Hi, I recently started a couple of threads asking for the collective wisdom and expertise of the members of this forum. I wanted to reiterate my thanks to everyone who took the time to weigh in on the issues my car is having. I’m seriously impressed the sheer volume of information and the number of knowledgeable folks who make time to give feedback, answer questions (many of them not always well thought out or previously researched) and flat out try to help out total strangers like me, free of charge or any expectation of receiving something in return. Anyway, the information I gathered from reading through hundreds of prior threads, as well as direct input from some very seasoned members in response to my threads, was and is seriously invaluable. I was able to solve two problems with my car that I likely wouldn’t even have attempted to take on myself but for this site and its members. So once again, thank you!

Unfortunately, while I worked on those issues, another one popped up. And it’s something I’ve yet to solve, making me desperate enough to actually make an appointment to go see my Lexus dealer tomorrow morning to have them tell me what the issue is or what they think it is anyway. I’ve never taken any of the three Lexuses I’ve owned to the dealer for service or repairs of any kind. Let just say the two Lexus dealers where I live both have a reputation for being unscrupulous and untrustworthy, particularly when it comes to their service departments. There are loads of reports from customers that these dealers actually charged them for work that was verifiably never performed, made material misrepresentations to customers about the necessity of repairs recommended by the service department, and otherwise engage in some very shady practices at customers expense (and that’s being very generous). Well, it wouldn’t be the first time a car dealer was accused of foul play, it’ll be the first time that I have the need to take a car in and cross my fingers that I get an honest and competent service advisor and service technician when I take the car in tomorrow. In short, I really could use some feedback before I go in about the most likely culprit for the problem I’m having with starting the car. I don’t wanna walk in totally blind or with bad information because some guy at AutoZone put an idea in my head that was off track.

So here’s the issue: when I attempt to start the car, it goes like this. Push my foot down on the brake pedal and hold it there while I push the start button while holding my key fob up against it. Nothing. The car doesn’t even attempt to turn over. And to be clear, I’ve tried this with both of my key fobs, both of which I’ve put brand new batteries in, and both of which operated for years without any issue whatsoever until just the other day. Unable to start the car on that first attempt, I’ll take my foot off the brake for a moment and try again using the same process. Again, nothing happens. The engine doesn’t attempt to turn over,
I don’t even think i hear the starter clicking (not like the clicking I’ve heard from other cars historically when trying to start the car after leaving the lights on or something for example). Generally, however, on the third or fourth try, I will hear a beep of some sort coming from the instrument panel i think and all of a sudden the car will start up using the process of stepping on the brake pedal and holding the key fob next to the start button while pushing it and holding it for a moment like I had unsuccessfully done several times up to that point. (I will try to post a video here shortly.) I will then drive wherever it is that I’m going, but when I come back to the vehicle after having turned it off I have to go through this same process to get it started again. And that is true whether I drive 100 feet or 20 miles across town before shutting the car off.

