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I'm familiar with that thread. So thanks for sharing again. But that still doesn't explain the two different subs from the same generation LS's? See the first three posts of this thread.
Interesting. On mine the magnet was in the cone. While it looks like the other one from a 2008 had the magnet on the bottom similar to a conventional driver. I did notice the speaker referenced in the other thread was not a ML system while mine is. That may explain the different speaker.
Interesting. On mine the magnet was in the cone. While it looks like the other one from a 2008 had the magnet on the bottom similar to a conventional driver. I did notice the speaker referenced in the other thread was not a ML system while mine is. That may explain the different speaker.
Thank u for pointing this out. So then as Tee has pointed out, the ML subs from 2007+ are the same? And it is the amp that's the only thing that's different? Therefore if someone wanted a 2010+ LS, all they would have to do is switch the amp in the trunk with a 2007 amp to maintain the better bass of the old amps?
Thank u for pointing this out. So then as Tee has pointed out, the ML subs from 2007+ are the same? And it is the amp that's the only thing that's different? Therefore if someone wanted a 2010+ LS, all they would have to do is switch the amp in the trunk with a 2007 amp to maintain the better bass of the old amps?
Upon some research there are two different model numbers for the ML subwoofer (see pics)
86160-50250 (2007-2009)
86160-0WG70 (2010-2012)
The sub pmiller posted in the first post in this thread is defiantly an aftermarket sub someone replaced the OEM one with, I seen the OEM sub before when a CL member removed it b/c it was blown. Far as using a 2007-2009 ML amp with a 2010-2012 ML system won’t work, if only it ws that simple. The interface module that goes with the head unit that controls steering wheel audio function, NAV etc due to the 2010-2012 head unit is different from 2007-2009. We are talking about two different NAV Gens with more features than 2007 -2009.
Upon some research there are two different model numbers for the ML subwoofer (see pics)
86160-50250 (2007-2009)
86160-0WG70 (2010-2012)
The sub pmiller posted in the first post in this thread is defiantly an aftermarket sub someone replaced the OEM one with, I seen the OEM sub before when a CL member removed it b/c it was blown. Far as using a 2007-2009 ML amp with a 2010-2012 ML system won’t work, if only it ws that simple. The interface module that goes with the head unit that controls steering wheel audio function, NAV etc due to the 2010-2012 head unit is different from 2007-2009. We are talking about two different NAV Gens with more features than 2007 -2009.
Wow. Thank u Tee. Very good research on your part. The first pic shown in this thread is actually not a factory LS sub. But as ur research shows, there are two different subs and a different amp for the 2007-2009 vs the 2010+. So when folks are comparing/complaining/praising the sound of their ML systems we first have to make sure that we are comparing apples to apples. But as a general consensus, Lexus DID lower the bass quality in the 2010+ LS's. Crap!!!!! I want the 2010+ LS's WITHOUT the decrease in bass. Shame on you Lexus and Harmon Kardon!!
Upon some research there are two different model numbers for the ML subwoofer (see pics)
86160-50250 (2007-2009)
86160-0WG70 (2010-2012)
The sub pmiller posted in the first post in this thread is defiantly an aftermarket sub someone replaced the OEM one with, I seen the OEM sub before when a CL member removed it b/c it was blown. Far as using a 2007-2009 ML amp with a 2010-2012 ML system won’t work, if only it ws that simple. The interface module that goes with the head unit that controls steering wheel audio function, NAV etc due to the 2010-2012 head unit is different from 2007-2009. We are talking about two different NAV Gens with more features than 2007 -2009.
Sorry to bring back an old thread, but sub blew or I started noticed it sounds like ***. Just took it out and noticed I have a 2010-12 sub, but my car is an 09. Would this cause the sub to sound bad?
Also does anyone know the positive and negative wire colors for the sub. Tried a multimeter, but nothing is showing up. Wanted to hook a loc
Sorry to bring back an old thread, but sub blew or I started noticed it sounds like ***. Just took it out and noticed I have a 2010-12 sub, but my car is an 09. Would this cause the sub to sound bad?
