Hi to all the experts out there.
I have previously posted an issue with little metallic contact sound coming form the rear driver side wheel (whenever I shfit from P to R to D, in any order) and I and this mechanic came to an agreement that it more than likely the real wheel hub or hub / driveshaft combination. My question is is this some thing that can be done if one is a fairly capable DIYer?? Do I need any special tool to take the hub or pull the drive shaft off from the transmission unit?? Any input is appreciated.

cy

2005 Cypress Green, 32k miles.

 

Did you check your brakes? This is a common problem, my car has it to, sounds like a "clunk". Its usually the brake pad hardware, specifically the caliper pins and pad retaining clip that are shifting. Try removing the clip and the pins and making sure they're all clean and freshly greased. Or you can just get the "fit kit" from Lexus and replace the parts too, since I heard the caliper pins can wear out over time and get a bit loose.

 

ancdmd,
Yes, the brake looks perfectly fine. Pin, pads, the retaining clip with cotter pin are all there and not making any noise at all. The wheel itself doesn't make any funny sound once the car rolls.
I would love replace myself. My only concern is need of specialized tools to pull or push/press in any parts and bit more than I can chew.

Thanks.
cy

 

I'd recommend you just leave it alone, unless I'm misunderstanding the problem. It could be just a normal noise, my car makes a metallic noise shifting from P to R as well, but don't all cars? Have you looked at a similar LS to see if the noise is normal? How loud is it? What was the estimate your mechanic gave you?

According to your signature, you have a 2005 LS with 32k miles? I can't imagine there's enough wear back there to warrant replacing your rear wheel bearing hubs, unless you've been in an accident.

You might just want to wait and see if it gets worse. If you want to replace the hub anyway, what's the harm in waiting?

 

Understand your point but the sound is fairly noticible and the fact that it has such a low miles baffled me for long time too. Also it only comes from that wheel and makes me cringy every time I am shifting. My thinking is if it has to be replaced eventually, why suffer? The quote this mechanic gave me was couple of hours of labor at 100 /hr, with me bringing the parts.

cy

 

Also I don't see any evidence of accident from anywhere on the car (dealer record also backs this up , along with CARFAX, if one can trust them). However, the area where one position the lexus floor jack (where the outer body meets the inner part with two notches to indicate the position), the edge is crushed in a bit. Maybe some one tried to lift the vehicle on a soft shoulder of the road and car shifted of something. My guess something happened in that attempt to damage the wheel hub/ shaft, but then there is no other visible sign to support this at all.

cy

 

GSXmike,
Only thing I am wondering is replacing hub and the axle. Can it be done without any specialized tool? Does one have to be familiar with 'all aspect of the vehicle' to replace the 'hub and axle'?? The diagnosis is already done.

cy

 

GSXMike,
Unless one takes apart the entire assembly, it remains to be uncertain as to the exact source of the noise. However, it has been narrowed downed to those two parts (by I and one experienced mechanic), the hub and/or axle. It might be the bearing on the hub or CV joints on the axle. The question that I am asking for help with is not to pinpoint the actual source, that, obviously, no one can answer without the vehicle at hand, but as the title reads "Can this be done as a DIY?" As to what might have caused this issue at the first place, thus the previous discussion, if you read above.

cy

 

I'm going to assume the rear brake pads are original. After 8 years the grease on those brake pad caliper pins is likely stiff and quite contaminated. Not to sound like an ***, but I know you took a look at the hardware and it all looks ok, but unless you removed the pins and pad retainer clip there's no way to tell if the pins are sticking or not. Its such a simple job to remove the pins and grease them, I'd do that first just to make sure, before you go replacing much more expensive parts.

 

ancdmd,
Thanks for your reply. Yes, I have checked the pads/pin/retaining clip. It is not that hard to do as you have stated, just matter of removing a cotter pin and pushing the pin laterally. Thin metal backplates (two on each pad) are all there as well. The pads looks very fresh too with similar thickness showing even wear. As my wife was shifting while I observed with my hands on top of the caliper (to 'feel' the sound), it surely does not emanate from the brake assembly. The parts diagram from Sewell website shows the axle and wheel assembly in indivisual exploded views but does not show how the axle is connected to the hub. Judging from the presence of splines on the inner surface of the hub, both part have to be forced into each other. The transmission side of the axle also has splines and seems to have a retaining pin.
Well, I guess I could take all apart and see but if I cannot put it back together due to need for a specialized tool, that is what I am concerned about. I did that once with my old 75 CJ7 transmission.


cy

 

Ok well when you get it solved be sure to post an update

 

The diagnosis sounds quite dubious, actually.

 

The possible source of the 'metal hitting metal' noise whenever the gear is shifted from P-R-D and D-R was narrowed down to either the hub or the drive shaft. Since I figured there is a higher chance the shaft be bad and there was no noise once the car is driving, I have decided to replace the shaft with a used one (dealer quote for new is around $800) from Sacramento area salvage yard (around $140) and with the help of my well-built mechanic friend in So-Cal, it was replaced after about 5 hours of wrestling. With that, there is not a sound coming from the power train. As for the question if it is doable by myself, my answer would be no. I am not well built at all and removing all hardware, including disconnecting the shock took a lot of brute force, just to get to the shaft, although I have all the tools in my possession. Once the part is replaced, reassembling everything took about 45 min.
The following morning, I drove 350 miles back to the Bay area, at two occasions reaching the speed up to 100 mph on HWY 99 (sshhhh don't tell anyone), without a problem and I was again impressed how solid this car is and how smooth the ride is even at that high speed.
Btw, my apology for not having pics.. it was way too late and we were working against clock for I had to make it back before Monday..
Also only specialty tool that is needed for the entire work was 32mm 12pts socket for the hub nut, which can be purchased through Sear's at around $8. At the beginning, I was concerned that the socket might not be deep enough but it turned out is was. The largest socket for the rest of the work was 19mm. Now that everything is in excellent shape, I am planning to drive this car to the ground.
Thanks for all your input.
cy

 

Any tips on removing the hub? Bearing puller type tool? Also wanted to confirm that I need to remove the strut to remove the axle.

 

Valex,
yes you do need to remove the strut to allow hub/rotor assembly enough room (so it can be pulled away from the axle) so the splined wheel end of the axle can be freed. We did not have to use any puller. One has to be careful in using heavy hammer to free some of the arms is that they are made of aluminum, instead of steel. Actually we did not disassemble the bearing hub (checked the integrity of hub by rocking the wheel before disassembling and did not notice any play from the hub) so not sure if one needs a puller of some sort.
Hope this helps.