Some points to consider:
-Car battery is about seven months old, and as far as I know is appropriately sized for a car like an LS.
-Car is always parked in garage.
-I do live in a hot climate but don’t drive very often so it’ll be hard to believe that the battery is the issue after only 9 months (during which time I have only put like 3,000 miles on the car, tops). I know that it’s bad for the battery to sit for too long of periods, but for what it’s worth I doubt there was ever a time in those 9 months that I went over one week without driving the car somewhere.
-As part of troubleshooting the other issues I was having with the car (the ones that I resolved regarding the trunk latch, trunk lid motor and the driver side rear door lock) I have recently disconnected the battery several times and while doing so noticed that the terminals could likely benefit from a replacement as they’re a bit bent up and likely would have increased contact with the battery post with new/different terminals. The contact between the terminals and posts as things are right now isn’t horrible or anything, but I think there’s a slight room for improvement there. Just want to point that out in case it shapes your opinion about things.
-i don’t get any sort of error messages or warning lights displayed anywhere on the instrument panel or elsewhere Prior to starting the car, while trying to start the car, or once it finally starts, and that goes for a bad battery warning light or any other kind of warning light or message for that matter, EXCEPT that “maintenance required” is always on in the small area on the instrument panel between the tachometer and speedometer. “Maintenence required” isn’t flashing, it’s always on. My car is due for the 90,000 mile major service and im pretty sure that the maintenance required indication on the dash is simply a reminder of that, programmed by the independent Lexus mechanic I had install new rotors about six months back without incident. In short, I don’t believe the maintenance required light has anything to do with the problem I just started having starting the car. Indeed, the problem getting the car to start only developed within the last few days whereas the maintenance required message popped up well before that.
-I have the above issue starting the car, regardless of which key fob I use, and both key fobs have brand new batteries in them that i have confirmed have at least 3V.
-when the car started giving me trouble starting a few days ago out of nowhere, I began to wonder if the key fob batteries might be rapidly draining because of possible interference with or interaction with an Apple AirTag I have on the same keychain as my car key fob. If the key fob batteries were severely depleted, that would sure have to be at the top of the list of reasons why the car was having difficulty starting. But the timing of it didn’t make sense because the AirTag was on my keychain for a year and I never had an issue starting the car during that time until just the other day. And I have since confirmed that the key fob batteries are holding their voltage of 3V. I’ve also removed the AirTag from the keychain just to be safe. So I don’t believe the difficulty getting the car started has anything to do with the key fobs in case anyone was wondering that.
-Have verified the voltage on the car battery is right at about 12.5V at rest. I can’t confirm what the voltage is when the car starts up.
-I have cleaned the battery posts and terminals, applied dialectic grease, and ensured that both terminals are well secured to the posts.
-Took the car to AutoZone yesterday to see what they had to say about things since I bought the current battery there about 9 months ago. They clamped their device onto the battery and had me try to start the car. Like I mentioned above, I hold the key fob right up against the start button and depress the brake pedal and hit start and nothing. Doesn’t attempt to turn over, and I don’t hear any clicking like I would expect to from a starter when the battery has been drained. But on the third or fourth try it finally does turn over and without any struggle whatsoever. It’s like the car didn’t feel like starting up to that point but suddenly changed its mind and agreed to cooperate. The car didn’t struggle to turn over or anything on that third or fourth try while being tested at AutoZone, it fired right up on that attempt. And it fires right up on the third or fourth attempt otherwise too. MmUnfortunately, AutoZone couldn’t tell me anything other than “bad starter.” I asked him what kind of voltage the car showed before and during startup but he said the device he was usingndoesn’t provide that level of information. Basically he said it just tells you yes or no about whether a component is acting up or not. I asked him about the alternator. He said that was fine. I asked him about the battery and he said that was fine. Who knows though since I bought the battery there and it would’ve required him to replace it under warranty had he told me it was a bad battery. Anyway, that’s the only information I received from him was that it was a bad starter. I don’t know enough about all of this to say whether it’s likely he was correct or not about the issue being a faulty starter. The fact that it starts right up without trouble on the third or fourth attempt though makes me wonder how it would do so with a bad starter as AutoZone claimed. I’m just thinking out loud though. I don’t see any reason to mention AutoZone’s conclusion to the dealer when I take the car in tomorrow. I’ll let them come to their own conclusion and avoid giving them information that could be wrong, but nevertheless used against me if they are as dishonest as many say they are.


SOOOO, based on what you’re hearing, what would you say the problem is? I don’t expect you to have a crystal ball; an educated guest is more than enough for me. Any other likely culprit or culprits based on the information I have given? I’ve heard the starter on this car is difficult to access and therefore a very expensive repair job simply in terms of the number of hours the dealer will charge for labor. And given the reputation of this dealer, it wouldn’t at all surprise me if they magically conclude that the only way to fix this is via a ridiculously pricey replacement job, which might not even be the actual problem.Any suggestions or thoughts along those lines or any others so I can (hopefully) minimize the chances of being taken for a ride by the supposedly shady dealer I’m having look over the car midday tomorrow.

(I think Ive given you all pertinent information about this, but I haven’t slept much lately so if I forgot something that you’d find useful or necessary to weigh in on this, don’t hesitate to ask me and I’ll do my very best to get it for you if I can as soon as I can.)!

Really appreciate whatever input anyone cares to provide, big or small. Thanks!

