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Hi,
I have a problem with my 2003 LS 430.UL My car doesn't go in reverse sometimes(regardless of engine temperature) .It stays like in neutral .I feel it takes a little jerk when moving reverse. It happens only sometimes but lately the frequency is increasing. Here are few questions I have
1. I have tech stream. Is it possible to get some codes? Does the car need to be in reverse to check. Where exactly I need to check
2. Last time I did a transmission oil change. I am not sure, I think they mechanic overfilled it as I read in the forums here, the total capacity is 8.9L of the transmission and what is 1.8L. (I dont understand). How can be sure the oil is filled as per the specs. Should I fill 1.8L or 8.9 L in the funnel in the transmission
3. Drain and refill. It says I need to drain 1.8 L and fill again 1.8L around 9 times to complete the process.Is that correct.?
Any inputs will be highly appreciated
1) Yes, there are transmission error codes and Techstream can read them. However, you can also have certain transmission problems that don't throw a code.
2) 1.8L is the drain and fill spec. 8.9L is the dry (brand new system) drain and fill spec and/or a torque converter change. Always use your transmission dipstick when transmission fluid is hot. If the fluid level is within the proper range on the stick, then you are good, it doesn't need to be super precise.
3) At 9 times of draining 1.8L and recirculating it through the system, you will have 86.9% new ATF in the system, and a 3.3% improvement over the previous fill (0.8% diminishing return). To get to 100% new ATF in the system, you mathematically (not realistically) need to do 34 changes with full recirculation. You could pull the transmission fluid cooler lines with your car running and do a full fluid exchange in one shot, but this requires 2 people and is more complicated than a pan drain and fill.
It is MUCH easier to simply drain the ATF at every 8000km/5000mi oilchange, and after 2-6 oil changes, the ATF should come out relatively clean. For me, closer to 1.6L than 1.8L comes out during a drain, and note that T-IV bottles come in 1L. Overfilling by 200-400mL isn't a big deal, just use the level-checking dipstick as that is what it is there for, and adjust accordingly on your next few fills. Do not overfill by more than that though, it can definitely cause problems.
1) Yes, there are transmission error codes and Techstream can read them. However, you can also have certain transmission problems that don't throw a code.
2) 1.8L is the drain and fill spec. 8.9L is the dry (brand new system) drain and fill spec and/or a torque converter change. Always use your transmission dipstick when transmission fluid is hot. If the fluid level is within the proper range on the stick, then you are good, it doesn't need to be super precise.
3) At 9 times of draining 1.8L and recirculating it through the system, you will have 86.9% new ATF in the system, and a 3.3% improvement over the previous fill (0.8% diminishing return). To get to 100% new ATF in the system, you mathematically (not realistically) need to do 34 changes with full recirculation. You could pull the transmission fluid cooler lines with your car running and do a full fluid exchange in one shot, but this requires 2 people and is more complicated than a pan drain and fill.
It is MUCH easier to simply drain the ATF at every 8000km/5000mi oilchange, and after 2-6 oil changes, the ATF should come out relatively clean. For me, closer to 1.6L than 1.8L comes out during a drain, and note that T-IV bottles come in 1L. Overfilling by 200-400mL isn't a big deal, just use the level-checking dipstick as that is what it is there for, and adjust accordingly on your next few fills. Do not overfill by more than that though, it can definitely cause problems.
Thank you for your support. I have replaced the fluid the car runs super smooth now while driving but I am still facing a lot of delay while reversing. Some time it works like nothing happen and some times it around 5-6 seconds. How should I fix the problem.
While driving is very smooth only in reverse there is an issue. What do you suggest I do next
Possible causes of delay in shifting to R are:
* Line pressure too low
* Direct clutch worn
* 1st & reverse brake worn
* O/D one-way cluth not operating properly
I assume that there are no DTCs since you have Techstream and didn't mention any codes. If so, then you need to do a hydraulic test and measure your line pressure (2-person job) using the test plug on the right side of the transmission case, and using SST 09992-00095 (09992-00231, 09992-00271).
ATF temp must be hot, 50-80C (122-176F), all 4 wheels chocked, one person watching the wheel chocks, the other person with left foot fully on the brake, shift into R, measure line pressure while at idle, then depress accelerator fully and quickly read the highest line pressure when engine speed reaches stall speed.
At idle, line pressure should be zero, and at stall, line pressure sure be 1655-1960kPA (16.9-20.0kgF/cm2) (240-282psi).
If measured values are higher: check SLT solenoid valve and regulator valve
If measured values are lower: check SLT solenoid valve, regulator valve, oil pump, O/D direct clutch, direct clutch, 1st&reverse brake
Suggest you take it to a nearby Lexus or Toyota dealership, or a shop that specializes in transmissions (preferably in Lexus/Toyota A650E transmissions) for proper testing and repair.
Looks like a big job. I got it checked by a transmission guy and he just took my car in reverse and told me that the clutch is worn. Is it so easy to diagnose without doing any test or is he taking me for a ride. He told me he is going a warranty of one month for the repair. Sorry I am no mechanic so wanted to confirm with you guys
Do dealer charge a lot of checking the issue?
Looks like a big job. I got it checked by a transmission guy and he just took my car in reverse and told me that the clutch is worn. Is it so easy to diagnose without doing any test or is he taking me for a ride. He told me he is going a warranty of one month for the repair. Sorry I am no mechanic so wanted to confirm with you guys
Do dealer charge a lot of checking the issue?
Most Lexus dealers charge a $99 diagnostic fee. Unfortunately (Morning sickness) which describes your delay going into gear, is usually a sign of a failing transmission. I would go with it for another opinion especially for such an expensive repair. Of course you'll use an independent if going forward with any repair. Good luck.
I would definitely get another opinion, and am having a similar delay issue (particularly with reverse gear) on my 03 ls430 (230,000+ miles), however I'm getting a P2757 code with my non-Techstream scan tool. The delay issue goes away after it's warmed up/driven about 5-10 miles then I can shift into reverse without a delay. On another CL thread I read it could be that the A650E transmission seal(s) are getting hard (causing a loss of pressure) but softening up as the engine fluids warm up, so I'm following this thread among others. The P2757 code indicates the line pressure control solenoid (the SLT solenoid?) is stuck open and may need to be replaced, so it seems my issue is perhaps slightly different than plckid and maybe should be in a different thread (please advise me, I'm a new member) but this was the closest thread I found to my issue. I would appreciate any suggestions/thoughts/direction also.
Not going in reverse sometimes
