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DIY - LCA Ball Joint Replacement

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Old Jan 3, 2015 | 11:03 PM
  #31  
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I hadn't thought about the sway bar end link. How would I check to see if that's it?

When I'd had someone previously check out the noise, he looked at the large LCA bushing and said it looked to have recently been replaced, so I'm thinking I can rule that out.

Also, for the creaking, if the noise sounds like dry rubber when I move the UCA up and down, is that something I can just lube?
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Old Jan 4, 2015 | 08:16 AM
  #32  
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Here are diagrams for the front suspension components for your reference...
Attached Files
File Type: pdf
Front Suspension Components.pdf (1.09 MB, 705 views)
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Old Jan 4, 2015 | 01:20 PM
  #33  
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You lube them when they are put it. You may also want to check the torque. If not done properly they will loosen over time.
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Old Jan 6, 2015 | 04:11 PM
  #34  
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Thanks for creating this thread. My LS430 has done about 114,000km's and I am starting to feel the front end vibrations more over bumps. I started by replacing the 2 Lower front Control Arm bushes and that helped heaps - a big difference compared to before, but I think there's still a little bit more to be done to firm up my ride.

I am going to order the LCA ball joint assemblies and have them fitted at my next service. I have heard a slight knock before when turning the steering wheel when turning in a tight circle so hopefully replacing the LCA ball joints will help.

Thanks
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Old May 1, 2015 | 06:42 PM
  #35  
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Does anyone know the size of the lower ball joint assembly bolts? I'm going to tackle the job this weekend but not sure if I have the right socket size. Thanks!
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Old May 2, 2015 | 08:06 AM
  #36  
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its either a 17 or 19mm socket for the two lower bolts and the tie rod. the bigger nut that connects the balljoint to the control is a 22mm.
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Old May 3, 2015 | 06:38 PM
  #37  
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Thanks for everyone's help. The lower 3 bolts are 17mm. The upper castle bolt is 19mm. It took me about 2 hours to swap both sides, and I saved $300 from taking it to the mechanic.

I have an 06 with 72k miles. After driving around the city, I can say this fix made a huge improvement on the ride. I feel less vibration on the steering wheel. I can't wait to see how she handles on the highway.
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Old May 6, 2015 | 10:06 AM
  #38  
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Also, one thing to be really careful with is the spindle is made of aluminum and it can be very easy to cross thread the bolts. Make sure the lower ball joint is completely seated with the guide dowels before screwing in the lower bolts.
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Old May 6, 2015 | 02:30 PM
  #39  
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When I had my front struts replaced last month at Lexus, they of course told me that my lower control arm bushings were cracked (which I knew 5 years ago but have no symptoms or noises) as well as my lower ball joints. Occasionally I will get a clunk when turning very hard out of a parking space. Other than that, I have no issues to talk about. I think Lexus quoted an outrageous price of around $700 or so to replace the ball joints. I have no real issues to speak about and the tires all around are wearing fairly evenly. I guess I would go to an independent shop to see how much play there is in the ball joints. How many members have actually experienced ball joint failure where the tire actually separates from the suspension? That is my concern. I have 118,000 miles on my 01. Thanks all.
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Old May 7, 2015 | 06:37 AM
  #40  
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Just for clarification, everyone is using new OEM ball joints correct? I didnt see any quality aftermarket replacement options.
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Old May 7, 2015 | 07:04 AM
  #41  
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I usually use OEM parts, sensors, timing kit, stuff like that but I also don't mind some things aftermarket. The job is very easy with a good socket set and torque wrench. Takes 2 hours or less. Anyway, I got some Beck Arnleys from Rock Auto as they have a good reputation. The pair shipped was less then one OEM. So I figured why not try. I have nothing to complain about performance or build quality. I have had good experiences in general with Beck Arnley parts. They are based out of Tennessee as well.

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/more...nid=369&jpid=0

Last edited by Lavrishevo; May 7, 2015 at 07:11 AM.
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Old May 7, 2015 | 02:00 PM
  #42  
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I visually inspected both of my lower ball joints and none of the boots appeared to be torn. At least that's a good sign that dirt has not been getting inside to deteriorate them further. I still need to get the car on a lift to see if there is play. I wonder if Lexus was just giving me the business to extract some more money from me. Florida roads are not that rough on front ends. What is the approximate cost for each OEM ball joint?

Last edited by Bocatrip; May 7, 2015 at 02:06 PM.
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Old May 7, 2015 | 02:24 PM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by Lavrishevo
I usually use OEM parts, sensors, timing kit, stuff like that but I also don't mind some things aftermarket. The job is very easy with a good socket set and torque wrench. Takes 2 hours or less. Anyway, I got some Beck Arnleys from Rock Auto as they have a good reputation. The pair shipped was less then one OEM. So I figured why not try. I have nothing to complain about performance or build quality. I have had good experiences in general with Beck Arnley parts. They are based out of Tennessee as well.

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/more...nid=369&jpid=0
Excellent! I was eyeing those on rockauto but was unsure about quality. But I will put my order in now.
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Old May 7, 2015 | 06:20 PM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by Bocatrip
I visually inspected both of my lower ball joints and none of the boots appeared to be torn. At least that's a good sign that dirt has not been getting inside to deteriorate them further. I still need to get the car on a lift to see if there is play. I wonder if Lexus was just giving me the business to extract some more money from me. Florida roads are not that rough on front ends. What is the approximate cost for each OEM ball joint?
I also live in FL and replacing the lower ball joints made the ride feel much better: better handling, less vibrations, steering wheel feels firmer, etc. My boots were not broken, but when I took them off, I could move the ball joint around with moderate play. I paid $90 per side when Sewell was still selling online.
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Old May 11, 2015 | 12:00 PM
  #45  
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This has been a very informative thread!
My '01 LS430 has about 198K mostly highway miles on it. I've had the driver's side tie rod end and front struts replaced, but I'm still not happy with the ride over even small bumps. My mechanic doesn't seem to think there's anything out of spec, but I just don't think that it rides the way it used to. After about 198K miles, is it a good idea to just rebuild the suspension; i.e., bushings, ball joints, etc.?
After all, if I'm (or my mechanic is) in there, why not?
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