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So I try to take the car out for a spin every 3 or 4 days to keep the battery up but today it was dead. I had the battery tested and the alternator is working ok (as of 2 months ago) so I'm wondering what is dragging the battery down. I notice the security light and smart key light are flashing all the time when the car is not running. I pressed the smart key off button to take this out of the picture.
Is the security system being active enough to kill the battery in 3 to 4 days? Any thoughts on another reason for So much drain? Thanks
So I try to take the car out for a spin every 3 or 4 days to keep the battery up but today it was dead. I had the battery tested and the alternator is working ok (as of 2 months ago) so I'm wondering what is dragging the battery down. I notice the security light and smart key light are flashing all the time when the car is not running. I pressed the smart key off button to take this out of the picture.
Is the security system being active enough to kill the battery in 3 to 4 days? Any thoughts on another reason for So much drain? Thanks
Where do you store the Smart Key when the car is parked?
If it's within range the key constantly communicates with the car. Store the key at least 15 to 20 feet away.
The big bugaboo for me is not having all the doors completely closed, which causes interior lights to stay on and voi la the battery goes dead. Make sure all doors are closed even after you get a new battery.
So I just finished charging the battery then started the car. It turned over like i was starting it on a cold morning in the dead of winter. I put a Volt meter across the battery terminals while running and i get around 14.3 volts so I'm thinking the alternator is working but the battery is ng.
So I just finished charging the battery then started the car. It turned over like i was starting it on a cold morning in the dead of winter. I put a Volt meter across the battery terminals while running and i get around 14.3 volts so I'm thinking the alternator is working but the battery is ng.
Remember HS physics, v = ir. I believe this is why so many complaints with battery tenders, where users say the light was green, yet car cannot start (this is on a bad battery, that is--good battery maintained on a tender of course is going to start the car). Web seems to say the green light means the proper voltage was reached.
On bad batteries, voltage can be OK, but the resistance is high, so no current.
TominPT, I used to have a Subaru that when I closed the hatch, I would find out the next day that the car wouldn't start because while the hatch appeared closed, it wasn't thoroughly closed and that rear dome light drew battery. It wasn't a big deal because I would just pull out the jumper box and be on my way. Eventually I just changed the dome switch from "automatic on" to "manual on."
Battery dead again
