mad_trbo

I haven't see any writeup on how to do this so I thought I might give it a shot. FYI, this procedure is done when your bushings have failed and requires you to drop the subframe. I rate this as a moderately difficult task with the right tools. Some would prefer to do it on a lift while I don't have the luxury of a lift. I simply did it in my garage. Minimum tools needed are as follows ;

1/2 inch drive ratchet
20 mm 1/2 socket - removal of subframe bolts
23 mm 1/2 socket - removal of bolt passing through control arm bushing

3/8 inch drive ratchet
17 mm 3/8 socket - remove bolts securing #1 lower control arm to #2 lower control arm. Also used to remove bracked from lower control arm used to mount shock.
14 mm 3/8 socket - remove bolts securing subframe support
12 mm 3/8 socket - remove bolt from splined portion of steering linkage going leading into the passenger compartment
2 floor jacks
1 hydraulic floor jack

10 mm 3/8 socket - remove nut and bolts connecting the sway bar to the lower control arm.


Your first step will be to remove the rear subframe support bracket. There are 4 14mm bolts securing this to the underside of the bar along with two 20mm bolts. I would have the hydraulic jack underneath the main cross support of the subframe.

While underneath the car I would go ahead and release the steering linkage. 12 mm bolt secures the steering rack to the spline leading into the cabin. Completely remove the bolt allowing the spline to slide free as the subframe drops.


Now you can unscrew the front 20 mm bolts, don't take them out all the way. About 1/2 inch worth of thread disengagement should allow the subframe to drop low enough. Now use the hydraulic jack to lower the subframe.

Once lowered you can remove the 23 mm nut securing the bolt through the worn bushing.

Note it is critical that you take care of the steering linkage otherwise you may experience damage to the spline portion of the componentry leading into the cabin.

mad_trbo

The first image over again. You'll need to remove the rear subframe brace. It may not be called this, but it looks like it provides structural rigidity across the body of the car and stops you from lowering the subframe.




I've got the 2jzgte conversion so I had to loosen the intercooler hose. This was done to avoid stretching the hose ;




Before you remove the bolts going through the bushing to the aft control arms, you need to mark your washers. These are cam washers and allow for caster adjustment; I would make witness marks on both the washer and the subframe, I don't suggest a marker as this may rub off.






I supported the subframe with a hydraulic jack. This was to relieve stress on the bolt threads as I uncscrewed the bolts securing the subframe to the car body. When I was ready, I lowered the jack allowing me to remove the bolts securing the aft lower control arms. Remember, you have to undo the steering linkage. In other words remove the bolt to the clamp that secures the rack to the spline before you lower the subframe, otherwise you risk damage.



Here you can see the subframe has been dropped approximatley 3 inches. You need this much space as you have to clear the bottom of the car when lifting the control arm bolt up and away from the bushing.



There are two bolts that bolt into the lower control arm aft securing it to the forward lower control arm. Before you the aft arm can be removed you will have to remove the bracket the shock is secured to. So obviously you will have to loosen the bolt securing the shock. I believe this is either a 17mm bolt.



Here is an extra photo of the cam washer used to adjust caster. You can hopefully see where I made witness marks that won't disappear with handling.



This was what my bushing looked like. I am unsure of what this does for the driving experience, but it couldn't be good.



I opted to press in new bushings, I had to modify a set to make it work. But it beat the cost of $150 plus per side.



All in all the job took me about 3 hours. Hopefully this helps, I know I struggled with finding information. A good chap by the name of Raph from Club Aristo was very helpful in clearing my fears.

Hopefully the hosting works

link13

That is a great writeup. Thank you. I threw money at mine a few years ago because I am not nearly the mechanic that you are. I am sure this will help a bunch of guys here.

plkyone

iTrader: (1)

Very nice write up this should be a sticky
what bushings did u use for replacement?

mad_trbo

Thanks, just doing my part. I know I pull alot of information from the various forums out here.

As far as the bushings go, I was a little unsettled. The bushings are supposed to be an OEM replacement at least they were listed on ebay as such. But they required modification. The height was off by approximatley
.190" So I had to cut them down and resurface for a true surface. The inner diameter for the bolt pass through was to small by .078". I suppose I was happy to find to much material as oppose to to little material. The kit actually list as replacement bushings for the 1st lower control arm and the aft lower control arm.

At the end of the day, I was pleased due to savings incurred.

Part no listed on the bag was 666024 manufactured by some small outfit, out west.

plkyone

iTrader: (1)

Thanks alot will do a ebay search to see what comes up

twojayzee

Nice write up

Raph TT

excellent writeup - good job on the Pics too.

Kudos for doing it in your garage, i used a lift and it wasnt a job a newbie should attempt

Very good job on mentioning the steering linkage - as its crucial not to mess that bit up.

i got my arms from yahoo japan (OEM toyota )

ive seen these armds on ebay.com as well as other suspension parts ..look out for sellers who specialise in Toyota/Lexus OEM parts.

VIP_Dreamz

thanks for this great write up. I currently have to replace my radius arm bushings on mines. Lucky I have a loving younger brother to help me out, since he is taking a suspension class, he will use my car to learn.

frogmaster

Hi, i was doing the same thing, using the same ebay bushings, thanks btw for pictures and stuff, rather helpful. But i was wondering, should i cut the bushing down only from the bottom side, mine were so destroyed, it's hard to tell, but cutting the bottom only at least seemed more right.

Johnny D

Just wanted to bump this thread because I used it as a means to get the bushing job done with my old man.

You'd think after years, the ebay store distributor would have corrected the bushings size issue. Needless to say, its still the same. I had to drill a wider gap to make the bolt fit. I had to grind down the bushing to get it to fit. What a big pain in the *** this job is.
My driver side bushing was s destroyed, the bolt was fused and took a torch to remove. Unbelievable.

Good write up, though. It *** very helpful

weston361

I signed up just to thank you for the write up. Otherwise, I probably would have just lived with the problem until I took my car to the scrap yard. Thank you much

m1k3yg

Bump from the dead!
I'm currently attempting to do this because I hit a curb over the summer. I was hoping to get some pictures but they're all gone. Would anyone mind sharing some pictures? Figs has a vague writeup on blogspot, and the service manual isn't exactly showing me how to remove the subframe to get the #2 lower control arm out.

kwikracer

☝️ this... except for hitting a curb.

alfasergio

Wrong thread, delete