Hey guys and gals, wondering if anybody has figured out how to get LED DRL and High Beams working? I've done a search but most threads are 5+ years old and doesn't seem to have a clear solution. I've read that basically the DRL is powered by 6v so if you swap in a 9005 LED bulb they will just flicker? I've done some searching for harnesses on Amazon, but most ppl say all the harness does is provide full power 12v to the DRLs at all times, so you are high beaming all the time.

Has anyone figured out a way to get LED DRL and High beams working at two brightness levels like OEM without full power on DRL?

Main reason is I feel the dingy yellow halogen DRL is the only thing dating our cars. I've pretty much swapped all other exterior bulbs to LED and it makes the car look much cleaner and more modern. The yellow halogen clashes with the white LED that I put in the parking lights.

 

I've yet to see anyone post a solution for this. You could run some power resistors that have the same resistance as the original bulbs but this also means the LEDs run at full power not ideal even in the day.

 

I have not tried these but it looks like VLEDS now has a solution: https://www.vleds.com/shop-applicati...ing-light.html

They are quite expensive but I might try them out

 

Damn that is expensive

 

https://store.ijdmtoy.com/products/l...29241188810855

This is what you want for the DRL decoders in the high beams

 

One of the reviews mentions the resistor (which is the driver unit, resister built in) gets extremely hot, in other words there is no specific reason to buy that bulb set. Get two power resistors instead and use whatever LED you want.

But you'll still have full brightness high beams in the day.

The Morimoto 9005 DOES work properly in a DRL setup dims to 30% (and will run at 6 volts). I can't speak to the light output.

edit - here is a review

 

Thanks. Looking at the Morimoto 9005 the pricing is similar to the product offered by VLEDS

 

I just brought the Morimoto's will update once I get them.

 

Nice, we'll finally get the answer if those work in DRL mode.

 

Did you buy the anti flicker module? I am reading the morimoto site and this is what they say:

DRL DRIVE: The LED Driver is configured to accept a wide range of input voltage, making them compatible with low voltage daytime running lights commonly found on modern vehicles. When the LED driver detects 6-9V of input: The system logic automatically switches to produce just 30% of the standard output. The low power drive rate of 250mA produces only 460lm per emitter and enables the 2Stroke 3.0 to produce a suitably low output volume as a daytime running light. In this mode, the cooling fan also shuts off to conserve power/lifespan. For vehicles with a PWM-based DRL signal, an inline PWM module that produces a clean DC6V will be required. The driver is completely potted, making it completely weather-proof. Note that the DRL-Drive function is only for use in non-US markets.

DO I NEED PWM / ANTI-FLICKER MODULES?: When using in Fog Lights: Unlikely. With low beams that double as Daytime Running Light: Likely.With high beams that double as Daytime Running Light: Likely. When the vehicle is late model American (Chrysler, Dodge, Jeep, Ford, GM): Likely.

So basically the advantage is their bulbs can go lower voltage but no guarantee that it won't flicker or work. I'm not spending $200+ just to hope it works. I might as well disable drl and just slap on any high beam bulb I want.

 

Here are the pics from the install.
Overall it works pretty flawlessly, can say I'm pretty impressed.
The only major issue I had was that the locking rings were stuck and I needed to pry them a touch to unlock them.
They are supposed to be clocked "9-3" but I could only do that on the passenger side, the driver was more like "9.5-3.5.
Fit was a bit loose in the socket which I find is pretty normal for aftermarket blubs, so added a touch of RTV to hold in place long term.
I will report back in a month or so after I put 30-40 hours on them.

Images spoiled since they are pretty big.

Box:


The Bulb:


Connector Polarity:


Install (added some RTV since socket seemed a bit loose):


DRL:


Lo:


Hi:

 

No I ran them straight to the connector. The LS430 is a bit too old for PWM, Toyota just ran the lights in series

 

LED in DRL mode that actually works it's a miracle.

 

Nice, thanks for the pics and review. They look pretty good. I ordered the Morimoto's as well they have a sale going on right now

 

@LightsGoUp can you confirm the part numbers of the headlights you bought? It's the Morimoto 9005/H10 kit, correct?