Hey guys.

Just pickedup a 2011 touring sport rwd. Has 130k. California car. I want to do a trans service. Any advise? Had 35 service records at Lexus over its lifetime as well as other shops but nothing stated about the trans service. I have to assume it was never done. Im very meticulous with my vehicles. I wsnt do do the service filter. Am I ok to do it?

 

Be aware those Lexus records can be very incomplete if you are looking online or via the app. If you are looking at paper records, that’s going to be definitive.

The filter is rarely a high priority item and a hassle vs. on an engine. Not trying to discourage you from doing it, but if it seems a hassle, make a priority out of the much easier fluid-only service. I’ve done about four or five different fluid services to cars in the 100 to 158k range in the last few years, where it was the first service as far as I could tell. All ran noticeably better afterwards, and usually improved a bit even after the initial boost.

Amsoil (I use as a reference as they have instant, easy, accurate volume and rec. data by model) says your volume is 10.9qts total, and 3.4 for the pan. If you did 2x pan drain/fills over a short period of time, you’d be in good shape to then push the next one out the normal 25 or 30k interval.

 

I have to disagree about the filter, removing the pan can give you a better idea of what's been going on there by the condition/what's on the magnets and the appearance and colour of the connectors on the valve body if overheating has happened plus the fact that the fibrous filter is 13 yrs old.
This picture is approx what will drain if you do a filter change, this was the first drain so I added 1/2 quart more because it's faster to drain some fluid when level checking than adding fluid during procedure. It will cost approx $ 200 ish more for the oem filter and gasket.

 

Always do the filter......

 

Read my post again, you missed the point. A priority is the fluid, if intimidated.

And the fluid can be evaluated best by a drop test, pad drop to do that is massive overkill.

 

As a long time mod at TN and Isuzoo, I/we saw MANY more instances of problems because non-experts dug into the filter and messed up the job, than problems solved because it was left alone (never, ever seen it “cure” anything). Read my post, I caution the uncomfortable at the job to use caution, not counsel absolutely against it. Are you able to do it? Go for it. It’s absolutely NOT like an engine oil filter, so don’t get so hot and bothered about it. “Always” is not a sound piece of advice.

Absolutely DO NOT do the filter if it’s your first time working on your back, and sealing machined faces with critical gaskets and torque procedures, looking up stuff on the internet from anonymous sources to know what to do. Know your limits and especially when it comes to transmissions.

I’m the world’s biggest proponent of transmission service and maintenance, in fact routinely PO’ing mods on this forum about it. But on this rock I will build my church, and the gates of Hades will not prevail.

 

So you recommend substandard methods. Just say as much and tell people it's not the correct way but rather the easy one, if they can't follow the procedure take it to someone who can.

Don't tell people to just shortcut it as a way to prevent them making a mistake. Saying "fluid is fine or issue are caused by pan drops etc" is just allowing incorrect procedures to become commonly accepted. That's how we get stupid myths like "you need some old clutch material for it to shift right so don't change the fluid if it's old"

 

"if intimidated" people shouldn't be doing a drain n fill, the level check by itself could be a disaster for this type of person. Intimidated people should have this service done at a shop where they will have some recourse if things go south. Changing the filter and replacing the gasket that's formed to be held by the pan is the simplest part of this service.

 

Amen. The sealing surface also almost always requires no prep, I have yet to remove a pan and have anything other than a mirror pan rail waiting.

 

That's very true, just a little crud outside of the gasket sealing area.

 

I recommend what Aisin recommends - pay attention to the fluid and don’t f’with the filter.

Aisin does not even put real filters in some transmissions - are you not aware of this? Are you pulling an AW of AF transmission and power train every time you do a fluid service, to change the filter? It’s in the case and never gets replaced.

Fluid in an ATF is NOT like engine oil and filtration is not the same. Posts like this is how we get silly myths…

“Stainer” in an A340, pointless to change. Look at the “filter material” in the window. Many U series are the same.


Filter location in an Aisin AF/AW; you have to pul the trans and OPEN it to change it. Do you really think Aisin views they filter as critical?

 

You moved the goalposts once again, the AA80E and the AWD version both have fleece filters that are easily replaced. If you ever did a proper service on one you would know that

Aisin says to change them at 60k miles and I listen to what they say. Stop changing the conversation to something we weren't discussing or irrelevant to the XF40 platform.

 

Yes. Do it all. Take it in to a dealer or an import shop that's good. Move on with your life.

 

My 88 y.o. mom just decided to quit driving, and she gave me her 2010 LS460 with only 48,500 miles to me. I looked at her record and it seems that nothing was done on the AT. I think I'm just gonna drain and fill with the same amount of ATF next week when all of my parts arrive at the dealership.

Here is my question to ChatGPT:

My mom just gave me her 2010 LS460 with only 48,500 miles. The transmission has never been serviced. I plan on changing the ATF, do you think the ATF might have burned off a little over the 14 years?

ChatGPT said:
ChatGPT
Congratulations on inheriting a well-maintained 2010 Lexus LS 460! At 48,500 miles, the transmission fluid (ATF) is likely still within acceptable levels, but after 14 years, it may have experienced some degradation.

Will the ATF have burned off?
Automatic transmission fluid doesn’t typically "burn off" like engine oil because the transmission is a sealed system. However:

Heat Exposure: Over time, repeated exposure to heat can degrade the fluid, reducing its effectiveness in lubricating, cooling, and protecting transmission components.
Evaporation and Minor Loss: While rare, minor ATF loss can occur due to slight evaporation or microscopic leaks in seals over long periods, though this is less common in a well-maintained car like yours.
Why Change It Now?
Given the age of the fluid:

Oxidation: The ATF may have oxidized, turning darker in color and losing its original viscosity and additives. Oxidized ATF can no longer protect the transmission effectively.
Preventative Maintenance: Changing the fluid now ensures the longevity of your transmission and avoids expensive repairs later.
How to Check ATF Condition:
Before performing the change:

Visual Inspection: Check the color and smell of the ATF. Fresh fluid is typically red or pink and has no burnt odor. Dark or brown fluid with a burnt smell suggests degradation.
Level Check: If your car has a dipstick (some Lexus models do not), verify the fluid level to see if any significant loss has occurred.
Recommendations:
Drain and Fill: A simple drain-and-fill procedure is safer than a complete flush for an older transmission that hasn’t been serviced, as a flush might dislodge debris and clog internal components.
Use the Correct ATF: Lexus specifies Toyota ATF WS fluid for the LS 460 transmission.
Inspect the System: Check for leaks or issues with seals while changing the fluid.
Long-Term Benefit
By servicing the transmission now, you’ll ensure smoother shifting and prevent premature wear, which can save you thousands in potential repairs. If you’re unsure about fluid condition, a trusted mechanic can inspect it for you.