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Dayton Sub Install Problems

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Old Mar 20, 2019 | 09:57 PM
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Default Dayton Sub Install Problems

2001 LS430UL Mark Levinson W/Nav...So...I installed my new Dayton, bridged to 16 ohms, did the cut up the back deck removal and install, utilized the OEM sub connector, hooked it all back up, bolted it in, before testing like an idiot, now neither the sub or the speakers in the back deck are working at all. They were all working with the old blown Mark Levinson sub in there. Feeling extremely defeated right now. Been sad all day about it...any suggestions? I’m pretty sure my wiring held, of course I’m prepared to pull it again but can anyone think of something stupid I may have missed?

Thanks in advance.
Nate
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Old Mar 21, 2019 | 01:39 AM
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There aren’t any other speakers in the back deck — if the speakers in all four doors are still working then you’re good.

Which just leaves the new sub. Since you did the easier install method of cutting the rear deck, it shouldn’t be too bad to just remove the sub cover, take the sub back out and check the wiring
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Old Mar 21, 2019 | 06:48 AM
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Did ya solder the connectors or use crimp connectors? Crimps are crap for audio stuff.
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Old Mar 21, 2019 | 12:47 PM
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Originally Posted by BigBoomer
Did ya solder the connectors or use crimp connectors? Crimps are crap for audio stuff.
I did not solder...I was lazy...which may mean one of my slide on connecters came loose, which while embarrassing, will be good news.
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Old Mar 21, 2019 | 02:22 PM
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Originally Posted by Peacebay
There aren’t any other speakers in the back deck — if the speakers in all four doors are still working then you’re good.

Which just leaves the new sub. Since you did the easier install method of cutting the rear deck, it shouldn’t be too bad to just remove the sub cover, take the sub back out and check the wiring
Ok, that helps. There are what look like speaker vents on that back deck but if they are not speakers that means I probably just messed up my wiring job bolting it in. So, that gives me hope. Thanks
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Old Mar 21, 2019 | 05:14 PM
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I'm sure you've got this right, but double check the polarity of your wiring. That is, the Yellow wire from the amp goes to the "+" terminal of the first set of input to the speaker. The "-" terminal from the first set of input goes to the "+" terminal of the second set of input. Then finally, the "-" terminal from the second set of input goes to the Green wire back to the amp.

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Old Mar 23, 2019 | 03:43 PM
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Talking Fixed it!!!!!!

So, due to my laziness, in the form of not soldering, one of my connections came loose during my excited nighttime installation. Redid connection, Dayton is doing it's job!! I AM IN LOVE!

That being said, from what I understand, if I wire it to 8ohms it will hit harder? But risk hurting the amp...I see a lot of people on here running 8ohms...was very tempted to remove my bridge..however, I want to keep the stock system running top notch so, I will leave it as is, and if I feel so desperate for more bass, I'll add a box. For now, again I'll say, I AM IN LOVE!

Rode around the neighborhood, with the windows down, sunroof open, blasting Kool and the Gangs, Jungle Boogie and Dusty Springfield's version of Son of a Preacher Man.

It felt oh so good!

Thanks again!
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Old Mar 23, 2019 | 04:12 PM
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Excellent. Soldered the connections this time?
If ya want more bass, just turn up the bass in the sound settings.
If you only use one coil to get 8ohms then you will lose bass, not gain.
If you parallel the 2 coils you'll get lots more bass but 4ohms so the amp won't last long.
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