Tire fiasco
However, after 3 years of owning my 02 I haven't let any other person touch the car.. I've done everything that needed to be done.. all fluids.. whatever..
So I dreaded having a tire tech touch the car and I was right.. They chipped up my wheels during the install then handed my car back to me with a bad creaking noise that you could hear over bumps at low speed.. creaking from the driver side rear. I was pre-occupied with the new cigarette smell in my car.. so I didn't go back in immediately.. I brushed it off because I know they really don't care anyway.
After thinking I suddenly had suspension problems, coincidentally after going to Good year, I took my rear wheels off to put on snow tires.. I could not get the lugs off with all my body weight.. The dipshnitz torqued the lugs on with superman strength.
After finally getting the lugs off with a friggen breaker bar and re-tightening to proper specs.. the creaking sound was gone.
Moral of the story is don't let anyone touch your ride if possible. I think an investment in a tire installation device with balancer would be well worth it.
Moral of the story is to take pictures of your rims before installation and remind the service manager that you are paying attention.
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I just take everything to the dealer like oil tires and brakes tires though I do have a couple of side mechanics I trust. I got the Comfortreds from Sears. Techs did not tighten the rear wheel enough, thought I had a driveline issue, they where clueless. Toyota techs charged me 50 bucks for diagnosis and tightening, Sears paid the bill.
Enjoy the Comfytreds they are a nice cruising tire. I actually thought they where a little crisper handling than the MXv4
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I made 7-8 bucks an hour out of high school in in 1977 working at steel, paper mills before I went to school to be a brain surgeon, lol. Chevy Vega was 2600 bucks new. Houses where 30 grand.
Now 40 years later a tire monkey makes $10-12 to live in poverty because everyone wants cheap tires and there is little money in the actual tires. The older techs prolly get tired of the entitlement attitude of todays workers.
On the SC300, however, that is a whole different deal with coil overs, lowering, wide staggered setup and racing tires. The research of a reputable suspension/wheel shop was well worth it and while not always the lowest cost option but the piece of mind balances out the expense. That shop now is the only place to take the cars for any special needs.
However, no excuse for the chipped wheel, the smoke smell in your car or and the over torque, I too would have gone to the high side on that.
Discount Tire's are the only people besides me that have touched MY 2001 LS with 214K on the clock.
I took a tire off about a month ago to check brakes. I ended up snapping a stud to get the lug off. I went ahead and replaced that stud and lug. Took it back to Discount to have a very one sided conversation not about that it happened when they put the tire on but that they didn't tell me there was an issue.
I only replaced the snapped stud and lug, and when I put the lugs back on (I’m not your average DYI guy) I know that I didn't cross thread and torqued to spec. When I was putting the tire back on, I did have a lug that didn’t want to go on, I took that lug back off, hit with a bit of lubricant and it went right back on as it should have.
After the one sided conversation with Discount, the store manage stated that they are starting to see some of this on older cars, face saving on his part I thought at the time. While Discount was rotating the tires they had an issue with the lugs on the left front that I had put on. They brought me out into the shop and I watched them snap another one off. So I know that it wasn’t them, as I put that tire on last.
I think being that LS owners are so faithful about rotating tires, we are or will start seeing more studs and lug nuts not getting along/failing in the future. After snapping 2 studs off on the left front, I went ahead and replaced all studs and lugs on that wheel. I have the replacements for the right front sitting on the toolbox, just haven't got around to doing it yet... And wondering if I should not do the rear as well, as an ounce of prevention.
My advice, if you have one stud fail on a wheel, replace them all on that wheel. They (Good Year / Discount / whoever, me included) do not put the lugs back on the same studs they come off of, so if a lug or stud that has a screwed up thread, that issue goes to other lugs and studs on that wheel as rotations happen.
I do agree with your moral of the story, if you want to know that it’s done right, the only way you will truly know is to do it yourself. With the exception of this I have had great results with Discount adding this wasn’t their issue, it just happened….
zapola6, have you ever changed the front wheel bearing hub assembly? (hubs come with new lugs of course) With 214K miles, if you're still on the OEM front hubs, that's quite good. While it's usually a no-no to put any lube on dry torque spec bolts, on old wheel lugs, I have placed a little grease on them to prevent seizing and lug breakage. A little extra torque that may/will result from the lubed lug will not be of any consequence.
zapola6, have you ever changed the front wheel bearing hub assembly? (hubs come with new lugs of course) With 214K miles, if you're still on the OEM front hubs, that's quite good. While it's usually a no-no to put any lube on dry torque spec bolts, on old wheel lugs, I have placed a little grease on them to prevent seizing and lug breakage. A little extra torque that may/will result from the lubed lug will not be of any consequence.
Didn't even think about new hubs, guessing at some point they will be in my future. I think I will wait and see what things bring me in the way of how long the hubs last before I replace and more studs.
Good Advice and thanks for the input.....
Steve











