Hey guys,
2004 LS 430 with about 195k miles. I love this car and am very proud to say I'm just now having my first issue and want to run it by the experts.

My driver side door is not unlocking via use of my remote about 80-90% of the time. All other doors unlock. Driver door is also not locking with the remote. Not a huge deal because I can just do it manually and this doesn't bother me.

However, a couple of times I have noticed that when I put down another window using my driver-side control, sometimes that window will not go back up. It will not even go up if you use the control from that particular window (meaning not sitting in the driver seat trying to put it up). I have to turn the car off for a couple of minutes and turn it back on and then the window goes up (luckily this has worked so far).

Took to my dealer (I have a great Toyota dealer that I trust 100%; don't trust my Lexus dealer at all) and they mentioned something about a driver control panel that may need to be replaced. If I remember correctly it was in the actual door panel itself. Unfortunately it's a Lexus specific part and costs about $750, then another $300 to install by Toyota. I think they charge about $60/hour for labor so it must be a relatively extensive de-installation and installation process.

My questions are:
1) Anyone else had these issues simultaneously? If yes, what did you do to resolve?
2) Does it seem logical that the 2 issues I'm having would be linked and therefore fixed by this one big part? I just want to make sure that spending $1,000 is going to fix both issues. I can live without the driver door locking/unlocking with keyless remote. But I want to have confidence I can roll my windows down and not have them get stuck in that position.

Thank you all for any advice. Looking forward to driving this one until the wheels fall off..!

 

I would guess so, that you might have a faulty control panel.
But just make sure, and check all the cables leading to the control panel, after that think of buying the new one.

And btw, if they are charging you $300 for this type of installation, I wouldn't trust them as much as you said.

It's a 3 minute job. You pry the bottom end of the panel, take it out, remove cable and install new one.
So just to save you that last amount, you're better off doing it yourself. And no it does not need any programming.


Good luck to ya.

 

I would look to different sources for these issues, to me they are not related. Does it function correctly with the switch near the window switches and does it lock when you put the car in gear? Do a search here for door lock actuator and you will find a fairly common issue is the small electric motor inside the door that physically moves the mechanism burns out.
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls4...-tutorial.html

 

Very helpful. Thank you- I will talk to the dealer about it. They have been good to me up to this point (saved me about $1200 from local Lexus dealer's unneeded repairs) but I will find out the logic for the $300 labor. Thanks again,

 

About a year ago I left the driver and passenger window down about 6". While I was working in an aircraft hanger, I had NO idea a rainstorm had come through. The window sills on both the passenger & driver were soaked. Furious, I quickly wiped away as much of the water as I could. I then waited several more hours before starting the car because I didn't want to energize any circuits any more than I had to, if there was water infiltration somewhere.

Several hours later I started her up, and only the driver's window rolled up! As luck would have it, on the ride home I encountered another rain storm!!! I did everything I could to stop the water from entering the cabin while driving. I even stopped under an overpass for a while but then didn't have the patience to sit any longer.

Long story short, I told my Lex tech and he said I probably smoked a fuse. Well, I checked every fuse in all 3 or 4 fuse box locations, and all were OK! I reported back to him and then he said I probably smoked one of the 'control modules' underneath the door trim.

I didn't mention during this entire debacle, not only did my passenger window not roll up, but my Smart Key & keyless entry was INOPERATIVE! Additionally, the security system LED's I don't think were even flashing or they were steady red. Not the normal flashing when you approach with the Smart Key!

Anyway---he ordered the control module for the driver side door (thinking it was a master) and I think HE also thought it was the ONLY control module in the vehicle!

Well, we met up at the local mall during his lunch break, he installed the control module in about 7 minutes, and NO DICE. He was pissed, and I was MORE pissed..lol. He put the original control module back in and said he's going to talk to his buddies about this one. The driver side control module IS NOT interchangeable with the passenger side, btw.

A week later!!!!, he calls me up and says he's going to change the control module in the PASSENGER side door also. He ordered it and will let me know when it comes in. A couple days later we meet up, he replaces it, and VOILA. The windows work properly, the Smart Key works properly, and all was well.

He charged me the transfer/dealer cost price for the module apparently because he said it was $214. I gave him $275 cash for his efforts. lol.

BTW...I looked like an A-HOLE the whole time I was waiting for the fix, because I had SARAN WRAP TAPED to the passenger side window, taped all the way up the door frame to where the seam of the door meets the roofline of the car. I think I put 11 miles on the car during those couple weeks..lol.