 

My AI friend come with the following:

Thinking through solution structure

Okay, I need to structure my answer well. I’ll focus on the starter solenoid or brake pedal switch as the most likely culprit for intermittent cranking. I think it’s essential to explain why it fits the symptoms – a good battery but failures on the first tries, then working later. The brake switch is worth mentioning too. I want to suggest checking the brake switch, inspecting the starter, and going through diagnostic steps at the dealer without getting too technical about tools or methods.

It all makes sense to organize into clear sections: first, a direct answer, then steps to check, dealer diagnostics, and finally some additional insights. I'll make sure to follow the structure with headings and keep everything concise. Let’s go!

Most Likely Culprit: Intermittent Starter Activation

The pattern you describe—no cranking on the first couple of brake-pedal-and-button attempts, then a clean, full-voltage turnover on the third or fourth—points squarely at a starter-related issue rather than the battery or key fob. In practice, a worn starter solenoid or internal starter motor windings can fail to engage reliably until they warm up or the contacts settle, leading to exactly the kind of hesitation you’re seeing.

That said, modern push-button starts also rely on a functioning brake-pedal switch to tell the car’s computer it’s okay to crank. If that switch is marginal, you’ll get nothing when you mash the brake pedal—and then sometimes a single micro-movement or vibration snaps it into the correct position, finally letting the starter engage.

What to Check Before the Dealer Visit

• Brake-Pedal Switch
  Check whether your brake lights come on immediately and consistently every time you press the pedal. Any lag or dimming can indicate the switch isn’t closing the circuit reliably.
  
• Starter Relay and Fuse Block
  Wiggle the relay/fuse block under the hood (with the car off) to see if any looseness reproduces your no-crank symptom, then tighten the connections.
  
• Voltage at the Starter
  Using a friend’s help and a simple multimeter, measure voltage on the large starter terminal during your crank attempts. It should read at least 11 V the moment you push Start and hold the brake.
  
• Starter Motor Ground
  Inspect the thick ground strap from engine to chassis—loose or corroded grounds can mimic a weak starter by starving it of current.
  

Diagnostic Steps to Ask the Dealer to Perform

1. Functional Test of Brake-Pedal Switch
   Request they verify actuation signals from the brake switch in real time (most dealers can do a live data scan in their TechStream or OEM software).
   
2. Crank-Voltage Drop Test
   Have them measure starter current draw and voltage drop across the cables. Excessive drop confirms starter or cable issues.
   
3. Starter Bench Test
   Ask that the starter be removed and bench-tested under load to confirm solenoid engagement and motor draw are within spec.
   
4. Documented Quote
   Get a written estimate detailing labor hours, parts, and tests performed. That paper trail helps you push back if they try to upsell unnecessary work.
   

Additional Insights and Next-Level Tips

Even if the starter turns out to be the culprit, replacing it with a quality OEM or remanufactured unit and new mounting hardware is your safest bet. Cheap aftermarket starters often exhibit the same intermittent-engage behavior sooner than later.

If you’re concerned about future dealer shenanigans, consider these moves: carry a small USB battery-powered OBD-II reader and your phone, so you can watch live PIDs (especially brake-switch status and starter current draw) yourself in real time. A $30 dongle and free app can level the playing field.

Finally, once the starter is sorted, keep your battery at peak health with a smart trickle charger if the car sits more than a week at a time. Healthy voltage minimizes wear on the starter solenoid contacts and helps ensure instant starts every time.

Hope this helps!

 

Why do you press the fob against the start button, does the light on the start button not turn green when you step on the brake? A simple and effective test of the brake switch is to push the start button twice without your foot on the brake to bring the ignition to the on position then step on the brake pedal and see if you can shift into any gear...the brake switch also controls the shift interlock system and even if the brake lights aren't working it could be bulbs etc.

It could be the starter itself because that's fairly common, the solenoid has 2 copper contacts inside it and a spring loaded plunger that is magnetically pulled horizontally to contact both and transfer the power coming from the battery cable to the starter motor....over time the contacts wear unevenly and eventually will be unable to complete the starter circuit. When this happens you will hear one click compared to hearing multiple clicking of relays etc when the battery voltage gets low.

