Fed up with f-ing steering wheel shake!!!
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Joined: Dec 2018
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From: Ohio
Fed up with f-ing steering wheel shake!!!
I’ve had my Lexus a little over 3 years. It’s currently at 189k. When I bought it it had wheel shake at 40mph. I put new tires on it (Nitto motivo) new steering rack bushings. New sway bar end links, new rear lower control arm bushings, I’ve had the front tires road force balanced, it’s been aligned. Today I’ve just had it. It has Monroe oe spectrum struts on it now, mileage unknown but I think they are worn since I get some bad nose dive. It still shakes but now at 65 ish mph and sometimes I think the tires flat spot so it’s worse than other times. Today I ordered new Monroe quick struts and new upper a arms to start replacing some things and hopefully solve a clunking/rattle issue that’s either ball joint or strut mount related from the drivers side front. I hope to put that on this weekend maybe. Apart from trying new tires what else should I do? I got a $1200 stimulus check to throw at this *****, help covid19 fix my wheel vibration!
Last edited by Trilkb; May 14, 2020 at 08:39 AM.
Lexus Champion
Joined: Oct 2019
Posts: 18,452
Likes: 1,809
From: Ohio
You should have started with tie rods both inner and outer, from there check the arm bushings and then strut mounts and rack mounts. It may be wheel bearings as well since they sometimes fail and you can't hear them but it will feel like a wheel is out of balance
Thread Starter
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Joined: Dec 2018
Posts: 336
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From: Ohio
It’s probably everything lol. I just figured at my mileage it’s likely all going to need replaced. I get no wheel play or noises when checking in and out movement top and bottom and at 3/9 o’clock everything seems normal. Thanks for suggesting tie rod ends. In 3 years it’s never been smooth on the highway at highway speed at 80 it’s fine. But right around 65 to 70 it’s pretty bad and at times I can let go and the steering wheel shakes maybe 3/8 inch.
Lexus Champion
Joined: Oct 2019
Posts: 18,452
Likes: 1,809
From: Ohio
It’s probably everything lol. I just figured at my mileage it’s likely all going to need replaced. I get no wheel play or noises when checking in and out movement top and bottom and at 3/9 o’clock everything seems normal. Thanks for suggesting tie rod ends. In 3 years it’s never been smooth on the highway at highway speed at 80 it’s fine. But right around 65 to 70 it’s pretty bad and at times I can let go and the steering wheel shakes maybe 3/8 inch.
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Joined: May 2018
Posts: 647
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From: Ct
To this day, my 430 has only rode PERFECTLY on the highway for a few months and that was after installing 4 new Pirelli tires, getting them road force balanced, and then having Lexus align my car.
About 2 months later the vibration was back. I’ve since rebuilt the entire front end, cost me almost $1500. New struts, new tie rods (inner and outer), new ball joints, control arm bushings and steering rack bushings. This is on top of the inordinate cost of new tires, having them rebalanced constantly, and new alignments.
I finally put my car up for sale the other day because of it. Just going to keep my LS400, I think it’s the better car anyway honestly.
Not trying to be negative here but just saying, I could have been many thousands of dollars richer if I hadn’t chased a problem blindly. Don’t be like me. Lol
About 2 months later the vibration was back. I’ve since rebuilt the entire front end, cost me almost $1500. New struts, new tie rods (inner and outer), new ball joints, control arm bushings and steering rack bushings. This is on top of the inordinate cost of new tires, having them rebalanced constantly, and new alignments.
I finally put my car up for sale the other day because of it. Just going to keep my LS400, I think it’s the better car anyway honestly.
Not trying to be negative here but just saying, I could have been many thousands of dollars richer if I hadn’t chased a problem blindly. Don’t be like me. Lol
Thread Starter
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Joined: Dec 2018
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From: Ohio
Ok so as far as parts related to vibration I will be doing inner and outer the rods. That will be my stopping point. Lower control arms/ball joints will be preventative maintenance and then I'm calling it quits and just living with it.
I've heard of tie rods causing alignments to "wear off" over time. Perhaps when you got your car aligned lexus tightened everything for awhile then after 3 months it loosened up (more wear) and your vibration came back? But yea who knows, inner and outer tie rods will be the end of this journey lol.
I've heard of tie rods causing alignments to "wear off" over time. Perhaps when you got your car aligned lexus tightened everything for awhile then after 3 months it loosened up (more wear) and your vibration came back? But yea who knows, inner and outer tie rods will be the end of this journey lol.
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Lexus Test Driver
Joined: Sep 2016
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From: PA
haha that would be annoying. Mine did that when I got it, and front brakes were brand new so not pulsation from brakes. I had the LCA bushings replaced and that didn't fix anything. I bumped a curb so I said oh **** now I better align the car. There was not a single green value, and when it came back, all was green except rear camber, they were just out like -1.9 each side. Mysteriously never any shaking since. But I get that not every issue is that simple...that difference is like having a new car or feeling like you have a different car.
