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Please Help! Check engine light is driving me insane!

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Old Jan 31, 2022 | 11:56 PM
  #16  
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Hi

Yes its always the same code. P0125 - nothing else.
We looked at the wire, but did not read the wire for continuity - I will insist on that next time.

There are absolutely no other symptoms. Also it seems to be random, actually since I bought it there have been a couple of times where the light went off
by itself for a couple of days and then came back on again, although I had not repaired or done anything to the car.

Lately I had started to unhook the battery for a minute to make the light go away, and be able to drive and fool myself that everything is fine with the car.
You see how desperate I already am, anyway, it seemed like the first drive the light did not come on, but once the engine was warm and later that day I took it for a second drive, it came back on again. What I can say for sure is, that it only comes on, when the engine is warm.

The scanner will show up tomorrow, I hope it works and I can figure out what to read, whats important, etc ...

Here is the original picture I took today, where the needle of the temperature gauge stands, once its warm.
Sidenote: where I drew the square - there is supposed to be a little screen, which does not work on my car.
Did anyone of you have the same problem before and do you know where I can buy a replacement for that little LCD screen?
Car is in kilomerters, because I am from Austria

Thank your for your help and suggestions!
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Old Feb 1, 2022 | 07:11 AM
  #17  
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That square screen displays the compass or outside temp. Hold down the "Disp 2" button on the steering wheel until it displays.
Here's for your p0125 code. It's an O2 sensor problem.
Attached Files
File Type: pdf
m_di_0050 (1).pdf (113.2 KB, 75 views)
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Old Feb 1, 2022 | 07:22 AM
  #18  
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The small screen is broken, I know about the display button, but it does not work. If I look at the screen with a flashlight I can see the little pixles and they look like melted. Sometimes 2 pixles in the top corner work.
Thank you for the pdf. Can the back O2 sensors behind the cathalitic converter also be the problem?
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Old Feb 1, 2022 | 07:29 AM
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Bank 1, 2 sensor 1 - which ones are those. Both sides in the front of the car? Those are the ones I changed.
Is the heater part of the oxygen sensor, or is that some other part, which could get faulty?
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Old Feb 1, 2022 | 08:24 AM
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Originally Posted by Artiversal
Bank 1, 2 sensor 1 - which ones are those. Both sides in the front of the car? Those are the ones I changed.
Is the heater part of the oxygen sensor, or is that some other part, which could get faulty?
Sensor 1 is the front one on both banks. The rear O2'S won't cause this code. The heater is built in to the oxygen sensor.
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Old Feb 2, 2022 | 11:36 AM
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Two days ago I unplugged the battery after driving, the engine was already warm, and then continued to drive all day long smaller and longer trips, with smaller and longer breaks in between. The error did not come back on. Also today I drove around a couple of times and it did not come back on.

Then I got the scanner today.
I plugged it in and then started driving.
After a short time the dash went crazy, the vsc light came on! Check VSC - and the sport suspension light started blinking and the big red warning triangle was on.
I took the scanner out again, but the warning lights did not go away.
I stopped the car, turned off the engine, unplugged the battery, but as soon as I started driving a couple of feet the error and warning was back.
By then I was super frustrated, wished I had never bought this car.

When I got home I unplugged the battery for longer and then started a fresh with the scanner.
First with the car not running and then the car running.
All different kind of crazy things happend:
One time it said VSC 39
Then ABS blinking, sport suspension blinking, VSC test ...

I tried to erase the mistakes with the app car scanner, but the app did not find any codes.
Then I looked at the read outs the app gave me while idling, the engine was warm.
I took a couple of screenshots and will upload them here. Maybe you can take a look at them and tell me if there is something that is not right.

Afterwards I turned off the car and took out the obd scanner and waited for a while.
Next time I started all the mistakes were gone, also the VSC warning was gone. I guess I was lucky and hope it will stay that way.
I for sure am not going to put that scanner back into that car.







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Old Feb 2, 2022 | 01:56 PM
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Awesome you got 'car scanner' app working.

Which OBD tool did you get? The car shouldn't throw all those lights. Given the time delay between plugging it in and the lights triggering it could well be a configuration thing.

And I pressume you chose the profile for 'old lexus/toyotas' ? In settings there are connection configuration - I had most success leaving it to automatic. The scanner will work through settings to make the best connection - be prepared for this to take 5-10 minutes (with the engine running).

