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I can't take it any longer. I'm pulling the rear sub out and dropping in an 8 inch P3 dual 4 ohm sub today. Didn't want to repair the original or by oem to blow later. Wiring correctly for 8 ohm essentially a direct swap.
8 ohm rated sub should work OK. 12 or 16 ohm would be safer but harder to find. An 8 ohm sub will play louder. Be be careful with high volume - if you notice that the amp cut out or clip (blat or distorted sound) at higher volumes take it down a notch or risk bricking the sub channel.
Yessir this is just a temp replacement but def no need to play it loud anymore. Sounds so much better on low volumes or I should say lower than previous volumes. Replacing all the door speakers with Hertz and a 4 channel amp and then sometime early 2018 removing the rear deck sub and running a self enclosed ported DD sub in the trunk. This will hold me over till then. Still tweaking the factory settings but it's a nice noticeable difference over oem or the front heavy setting with the blown sub.
Been awhile since I posted a thread... nice to see some older folks are still around.
Anyone tried, replacing the sub via the cover on the upper board?. I thought about pulling
it off, and in case, building a bigger cover... got the massage seats, not sure if i break anything
with the standard way.. (sorry for my austrian english)
I bought a "audiotec Fischer PP8W-Q" with 4 x 3 ohms, qts 0,51
(probably not available in the US)
Replacing sub with Fogate P3
