front end on jack-stands/readjust chocks
3. Raise Hood
4. Remove engine room covers that impede access to battery and shock mount bolts
5. Disconnect battery
6. Remove plastic skid plate from under carriage
7. Disconnect wheel speed sensors and brake wear indicator and remove orientation brackets from forward control arm (tuck wiring into space above metal skid plate)
8. Remove front caliper, use a hanger to suspend it from the front shock absorber
9. Disconnect brake line stay from hub/knuckle
10. Remove brake rotor and pads; place brake hardware on clean surface and mark to record side of car and/or orientation for rotor and pads
11. Remove brake dust shields
12. Disconnect Sway Bar link (17mm wrench and 6mm hex allen)
13. Remove securing pins from castle nuts (5 per side). Loosen all suspension nuts and remove nuts from lower control arms on body/frame side. Further, loosen tie rod, 2 lower control arm ball joints, and loosen upper control arm brackets and balls) including ball joint nuts (14mm, 17mm, and 19mm nuts). Leave the upper control arms securely fixed in their brackets
14. Remove (5) castle nuts (turn upside down) and tread them back on ball joints until flush with stud top.
15. Remove shock absorber bottom bolt.
16. Separate tie rod from knuckle
17. Reconnect battery, turn on vehicle but do not start, turn steering wheel completely to opposite side you are working (disconnect battery
18. Separate upper ball joints from knuckle seat but do not completely remove. Remove lower control arm to body bolts, then loosen upper castle nuts to free the knuckle (take care not to drop knuckle and control arm assembly.
19. Place a thick towel on solid surface and invert control arm assembly.
20. Use a 5 lbs. hammer to deal short (6inch drop) medium blows to lower forward control arm ball (with rethreaded inverted castle nut still installed until free.
21. Once free, turn knuckle right side up and place ball joint puller on lower rear control arm. Torque ball joint puller but do not try to use this force to separate the control arm (approx. 50lbs).
22. Slowly twist lower rear control arm taking care not to damage boot or wheel bearing. Until flat end of control arm can be wacked with the 5lbs. hammer without interfering with side of knuckle or wheel bearing. Deliver a short 6 inch striking-moderate blow to flat anvil head of the lower control arm. Repeat blows if necessary.
23. Remove rear upper control arm bracket and hang caliper from front upper control arm bracket.
24. Remove shock absorber mounting bolts in engine bay.
25. Hang caliper from a vacant hole where rear bracket was stationed.
26. Remove forward upper control arm bracket.
***Torque upper control arms to spec. in bracket prior to installation. Once upper control arm brackets are installed on car body the arm bolts are obstructed.
****Either rebuild your control arms with new bushings or purchase new units.
*****Inspect all components for damage (i.e. bends from damage, ball joint free play and boot condition) including the wheel bearing, the steering knuckle and it's ball joint.

REASSEMBLE:
FRONT UPPER SUSPENSION ARM
https://techinfo.toyota.com/t3Portal...=1470224721772

FRONT LOWER SUSPENSION ARM: INSTALLATION
https://techinfo.toyota.com/t3Portal...=1470225005943

FRONT KNUCKLE
https://techinfo.toyota.com/t3Portal...=1470961414410

FRONT BRAKE
https://techinfo.toyota.com/t3Portal...=1470225208121

Parts list (additions*):
1. ADS Bushing kit (only used upper bushings and lower rearward bushings). The ball joints for the lower forward arm are not easily removed w/o slight deform. Follow the above instructions to save a lot of time and money (See step #19)
2. Moog Lower Forward Arms*
3. Knuckles (oem left and right)-the ball boots appeared brittle*
4. Moog Sway Bar links*

PICTURES COMING SOON!!!

Tools that will make the process easier:
12-ton press for control arm bushing removal and install
Ball joint remover that will be gentle on your boots-
Rent from local parts store (typically a free rental):
https://jet.com/product/detail/5d62f...cNyg&gclsrc=ds

Ball Joint Removal (tip):
Loosen the nut, then invert it and replace on the ball until the wide bottom portion of castle nut is flush with the ball thread. This will help improve leverage of ball removal tool and save the ball threads.

Sway bar link removal (tip):
With both wheels elevated there is no pressure on the sway bar. Insert 6mm hex tool as far as possible in sway bolt to keep bolt from spinning and then lightly tap with a hammer; loosen securing nuts.

+Differences noted between the front suspension geometry a.2007 and b.2009
a. http://www.lexussouthatlantaparts.co...sembly=1174464
b. http://www.lexussouthatlantaparts.co...sembly=1174470

Sticky this!

great info..
wonder if there is similar instructions on
* changing the rear differential fluid, and for
* drain & fill the transmission fluid

Rear diff is simple. Drain and then refill with TGMO fluid (preferably).using a pump attachment. 15 minutes tops to do. My Toyota dealer charges 79 bucks, so there's that option as well.

As for the trans, it's one job I refuse to do, due to my belief (and that of Toyota/Lexus), that Techstream is required to ensure that the trans is at proper temps and certain valves etc are open when topping up and avoid overfilling (not a good thing). My Toyota dealer charges 149 bucks and for that price...they can have it. While they service the trans, they can also check if you have the latest software/firmware update.

Can you take a look at these instructions and provide some feedback, criticism and adjustments?

*This is an open invite to anyone interested in improving control arm service instructions.*

Which instructions are you referring to?

Steps 1-26 in Thread #1

Did my front brakes today and got a good look at bushings. Saw some good rips and cracks. Probably why over bumps and holes at slow to moderate speeds it thumps.

Not sure i will do these myself or have a shop do it.

Are you still planning on posting photos?

Certainly, but in the meantime if you disassemble the entire front suspension you can take the control arms and bushings to a machine shop for breakdown and rebuild. Return home in 3 hours and begin the reassembly.

I consider myself a decent DIY'er but with all the disassembly i am not sure of it. If you had a real lift would that cut down on some of the steps?

Thanks

A lift eliminates the step where you put the car on jack stands. The write-up is intended as a guide. The emphasis is on doing as little damage to the ball joint boots and threads while you're in this job. Feel free to eliminate and add steps and make it your own. Have fun with it. But make sure you have the tools mentioned (i.e wrenches, torque wrench, ball joint separator and two coat hangers).

Did you seen any issues with the AFS sensor when you finished? Mine is blinking now after work on lowers. Looks right i also compared before and after photos.

I did have an issue with the AFS light warning. Took off my wheel and I forgot to mount the leveler back on. Hope it's as a simple fix for you.

Nope. The Hub was bad think it took a blow by accident. Set off the AFS ABS and VSC error. Must have been hit too hard by mistake. Least its a cheap fix.

Thx

I will be using this info real soon!