Anyway back to the App and trying to find out what is going on with the car.
Now there is a screen called 'dashboard' - you get to create or choose sensors to monitor. The sensors can be displayed in different ways - I like the chart view as it helps see what is happening such as below.


And you can create many of them which is handy for monitoring different things - ie I have one dash configured with lots of sensors for an overview - engine temp, air temp, rpm, speed, fuel consumption, ltft's etc. It's a lot of data so the refresh is slow but it is good for an overview
I have another 'dash' of just o2 sensor readouts, another dsah with MAF, Throttle position, rpm, speed, ltft., etc

In this case I recommend creating a dash with
- TPS
- engine temp
- air temp
- MAF
- rpm
- speed
- all 4 o'2 sensors
- b1 + b2 ltft
- ignition timing

As you are in Austria - can you set it to metric?
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Old Feb 2, 2022 | 07:13 PM
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Your bank 1 sensor 1 is bad. It should never display 0v. Your ecm is adding almost 20% extra fuel based on the incorrect readings. Running this rich will very quickly destroy your catalytic converter on that side.
​​​​​​

Last edited by 911LE; Feb 2, 2022 at 07:16 PM.
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Old Feb 2, 2022 | 08:16 PM
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Originally Posted by 911LE
Your bank 1 sensor 1 is bad. It should never display 0v.​​​​​​
Too early to condemn the sensor yet without other contextual data.

It's only showing 0v in one of the screens. In the other two screens it is showing voltage. (admittedly not much).

Certainly worth investigating further but too early just to pull and replace..
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Old Feb 3, 2022 | 01:08 AM
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Ok, thank you for the replies.

@911LE did you see that in my screenshots, that I am using too much fuel? The car has only one cathalitic converter for both sides - thats what I read somewhere.

I checked the scanner app again and this time I was able to download the recorded driving session from yesterday.
I made a couple of screenshots again and will add them to this post. Bank1 Sensor 1 seems to do a lot less than Sensor 1 on Bank two?
The chart LTFT means Long term fuel % trim - Bank 1 and Bank 2 - also here Bank 1 is not doing much!!

What do you think? Do you need any other parameters from the drive yesterday as a screenshot to pinpoint the problem?
Or do I really have to use that scanner again. That was a scary experience for me yesterday.









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Old Feb 3, 2022 | 05:01 AM
  #26  
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Yep that o2 sensor 1 on bank 1 is definitly caput.
Strange it's not throwing a o2 sensor code.

It's often wise to replace both sides as a pair at the same time.
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Old Feb 3, 2022 | 05:07 AM
  #27  
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What temperature thermostat did you put in? I think the factory standard is 82 degrees c/ 180f.
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Old Feb 3, 2022 | 09:13 AM
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The thermostat I put in is called:

KW 530 298 Kühlmitteltemperatur-Sensor Made in Italy - OE Equivalent

Artikelnummer: 530 298
  • Gebrauchs-Nummer(n): KW EPS1830298, KW FACET73298
  • EAN: KW 8012510125366

Its exactly for a LS430 - did you see that the temperature is not right?
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Old Feb 3, 2022 | 09:17 AM
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Originally Posted by Aus430
Yep that o2 sensor 1 on bank 1 is definitly caput.
Strange it's not throwing a o2 sensor code.

It's often wise to replace both sides as a pair at the same time.
The thing is that I did replace both of them like three months ago. The ones I used were from Denso.
Should I still replace both of them again? Bank 1, 2 - sensor 1?

The one that is acting strange is Bank 1 Sensor 1 - I think that is drivers side?
Here would be the number from another post on this forum:
Bank 1 Sensor 1 - Driver's side (left front) on exhaust header. Lexus # 89465-50120 / Denso OEM # 234-4138 / Denso Universal # 234-4209 / Bosch OEM # 13441 / Bosch Universal # 15733

Also strange is, that for the fourth day in a row i did not get the check engine light anymore.
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Old Feb 3, 2022 | 09:35 AM
  #30  
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If I change the sensor, should there be the same brand on both sides, I just checked my supplier and from Denso they only have the universal one.
https://www.auto-doc.at/autoteile/la...cf30/15578-430
I just saw, that they have one for left side and one for right side as well, but they seem to cost twice as much as the other suppliers.

But the do have other brands for that Bank 1 - Sensor 1, for example Bosch, Delphi, and many more - is there one which you would recommend?
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