Also does anyone know the positive and negative wire colors for the sub. Tried a multimeter, but nothing is showing up. Wanted to hook a loc
You can use a 9volt battery and hook it up to the leads. Observe the cone and if it moves forwards then you know the correct phase. If it moves backwards then its the opposite.
For anyone reading this thread for options as I once was. It's far better for the long term health of your amp to have OEM speaker refurbished. Turns out mine had a bad voice coil it only cost $95 to have it repaired. The company is A to Z subwoofer and amp repair (great yelp reviews too). He says he refurbished many of these in a given year and it's usually the foam and not the voice coil. If it's only the foam it would be even cheaper.
I say, since you are pulling it out anyway, send it to this guy and have it repaired. I sent my sub to him by UPS on 6/19/19 and got it back and reinstalled today 6/26/19.
Upon some research there are two different model numbers for the ML subwoofer (see pics)
86160-50250 (2007-2009)
86160-0WG70 (2010-2012)
The sub pmiller posted in the first post in this thread is defiantly an aftermarket sub someone replaced the OEM one with, I seen the OEM sub before when a CL member removed it b/c it was blown. Far as using a 2007-2009 ML amp with a 2010-2012 ML system won’t work, if only it ws that simple. The interface module that goes with the head unit that controls steering wheel audio function, NAV etc due to the 2010-2012 head unit is different from 2007-2009. We are talking about two different NAV Gens with more features than 2007 -2009.
The subwoofers are the same for the ML systems the two different speakers you are showing are from a ML and non ML system the black plastic is stamped ML on the speaker enclosures
It looks like the connector has 4 wires and that two wires go to each side of the sub, does that mean that it’s a single channel with dual voice coil? I’m going to wire in an amp and aftermarket sub and want to take this factory sub signal as my new amp input. I want to wire these into a set of rcas. Which is positive and negative? Thank you.
I know this thread is really old but could come in handy for someone who's searching for replacing their old/blown sub like me.
Anyway, my 2014 LS460 with ML system has a 10" Subwoofer and it is ~12 Ohms when I took it out and measure the leads; it was jumping around but stops at around ~12.6 ohms
good question... the OP said he's going to use a JL Audio 10W6, version1 6ohms
this is the specs on my 2014 LS460 with ML System.
Subwoofer = 10" measured at ~12 Ohms
** Note: the cutout for the Sub is only 8" since the OEM Sub is sitting in the bracket housing and about 2 inches off above the cutout.
I know this thread is really old but could come in handy for someone who's searching for replacing their old/blown sub like me.
Anyway, my 2014 LS460 with ML system has a 10" Subwoofer and it is ~12 Ohms when I took it out and measure the leads; it was jumping around but stops at around ~12.6 ohms
Speakers are measured in impedance, it's based on alternating current. Measuring with an ohmmeter(direct current) will only accurately tell you if the voice coil has a broken wire (infinite resistance). Consumers are dependent upon the value listed on the speaker, some don't have the value listed. Why this is important: if the speaker impedance is much lower than the amplifier is rated at, the amp can be damaged at the worst and poor sound at the very least.
I know this thread is really old but could come in handy for someone who's searching for replacing their old/blown sub like me.
Anyway, my 2014 LS460 with ML system has a 10" Subwoofer and it is ~12 Ohms when I took it out and measure the leads; it was jumping around but stops at around ~12.6 ohms
What did your setup come out to be? I just upgraded from a 2012 ES350 (with Mark Levinson) to a 2011 LS460 (non-ML) and the first thing I noticed was the lack of bass. Found this thread and read through the whole thing. I'm not electrically inclined, but I can still wire something up if I know the directions. I would like to keep it as easy as possible and just wire in an amp, sub and I guess an LOC.
Is that what you did and what components did you use? It seems pmiller did that and was satisfied.