LS430 rear deck buzz
Thread Starter
Driver School Candidate
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 17
Likes: 4
From: TN
LS430 rear deck buzz
I just got a sweet 2001 Black on Black LS430 Ultra Luxury
.
GOD Bless this car is sublime to drive while listening to great music
Very happy to be a part of CL as well
I am trying to get to grips on all of the bells/whistles and the first thing to fix is the rear deck buzz when the sub kicks in. The sub hits hard, but it may be too loose, hence all the vibration. Has anyone else heard MAJOR buzz in the rear deck due to the ML sub being ripped/torn etc??
So lucky that my car had the ML speakers replaced in the front door with new units 2 years ago, but who knows what shape the sub is in. (or the rear cones for that matter, but they sound good)
I have a TON of dynamat that I was going to put on the doors, but maybe the rear deck/trunk would be the first place to start Dynamatting..Opinions??
Was reading in another thread that this Kicker Sub is a good choice to replace a ML sub that is trashed::
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-6lJVjzb...ker-10C88.html
I was thinking of buying this sub and having it at the ready when /if I dive into seeing what shape the sub is in.
Just wondering what others have seen in this area....
Thanks and again, glad to be a part of this forum!!
.GOD Bless this car is sublime to drive while listening to great music
Very happy to be a part of CL as well
I am trying to get to grips on all of the bells/whistles and the first thing to fix is the rear deck buzz when the sub kicks in. The sub hits hard, but it may be too loose, hence all the vibration. Has anyone else heard MAJOR buzz in the rear deck due to the ML sub being ripped/torn etc??
So lucky that my car had the ML speakers replaced in the front door with new units 2 years ago, but who knows what shape the sub is in. (or the rear cones for that matter, but they sound good)
I have a TON of dynamat that I was going to put on the doors, but maybe the rear deck/trunk would be the first place to start Dynamatting..Opinions??
Was reading in another thread that this Kicker Sub is a good choice to replace a ML sub that is trashed::
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-6lJVjzb...ker-10C88.html
I was thinking of buying this sub and having it at the ready when /if I dive into seeing what shape the sub is in.
Just wondering what others have seen in this area....
Thanks and again, glad to be a part of this forum!!
Driver
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 129
Likes: 0
From: CA
I also purchased a sub and it is waiting for my quick fix to fail.
Pull up the grill and inspect the speaker. I found small tears on one edge so I siliconed all around the edge and after two months it is still fine .
Pull up the grill and inspect the speaker. I found small tears on one edge so I siliconed all around the edge and after two months it is still fine .
Thread Starter
Driver School Candidate
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 17
Likes: 4
From: TN
Thanks for the responses...I am going to check out the sub in the next couple of days....
I saw a foam repair kit that is sold on Ebay from Simply Speakers that looks to be a good option to revive a sub. I would either do that or buy the Kicker.
I saw a foam repair kit that is sold on Ebay from Simply Speakers that looks to be a good option to revive a sub. I would either do that or buy the Kicker.
Thread Starter
Driver School Candidate
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 17
Likes: 4
From: TN
I looked at the sub and the foam surround looks fine. There is a LOT of cone excursion when the bass hits hard, but it doesn't sound distorted. There is so much bass when a song has it though that the rear deck is rattling when it hits.
I may try putting some thin foam under the rear deck around the sub edge and beyond until I hit the area where the A/C ports are and see if that helps. I wish there was a separate control for the sub volume on the touch screen....
I may try putting some thin foam under the rear deck around the sub edge and beyond until I hit the area where the A/C ports are and see if that helps. I wish there was a separate control for the sub volume on the touch screen....
Driver School Candidate
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 20
Likes: 0
From: wa
I have had my UL for a week and tried forcing the the rear deck up so it would stop buzzing it worked slightly, but not really. The only fix is to dynamat the hell out of the rear dash piece and the metal on top and bottom of the rear dash. The sunshade bracket is another issue and i don't know a way to stop that from vibrating at all.
I have a Alpine Type R Apine 8" getting 250w RMS per voice coil and have the gain all the way down on my amp cause the vibrations back there are too much and higher levels on specific songs. I have an Audio Control LC2i remote in the center console to adjust it down when the vibrations get too much. I way take the seats out again and keep dynmatting back there. Anyone else have any ideas?
I have a Alpine Type R Apine 8" getting 250w RMS per voice coil and have the gain all the way down on my amp cause the vibrations back there are too much and higher levels on specific songs. I have an Audio Control LC2i remote in the center console to adjust it down when the vibrations get too much. I way take the seats out again and keep dynmatting back there. Anyone else have any ideas?
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Driver School Candidate
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 14
Likes: 1
From: Ohio
Not sure if you figured out your problem or not... But I was experiencing the same buzzing and fixed it. I started by simply removing the woofer cover and saw no tears at all. But after going all out and removing the woofer (this required the back seat removal - actually pretty easy and takes half an hour or so), I was able to get a better look at the sub and saw that it was ripped along the entire outer circumference. A hot glue gun did the trick. Now I'm going to do the same for my front door speakers.
Good luck!
Good luck!
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