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Constant correction could point to bad wheel alignment. The wheel shimmy could be wheel balance or a separated tire.
Have you tested for looseness with the car at ride height? What I do is jack the car up in the center and then put jack stands under the lower control arms as far out as I can. I then lower the car so the wheels are off of the ground but the suspension is loaded and at ride height. Now you can do the pry bar and 3 to 9 and 12 to 6 tests. When I did this with my car I thought I saw a little play in the lower ball joints. I replaced them with Beck/Arnley units from Rock Auto. The noise changed with the new joints but didn't go away. Now after about 4k miles the noise and looseness is really bad. The oe joints didn't show and play after I removed them but they definitely would have failed the service manual diagnostic procedure. I've put more wear and tear on my suspension in the last 3k miles in Denver than I did in the last 30k in Phoenix.
Constant correction could point to bad wheel alignment. The wheel shimmy could be wheel balance or a separated tire.
Have you tested for looseness with the car at ride height? What I do is jack the car up in the center and then put jack stands under the lower control arms as far out as I can. I then lower the car so the wheels are off of the ground but the suspension is loaded and at ride height. Now you can do the pry bar and 3 to 9 and 12 to 6 tests. When I did this with my car I thought I saw a little play in the lower ball joints. I replaced them with Beck/Arnley units from Rock Auto. The noise changed with the new joints but didn't go away. Now after about 4k miles the noise and looseness is really bad. The oe joints didn't show and play after I removed them but they definitely would have failed the service manual diagnostic procedure. I've put more wear and tear on my suspension in the last 3k miles in Denver than I did in the last 30k in Phoenix.
I haven't tested for play at ride height. I can try that tonight.
So, it sounds like ball joints weren't the answer for you then?
LS may generate a solid clunk in a wheel hub if this part is worn. Long time ago my car had symptoms similar to your description. I replaced front wheel bearing hub assemblies and the clunk was completely gone. Also, I had similar problem in the rear. I could hear annoying and loud single clunk as soon as I lower the car from the jack stands. I do not know exactly what was happening to wheel bearings, but i just assume the mass of the vehicle could contribute.
Did you have repeated clunks over rough surfaces? or just the one clunk and then it would stop?
Just an FYI for anyone in the future...I realized after replacing my sway bar end link that my ride got significantly worse after a day or two.
When I got under the car to check everything the top end of the sway bar link had slid completely off the bushing and was totally unattached!!
PSA: make sure you put the large washer on the same side as the nut, not the side of the sway bar!! Yikes...rookie mistake. Felt really dumb after I realized what I did.
Anyway...still having the clunk.
So far, U-joint and wheel bearing are the two front runners...
I’ve had my car for a little over a week. It’s a 2005 UL. I noticed I was getting more of a “binding snap” when I turned corners. It was definitely the front. I was fortunate, in that I was assigned to the most senior tech they had (23 years). He spent an hour or so reproducing the noise. He torqued almost all the front end connections, before finding loose bolts on the steering rack. Cost me one hour in labor charges. Hope your car is something simple and inexpensive as well.
I noticed on your photo that you have the original telescopic cable. Attached is the Technical Service Bulletin on replacing it with an "Universal Joint" coupling to eliminate noise. See Steps 9 thru 12 on the TSB.
ok so i jacked up the car and let it down on jack stands under the each of the control arms close to the wheels. I still don't feel play in the wheel per say.
Then i put my key in so i could turn the wheel and when i rock back and forth i get a loud clunk. this could be it. seems to be coming from the rack and pinion...could the u joint but it is hard to tell. i still don't feel play in the u joint...maybe the tiniest bit but that might be in my mind
i found a noise at least...does every ls430 do this in this situation
ok so i jacked up the car and let it down on jack stands under the each of the control arms close to the wheels. I still don't feel play in the wheel per say.
Then i put my key in so i could turn the wheel and when i rock back and forth i get a loud clunk. this could be it. seems to be coming from the rack and pinion...could the u joint but it is hard to tell. i still don't feel play in the u joint...maybe the tiniest bit but that might be in my mind
i found a noise at least...does every ls430 do this in this situation
I am pretty sure its your u joints man the needles inside the caps are probably worn out pretty bad test the caps individually and see if they have excessive play in them, like wiggle them side to side there should be 0 play in them side to side.
I noticed on your photo that you have the original telescopic cable. Attached is the Technical Service Bulletin on replacing it with an "Universal Joint" coupling to eliminate noise. See Steps 9 thru 12 on the TSB.
Oh great, now do I do that too? But it seems my serial # is outside that range in the STB. Mine is JTHBN36F740126819 this applies only out to JTHBN36F040141419. "Whew"
Thanks though...or thats how I read it
Oh great, now do I do that too? But it seems my serial # is outside that range in the STB. Mine is JTHBN36F740126819 this applies only out to JTHBN36F040141419. "Whew"
Thanks though...or thats how I read it
That's how I would read it too - Your VIN is not subject to the TSB.
Just an FYI for anyone in the future...I realized after replacing my sway bar end link that my ride got significantly worse after a day or two.
When I got under the car to check everything the top end of the sway bar link had slid completely off the bushing and was totally unattached!!
PSA: make sure you put the large washer on the same side as the nut, not the side of the sway bar!! Yikes...rookie mistake. Felt really dumb after I realized what I did.
Anyway...still having the clunk.
So far, U-joint and wheel bearing are the two front runners...
As an aside, I never noticed anything on my Maxima as far as ride degradation, but I go to swap a LF tire last fall, and the entire sway bar end link rusted off and was broken and detatched (I'm thinking, not all cars had sway bars in the old days)! Also, these were replaced on my wife's car both sides (stupid safety inspection, the muffler shop doing it thought they were going to make a ton of money off of us, but I revealed oh if all that needs replacement, I might as well take it to the dealer as it's under warranty--shoulda seen the look on the guys face), no difference....I'm just wondering if u joints going bad is normal, outside of an accident...I have heard of it on BMW due to a seal on the rack leaking, but not on too many other cars...