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From: Ca
Ok so as far as parts related to vibration I will be doing inner and outer the rods. That will be my stopping point. Lower control arms/ball joints will be preventative maintenance and then I'm calling it quits and just living with it.
I've heard of tie rods causing alignments to "wear off" over time. Perhaps when you got your car aligned lexus tightened everything for awhile then after 3 months it loosened up (more wear) and your vibration came back? But yea who knows, inner and outer tie rods will be the end of this journey lol.
I've heard of tie rods causing alignments to "wear off" over time. Perhaps when you got your car aligned lexus tightened everything for awhile then after 3 months it loosened up (more wear) and your vibration came back? But yea who knows, inner and outer tie rods will be the end of this journey lol.
Thread Starter
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Joined: Dec 2018
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From: Ohio
Advanced
Joined: Dec 2017
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From: FL
Our front subframe does not have any cushions built in, which I believe is a huge mistake from engineers. Engine mounts, tires, some suspension elements and metal itself start causing the chain of vibrations which ultimately cause steering wheel shake.
Due to the fact that there are no cushions out there to dampen those vibrations, I may only suggest to look at installing custom rubber dampers (which I am about to do this weekend myself) ONLY IF ALL other factors are being considered - meaning you installed QUALITY parts in the bushings, ball joint and tie rod area. Chinese parts from wholesale discounted websites do not count here as they definitely contribute to overall vibrations.
I used to have steering wheel shake on high speeds. Changing tires from junk Falken to Kumho fixed it for 95 percent. The rest comfort level was achieved by a suspension reset and quality parts in the suspension and PrOPER installation.
sorry for caps lock.
Due to the fact that there are no cushions out there to dampen those vibrations, I may only suggest to look at installing custom rubber dampers (which I am about to do this weekend myself) ONLY IF ALL other factors are being considered - meaning you installed QUALITY parts in the bushings, ball joint and tie rod area. Chinese parts from wholesale discounted websites do not count here as they definitely contribute to overall vibrations.
I used to have steering wheel shake on high speeds. Changing tires from junk Falken to Kumho fixed it for 95 percent. The rest comfort level was achieved by a suspension reset and quality parts in the suspension and PrOPER installation.
sorry for caps lock.
Lexus Test Driver
Joined: Sep 2016
Posts: 8,582
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From: PA
I dont do car payments/loans/forced full coverage insurance and Im not willing to part with that much money right now. Over the course of ownership the cost to maintain this car has been low. I bought it and did timing belt, steering rack bushings and new tires, then new front brakes, the sway bar end links and rear lower control arm bushings. This next maintenance blast will be the monroe quick struts, inner and outer tie rod ends. I do all my own work as well so I have zero labor in this car except for 1 alignment. To me its worth throwing money into it because I know its reliability and where it stands and it should go to 225k miles with maybe a few unforseen issues like wheel bearings. A/c Blows cold, heat works, its just this stupid steering wheel vibration. On top of that its my 3rd car that is the daily driver but I do drive the toys a lot too. Id rather part with $500-750 than 5-10 grand or a picking up a monthly payment for 4 years right now.
The part I'm missing is you're saying parting with $500-$700. I thought we were talking transmission right off the bat. You could always simply drive as is, that's the cheapest route.
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From: Ohio
Or just buy a used car that you can buy outright. The LS430 was the first car I didn't finance that cost over $2,000. Maybe I was foolish in that a 2014 Camry cost the same amount used, with 35,000 miles, in 10/16. I went for the 2006 with 80,900. vanity or wanting perceived prestige or luxury. My buddy said getting rid of that is liberating (like if you had bought the Camry, you'd be good until 2034). Comes from a been there/done that perspective, though, he had a XJ-S and a LS400 and a LS430....to keep it real one of his driving factors is he got divorced. Changed how he looks at things.
The part I'm missing is you're saying parting with $500-$700. I thought we were talking transmission right off the bat. You could always simply drive as is, that's the cheapest route.
The part I'm missing is you're saying parting with $500-$700. I thought we were talking transmission right off the bat. You could always simply drive as is, that's the cheapest route.
Thread Starter
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Joined: Dec 2018
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From: Ohio
Yea OEM 17's.
@ls430w140 I consider moog and ac delco to be quality parts. Front upper control arms going in are Moog Brand. Tie rod inner/outer will be moog or ac delco.
@ls430w140 I consider moog and ac delco to be quality parts. Front upper control arms going in are Moog Brand. Tie rod inner/outer will be moog or ac delco.