FYI...when he took the door panel off on the passenger side, you could SMELL the electrical burnt smell. It is AMAZINGLY EASY to take the door panel off. There are like 6? Phillips head screws (don't forget the 1 in the door grip/handle!), the bottom of the panel has the popout/popin clips that you just pry the bottom of the panel away from the bottom of the door, and then the top of the panel HANGS on a metal ledge. Lift straight up. Once the door panel is off, there is a nice layer of water RESISTANT plastic material + insulation + a couple small wiring harnesses. I recall the door panel not being removed 100%, but rather I held it as he worked on removing the control unit that was then accessable & attached to the metal door.

I don't have the part # for the control module, but hopefully this will help add another piece to your puzzle of there are at least 2 control modules that affect windows, locks, keyless & security!

Good luck. Let us know how you make out!

 

This is great feedback. My wife said she noticed a burning smell (while riding in passenger seat) a few weeks ago. I couldn't smell it but she got out of the car and back in and said something definitely smelled like it had burned. I bet it is the passenger control module for the window. I think it's a coincidence that my driver door lock isn't working. The more I read up on that, the more I think they are 2 separate issues.

Stupid question- but making sure it's similar to my issue- you weren't able to put up the passenger window from anywhere correct? Meaning you couldn't do it from the driver side control or from the passenger control right? I assume not since you put saran wrap up...!
I'm going to get someone to take off the driver and passenger side panels to see if they can tell where the issue is coming from just to be sure.

Thanks!

 

No, the driver door does not lock in any electronic manner- I have to do it manually (key in door). So when I put the car in gear it's the only door that doesn't lock and it also won't lock pushing the lock button.

The more I have researched one of the older threads on here about these door lock actuators, the less convinced i am that replacing that will fix my weird window issue. I also found out my Toyota dealer quoted me the wrong part for the door actuator. They quoted as if i had the "easy close" option which my car doesn't have. That will lower the cost of the part and the labor. My biggest goal is getting the window issue fixed- I can live with the manual locking/unlocking of the door for now but can't get stuck with a window down.

Thanks for your help.

 

Correct! I wasn't able to make the window go UP from any location. Ironically, the window WOULD GO DOWN (seemed like down always worked!?). When I was trying to roll up, I would always first hit the down button (don't remember from which location), and it would go down. I'd let off on the button immediately, and thinking the problem was gone & dried out (yea right), I'd quickly push the UP button but noooooooooooo! At that point I'd get out of the car & pound my head on the pavement in aggravation of just making my window 'situation' WORSE! Instead of a 3" open window I have a 6" open window!!!!!!!.

The Smart Key operation, the power lock operation via the keyfob, the power windows, the security system, and I THINK even the power trunk release and another odd item I can't recall right now all were either non-working or erratic.

YOU'RE IN BETTER LUCK! I just found notes & emails pertaining to my problem last summer. The part is actually called "Computer, Multiplex Network, Door' It can be found on Sewell's website here... http://lexus.sewellparts.com/oem-cat...S430-2005.html

The P/N for a 2005 model year PASSENGER SIDE = 89222-50240, our cost = $213. The DRIVER SIDE = 89223-50240, our cost = $231. Those PN's & prices are for models W/O the power door closers.

You can also copy & paste those part #'s into their website because their Electrical breakdown is massive & confusing!

Please doublecheck those P/N for accuracy before ordering because many times once you buy & try an electrical part, they will NOT take it back (unless you have an inside guy ) but I believe this will put you in the right direction.

 

Wow, thanks for digging up the appropriate part number. I'll verify that it's the same part # for a 2004- if not, at least I know what it's called. You saved me some substantial legwork- I really appreciate it!

 

Perhaps i have a problem with the module in my passenger door, 2004 LS430. I can lower the window fine from either switch, but cannot raise fully from either switch. The window will go about half-way up, then stop. it will still go down immediately, but not up. If I wait a bit, I can raise it further. The longer I wait, the further it will raise until it either gets to the fully closed position, or stops again.

 

I'm facing the same issue guys, the longer I wait, the more the window goes up, but it doesn't go up in one shot. I have this problem only on the driver side window, any suggestions?

 

That sounds more like the window motor or actuator I would imagine. Had the same issue with a Sienna where the window would lower without issue but it would never go back up on one go. It would only go up slowly by increments. Replacing the window motor and regulator fixed the issue.

 

Sounds just what the OP was talking about...

 

I have the same issue, replaced the windows regulator but that's not the issue. My motor was weaked, replaced the windows motor resolved the issue.

 

On our '01, the drivers side door lock actuator does not work if that side of the car is parked in the sun for too long a time. Once it "cools" down it starts to work again... Bothersome but for a 15 year plus car not that bad a nuisance to be worried about yet..... Lot of good info on this thread... Thanks to all of you for sharing....