DIY - LCA Ball Joint Replacement
Lower control arms and ball joints should do the job. On the lower arm, one bushing is replaceable one is not. So if both bushing are shot replace the whole arm. If the big bushing is the only one this can be replaced on its own. Also, if the 3 motor mounts have never been done I'm sure they need it too. Don't forget to align the car after.
Last edited by Lavrishevo; May 11, 2015 at 12:55 PM.
Pit Crew
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 120
Likes: 2
From: TX
Lower control arms and ball joints should do the job. On the lower arm, one bushing is replaceable one is not. So if both bushing are shot replace the whole arm. If the big bushing is the only one this can be replaced on its own. Also, if the 3 motor mounts have never been done I'm sure they need it too. Don't forget to align the car after.
Now, if I order the the LCAs, so I need to order the bushings separately, or do they come mounted on the LCAs?
Thanks!
Pit Crew
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 120
Likes: 2
From: TX
Any other thoughts on stabilizer bar components?
I hope the upper control arms aren't an issue. I've noticed their price is twice that of LCAs...
I think your just going to have to inspect uca's and check for play and / or deterioration in the upper arms but they are not common. The front lowers seem to take most of the abuse. Between motor mounts, lower arms, and ball joints this will help a lot. Replacing the front and rear sway bar bushes helps with swaying of course and tracking when driving.
Pit Crew
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 120
Likes: 2
From: TX
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Racer
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 1,761
Likes: 248
From: AZ
You might be able to find an aftermarket poly sway bushing that's a lot firmer, but I wouldn't recommend poly anything on an LS.
The rear factory "sport" sway bar from Lexus is a nice, inexpensive upgrade to the handling that has almost zero ride penalty.
Driver
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 102
Likes: 0
From: WA
Help. Did I wreck inner knuckle threads?
For what was supposed to be such an easy DIY, it's looking like I screwed the pooch. I need some help.
I'm nearly done replacing my LBJ and am trying to reinsert the last 2 assembly bolts, torqued at 83 ft lb. I didn't get the new joint lined up very well with the knuckle and for some reason thought to start tightening down anyway. I thought through the course of tightening that the joint and knuckle would slowly start to line up. Unfortunately that wasn't the case. I hit 83 ft lb only half way screwed in. I'm feelin' like a moron at this point.
I've since realized you can make adjustments to the joint such that it lines up with the knuckle just fine. I have it lined up now in fact. But the bolts won't screw in any further. they start getting really tight really quickly. I'm afraid I've cross threaded and done some damage. So the questions are:
1) Have I cross threaded? Or is this something else?
2) If cross threaded, Is it likely the bolts or the knuckle that is damaged?
3) If the threads inside the knuckle are damaged, is a fix possible? Or is replacement of the knuckle necessary?
I've replace the hub, rotor and LCA bushing on this side of the car already with great success. Feeling like a newb at this point despite that. What can/should I do? Appreciate the help!
I'm nearly done replacing my LBJ and am trying to reinsert the last 2 assembly bolts, torqued at 83 ft lb. I didn't get the new joint lined up very well with the knuckle and for some reason thought to start tightening down anyway. I thought through the course of tightening that the joint and knuckle would slowly start to line up. Unfortunately that wasn't the case. I hit 83 ft lb only half way screwed in. I'm feelin' like a moron at this point.
I've since realized you can make adjustments to the joint such that it lines up with the knuckle just fine. I have it lined up now in fact. But the bolts won't screw in any further. they start getting really tight really quickly. I'm afraid I've cross threaded and done some damage. So the questions are:
1) Have I cross threaded? Or is this something else?
2) If cross threaded, Is it likely the bolts or the knuckle that is damaged?
3) If the threads inside the knuckle are damaged, is a fix possible? Or is replacement of the knuckle necessary?
I've replace the hub, rotor and LCA bushing on this side of the car already with great success. Feeling like a newb at this point despite that. What can/should I do? Appreciate the help!
Last edited by honasbone; Jun 9, 2015 at 11:46 PM.
Rookie
Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 59
Likes: 0
From: TX
For what was supposed to be such an easy DIY, it's looking like I screwed the pooch. I need some help.