One way to diagnose this is to cycle the key/start button as fast as you can and if the contacts aren't completely hooped you can usually get it going like this. You seem to have an unusual amount of issues with this car, did you just get it recently?

 

thanks for all the great info and the laugh, @bobusa !

since I wrote the post above I went back out and hooked up my leads to the battery to watch the voltage while starting and immediately afterward. And wouldn’t you know it, this time the car started up on the first try. But not the usual way. It was only after putting the key fob right up against the start button that I heard a rather quick and not at all loud or alarming single “beep” inside the cabin (sounded like it came from instrument cluster but can’t say for sure). Prior to this, I don’t think I never heard that beep so soon while trying to start the car. And to be clear, I mean since the car started having problems starting a few days ago, this was the first time I think i had heard that beep noise on the very first attempt to start the car.

Anyway, I was surprised by that. I don’t know if it means anything, but seemed like potential progress at the time at least. Earlier in the day, I did manage to tighten down positive battery terminal a tad bit and confirmed afterward that the battery at rest was about 12.8 V. So back to having my leads hooked up to the terminals this evening. As soon as the car started cranking to turn over the voltage dropped down to somewhere in the 10 to 11 range. And once the engine fired up and began running, the voltage jumped up into the high 13s voltage wise and maxed out right at 13.9V. I don’t know if that changes anything that you shared below Bob, but I wanted to add that additional information in case it might.

Oh, and one other question based on what you said above: you mentioned asking them to pull the starter off in order to run a bench test. My first impression based on some postings I’ve seen online about replacing the starter on this car is that getting at the starter in order to remove it is fairly difficult or at least pretty time consuming. One person who posted about this on Reddit says that his dealership told the customer that the engine had to be pulled in order to replace the starter! He was also told by his independent Lexus mechanic that it would cost $5500 to replace the starter!! Another post said that the customer was told by the dealer that it would take approximately 18 hours to do the job. That’s some serious time. I don’t know whether that’s true or not but it’s got me in some pretty deep prayer that my issue ISNT THE STARTER! The part itself from Lexus is somewhere around $300-$400. But sounds like I can at least double or triple that for labor cost to pull the old one and put on new one. And that’s being incredibly conservative, will be several times that amount if the other people who posted about this issue are correct. I’m wondering if you have any idea whether having them pulled the starter to run a bench test is effectively gonna cost me so much money that I’d be better off just paying to have the starter replaced with a new one. Any feeling one way or another on that? My starter is 12 years old, so I’d hate to spend a ton of money to do a bench test only to be told that the starter is fine and be out all that coin and still have a 12-year-old starter that could still fail at any time.

​​​​​​​Thanks again!

 

Hope you'll find it. Are you sure you don't have an immobilizer of some sort?

 

I figured it out and I’m kicking myself. Right around the time that I started having trouble with the starting issue I apparently was also having trouble accessing the car when it’s locked by simply touching the door handle I wanna open (with key fob on my person). I could unlock all the doors just fine by pushing the buttons on the key fob, but I wasn’t able to just approach the car and grab a handle and have it unlock for me. I guess I didn’t really notice that at the time, probably because my car hasn’t really left the house because of the starting issue so the car hadn’t been locked much, obviating the need to grab the handle and have it unlock like that. Anyway, I just kind of noticed that issue more recently and it got me thinking that perhaps it’s connected with the trouble starting issue. So I went into the customizable features menu and lo and behold I had (at some point in the past when I was trying to figure out some issues with a door lock and trunk closet motor) turned off the option to access the vehicle using electronic key. I can’t remember exactly what the title of the option was but once I turned that back on it not only allowed me to unlock any door by putting my hand on the handle with the fob on me, it also resolve the issue about starting the car. When I had been starting it on the third or fourth attempt lately I guess I was moving the key fob closer and closer to the start button with each successive attempt to start it. So by the third or fourth attempt, I had the key fob close enough to the start button so as to allow me to start the car the way one would have to if their key fob battery was depleted/dead.

I can’t believe i missed that!!! Anyway everything is working perfectly now, and I just saved a few thousand bucks by replacing the trunk lid motor and the left rear door lock actuator, changing a fuse or two, and setting my vehicle up so that it will start like it’s supposed to. Thanks everyone for your help.