FL front brake vibration
Instructor
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 1,199
Likes: 215
From: Ontario, Canada
The cause of the wheel hub assembly having excessive free play is regular wear and tear, and exacerbated by off-roading, curb jumping, smashing through potholes, etc.
The OEM LS430 wheels are hub-centric, which is an infinitely better design than using lug-centric wheels. If you have aftermarket wheels that are lug-centric (meaning they are not hub-centric), you MUST get the proper sized plastic hub-centering rings to keep your wheels true to the hub. Without hub centering rings with lug-centric wheels, you are asking for all kinds of balancing and vibration issues, which can translate to accelerated wear on your wheel hubs/bearings, multiple suspension components, and uneven wearing of your brake discs.
The OEM LS430 wheels are hub-centric, which is an infinitely better design than using lug-centric wheels. If you have aftermarket wheels that are lug-centric (meaning they are not hub-centric), you MUST get the proper sized plastic hub-centering rings to keep your wheels true to the hub. Without hub centering rings with lug-centric wheels, you are asking for all kinds of balancing and vibration issues, which can translate to accelerated wear on your wheel hubs/bearings, multiple suspension components, and uneven wearing of your brake discs.
The cause of the wheel hub assembly having excessive free play is regular wear and tear, and exacerbated by off-roading, curb jumping, smashing through potholes, etc.
The OEM LS430 wheels are hub-centric, which is an infinitely better design than using lug-centric wheels. If you have aftermarket wheels that are lug-centric (meaning they are not hub-centric), you MUST get the proper sized plastic hub-centering rings to keep your wheels true to the hub. Without hub centering rings with lug-centric wheels, you are asking for all kinds of balancing and vibration issues, which can translate to accelerated wear on your wheel hubs/bearings, multiple suspension components, and uneven wearing of your brake discs.
The OEM LS430 wheels are hub-centric, which is an infinitely better design than using lug-centric wheels. If you have aftermarket wheels that are lug-centric (meaning they are not hub-centric), you MUST get the proper sized plastic hub-centering rings to keep your wheels true to the hub. Without hub centering rings with lug-centric wheels, you are asking for all kinds of balancing and vibration issues, which can translate to accelerated wear on your wheel hubs/bearings, multiple suspension components, and uneven wearing of your brake discs.
Instructor
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 1,199
Likes: 215
From: Ontario, Canada
That is easy to answer - look at the backside of the wheel (the part touching the inside of the car) and see if the opening fits on the wheel hub protrusion or if it is visibly larger. If the opening on the backside doesn't look like it will sit exactly on the hub, then you have lug-centric wheels.
Another way to see is to just mount the wheel onto the car. Then look at the wheel studs through the holes - if the wheel sits on the studs and you can move the wheel vertically, then your wheel is not centered on the hub, which means you have lug-centric wheels, and therefore you will need hub centering rings for optimal balancing.
A third way is to ask the wheel vendor if they are lug-centric or hub-centric. Any competent seller will know the answer. And if not, ask if the wheel bore is 60.06 or not. If it measures 60.06, then you have a hub-centric wheel.
For my aftermarket winter wheels, they required centering rings sized 73 x 60.06mm. First number is diameter of the aftermarket wheel bore size (hub ring outer diameter), second number is the vehicle's hub size (hub ring inner diameter). The reason I recommend plastic rings (instead of metal) is due to rust/corrosion - metal rings could fuse to either of the mating surfaces. Nothing wrong with plastic rings, been using the same ones for 9 years of Canadian winters.
Another way to see is to just mount the wheel onto the car. Then look at the wheel studs through the holes - if the wheel sits on the studs and you can move the wheel vertically, then your wheel is not centered on the hub, which means you have lug-centric wheels, and therefore you will need hub centering rings for optimal balancing.
A third way is to ask the wheel vendor if they are lug-centric or hub-centric. Any competent seller will know the answer. And if not, ask if the wheel bore is 60.06 or not. If it measures 60.06, then you have a hub-centric wheel.
For my aftermarket winter wheels, they required centering rings sized 73 x 60.06mm. First number is diameter of the aftermarket wheel bore size (hub ring outer diameter), second number is the vehicle's hub size (hub ring inner diameter). The reason I recommend plastic rings (instead of metal) is due to rust/corrosion - metal rings could fuse to either of the mating surfaces. Nothing wrong with plastic rings, been using the same ones for 9 years of Canadian winters.
That is easy to answer - look at the backside of the wheel (the part touching the inside of the car) and see if the opening fits on the wheel hub protrusion or if it is visibly larger. If the opening on the backside doesn't look like it will sit exactly on the hub, then you have lug-centric wheels.
Another way to see is to just mount the wheel onto the car. Then look at the wheel studs through the holes - if the wheel sits on the studs and you can move the wheel vertically, then your wheel is not centered on the hub, which means you have lug-centric wheels, and therefore you will need hub centering rings for optimal balancing.
A third way is to ask the wheel vendor if they are lug-centric or hub-centric. Any competent seller will know the answer. And if not, ask if the wheel bore is 60.06 or not. If it measures 60.06, then you have a hub-centric wheel.
For my aftermarket winter wheels, they required centering rings sized 73 x 60.06mm. First number is diameter of the aftermarket wheel bore size (hub ring outer diameter), second number is the vehicle's hub size (hub ring inner diameter). The reason I recommend plastic rings (instead of metal) is due to rust/corrosion - metal rings could fuse to either of the mating surfaces. Nothing wrong with plastic rings, been using the same ones for 9 years of Canadian winters.
Another way to see is to just mount the wheel onto the car. Then look at the wheel studs through the holes - if the wheel sits on the studs and you can move the wheel vertically, then your wheel is not centered on the hub, which means you have lug-centric wheels, and therefore you will need hub centering rings for optimal balancing.
A third way is to ask the wheel vendor if they are lug-centric or hub-centric. Any competent seller will know the answer. And if not, ask if the wheel bore is 60.06 or not. If it measures 60.06, then you have a hub-centric wheel.
For my aftermarket winter wheels, they required centering rings sized 73 x 60.06mm. First number is diameter of the aftermarket wheel bore size (hub ring outer diameter), second number is the vehicle's hub size (hub ring inner diameter). The reason I recommend plastic rings (instead of metal) is due to rust/corrosion - metal rings could fuse to either of the mating surfaces. Nothing wrong with plastic rings, been using the same ones for 9 years of Canadian winters.
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