Bank 1 is left hand side of the car

I read in your original post that you have already replaced o2's

what sensors did you use? Are they denso?
How old are they now since they were replaced?
Any chance of warranty?

 

Buy the actual Lexus sensor for the upstream O2......otherwise it's a gamble

 

And yes brand does matter. You should keep them the same to ensure the same reading calibration for both sides of the engine

Densos are what the car was designed around. But if you choose to use another brand like bosch, then make sure both sides are bosch (preferably installed at the same time so they are worn the same level like spark plugs)

Try Rock Auto if you are struggling to find good parts supply. Whatever you do, don’t fall prey to the cheap ebay fakes.

 

Were they real Densos or cheap Chinese "Dansos?" These are among the critical dealer or reputable parts source only type parts that also includes plugs, coils, injectors, etc. Way too many fake parts on the market to make a gamble with your engine. Get a new sensor asap or you will destroy the catalytic converter on that side.

 

one possible thing you could try is disconnecting the battery for an hour and reconnecting - to reset the computer back to base tune - and then drive around with car scanner running to log some data to see how the computer decides to compensate.

 

Add MAF and knock sensors to that list.

Critical and unfortunately too many fakes out there in convincing genuine-ish looking boxes.

 

Thank you all for your replys.

I bought the car and the guy who sold it to me had the parts already ordered, but since he lived in a different country, for work, the car was stranded for two years and he never got around to put the new sensors in. So I got the sensors with the car and on the package it said Denso. It could well be that they were fake ones.

So I think we are all pretty sure, its the sensor itself, or could it be the cable or the connection?
I am not sure, what it would help if I unplug the battery and get another reading.

Best thing is probably to buy two new sensors from Denso, via Rock Auto and install them asap.

 

Yep, I wouldn't trust them unless you are certain where they came from.

 

2 Sensors from Rock and you'll be sweet.

Back to coolant stuff - the KW 530 298 Kühlmitteltemperatur is a temperature sensor. It appears to be reading ok.

In the chart below your thermostat opens at 185F (the little flat section of coolant temp line at around 17:16).




It's a little higher than standard 82deg C/180degrees farenheight but not by much. Certainly nothing to worry about.
The main thing is your cooling fans are kicking in at 199f and out again at 194f to maintain engine operating temperature.

 

I ordered the two new sensors from Denso.

Also I tried to get another reading from the car, but I was not able to get the app car scanner to record another session.
Any ideas on that?

 

Today I unplugged the battery for one hour and then made another recording. The engine was cold (last drive was 7 hours before). I drove for 10 minutes till the engine was warm. Basically the same outcome. No voltage on bank one sensor one. Bank two sensor sometimes had 0 voltage for very short Times. Mostly when accelerating. The temperature read out did not seem to work, maybe I had the wrong parameters selected in the app?

On my next normal drive the check Engine light came back on again. For the first time in four days. 😖

 

sometimes o2 sensor read 0v. When there is no fuel such ad Decellerating when the computer fmshuts of the fuel. In this case as the computer is relearning its calibration, there will be times where it is lean, and will then increase the fuel to the map.

If an o2 sensor doesn't budge from 0v during a drive it is dead. Occasional bits if 0 is perfectly normal if there is a lean condition of little or no fuel.

Which code is/was triggered?
is it the same?

The temperature readout is definitely unusual, did you swap 'dashboards' in the app?

When you are using a dashboard, the app will only request the info for the sensors selected on that dash.

This is good because it speeds up the sensor reading by only recording the watched sensors. The downside is some data streams stop after changing screens mid trip.

It's no big deal once you know that is how it works.

I use a few dashboards and choose whichever one I want to look at
1. The mega dash with 12 sensors at once. Speed, rpm, engine temp maf (g/s), ignition timing, instant fuel consumption, ltft b1(%)' ltft b2(%), o2b1s1(v), o2b2s1, o2b1s2, o2b2s2(v)
2. The o2 sensors dash - ltftb1 osb1s1, o2b1s2, ltft2, o2b2s1, osb2s2(v)
3. The intake sensors dash - speed, rpm, maf, tps(%), air temp, engine temp
4. Trip computer - speed instant, average speed, rpm, instant fuel (l/100), average fuel, distance travelled

a few tips on car scanner to keep in mind:
there are many sensor parameters that are irrelevant - like 'fuel economizer",

Equally you should pick one or the other from some sensors eg. Fuel consumption vs fuel rate. They effectively tell you the same thing (fuel use) in different ways. I prefer consumption as it is a factor of work done, but fuel rate per hour is perfectly fine if you prefer it. But you don't need both at the same time as it slows the data reading down with duplicated info

When it comes to some sensors there are many possible units options, especially the o2's. Some units are better for diagnosing than others for revealing insights. Here are my preferences

Maf - g's or l/s
tps (%)
o2's (v) you only want the volts
Ltft (%)
engine temp c or f
Speed kmh or mph
fuel use

Another thing you can do as well for viewing the trip data after is view sensor on their own charts and have many at once shown or you get them on the same chart as you have found.

A good thing I'f putting on a combined chart is to use similar range sensors. See in the chart below, the economizer on goes between 0 an 1. It looks flat compared to temperature which is- 20 to +200 ramge So it is better paired with a sensor readin of a smaller range or on its own
There is also data export which will put out a csv file that you can then pit into Excel or other program to drill into the data.

Oh yeah which scantool do you have?

 

Or just do the easy thing and probe the sensors? Check their resistance and continuity, and then do the same for the car side connectors. That will sort this whole issue out much faster by eliminating a lot of hardware Communication variables.

 

@Striker223 Thank you for the tip. Problem is, I dont have a garage or a car port or the right tools ... I am always depend on my mechanic, who is very good and very cheap, and is, because of that, super busy. So, if I call him, I can get an appointment for two or three weeks later. In the meantime I try to find out what the problem is, buy the right parts and read up on the problem, as much as possible.

@Aus430 Thank you for your help and tips. The scantool is called: Neues EXZA HHOBD (Wi-Fi-2020) - Intelligentes OBD2

I just did another read out - and deleted the code - yes it was the same code again. P0125 - nothing else.

I still have problems with the configuration of the app - I am not the best at stuff like that.
Sensor one Bank one - was as before - silent.
I exported the csv and will try to upload it here. Maybe you get a chance to look at it?
Thank you very much!!

 

Ok, I did one more reading today, just focosing on the long term fuel % trim Bank 1 and Bank 2
95% of the time B1 did not do anything. But on some incidents it did work. Should it not either be broken or not broken? How can it sometimes work?

Also Bank 2 did work most of the time, but there were short intervals in between where it also stayed on level 0 - so is it also broken? Also if it works for most of the time?
Or does this mean, that there might be a different problem somewhere? Here are the 5 screenshots of the same chart, where I thought it was very odd.
Especially the last one is strange.