I'm nearly done replacing my LBJ and am trying to reinsert the last 2 assembly bolts, torqued at 83 ft lb. I didn't get the new joint lined up very well with the knuckle and for some reason thought to start tightening down anyway. I thought through the course of tightening that the joint and knuckle would slowly start to line up. Unfortunately that wasn't the case. I hit 83 ft lb only half way screwed in. I'm feelin' like a moron at this point.
I've since realized you can make adjustments to the joint such that it lines up with the knuckle just fine. I have it lined up now in fact. But the bolts won't screw in any further. they start getting really tight really quickly. I'm afraid I've cross threaded and done some damage. So the questions are:
1) Have I cross threaded? Or is this something else?
2) If cross threaded, Is it likely the bolts or the knuckle that is damaged?
3) If the threads inside the knuckle are damaged, is a fix possible? Or is replacement of the knuckle necessary?
I've replace the hub, rotor and LCA bushing on this side of the car already with great success. Feeling like a newb at this point despite that. What can/should I do? Appreciate the help!
I'm nearly done replacing my LBJ and am trying to reinsert the last 2 assembly bolts, torqued at 83 ft lb. I didn't get the new joint lined up very well with the knuckle and for some reason thought to start tightening down anyway. I thought through the course of tightening that the joint and knuckle would slowly start to line up. Unfortunately that wasn't the case. I hit 83 ft lb only half way screwed in. I'm feelin' like a moron at this point.
I've since realized you can make adjustments to the joint such that it lines up with the knuckle just fine. I have it lined up now in fact. But the bolts won't screw in any further. they start getting really tight really quickly. I'm afraid I've cross threaded and done some damage. So the questions are:
1) Have I cross threaded? Or is this something else?
2) If cross threaded, Is it likely the bolts or the knuckle that is damaged?
3) If the threads inside the knuckle are damaged, is a fix possible? Or is replacement of the knuckle necessary?
I've replace the hub, rotor and LCA bushing on this side of the car already with great success. Feeling like a newb at this point despite that. What can/should I do? Appreciate the help!
I would remove the problem one and see if you can thread the nut in by hand. This will let you know if it's cross-threaded. If it is, you can get an impact gun and put it in all the way, this will create a new thread so to speak. Ideally you'd use a tap and die to do this, but I have used the above method before with success. You could always take it to a machine shop and have them do this too.
Driver
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 102
Likes: 0
From: WA
I have tried threading by hand directly into the knuckle, bypassing the joint. It's definitely cross threaded.
If I took it to a machine shop, is removing the knuckle a straight forward job? I'm assuming the wheel hub and brakes need to come off, and that it needs to be detached from the upper suspension (is that the upper control arm?). Anything else special I'd need to know about it?
Is it okay to have the knuckle rethreaded? I mean, however it gets done, is it safe on the road after this kind of work is performed?
If I took it to a machine shop, is removing the knuckle a straight forward job? I'm assuming the wheel hub and brakes need to come off, and that it needs to be detached from the upper suspension (is that the upper control arm?). Anything else special I'd need to know about it?
Is it okay to have the knuckle rethreaded? I mean, however it gets done, is it safe on the road after this kind of work is performed?
Rookie
Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 59
Likes: 0
From: TX
If it were me, I would figure out what size tap and die (TnD) it is and rethread it myself. Just make sure it's secured properly from underneath as you will have to use some muscle to rethread it.
You have 3 options though:
1- DIY with a TnD you purchase- least amount of money and moderate effort
2- remove knuckle and have a machine shop do it- most effort and I am guessing medium cost??
3- take it to an indy shop and have them fix it- most money, least effort
If it were me, I would try for #1 first, and then go to #3. My time is valuable as well as the car is a DD, so I don't have a 2-3 days to remove, take it to a shop and replace everything. YMMV.
You have 3 options though:
1- DIY with a TnD you purchase- least amount of money and moderate effort
2- remove knuckle and have a machine shop do it- most effort and I am guessing medium cost??
3- take it to an indy shop and have them fix it- most money, least effort
If it were me, I would try for #1 first, and then go to #3. My time is valuable as well as the car is a DD, so I don't have a 2-3 days to remove, take it to a shop and replace everything. YMMV.