Mark Levisnon Sub not working
I just purchased an 03 ls430 UL and it doesn't have any thump when I crank the radio. I only here mid/high's but no bass. No raddle/white-noise generally associated to a blown speaker.
Can this be a fuse? Blown woofer? Blown amp?
Please help
T
Can this be a fuse? Blown woofer? Blown amp?
Please help
T
Night and day difference, especially if you dynamat the rear deck. ML sub has a more popping sound, aftermarket Kicker Comp88 sub hits much deeper and lower.
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thanks for the feedback.
I checked the bass settings in the audio. i only hear mids/highs. NO woofer. it seems to be dead.
Now the question is: can it be a fuse; amp; woofer itself?
As mentioned, it can appear to be untouched but have a blown diaphragm. But how can I confirm this?
I am afraid of replacing the woofer and then it been the amp. But wait - if the amp was blown would my other speakers sound as well?
t
I checked the bass settings in the audio. i only hear mids/highs. NO woofer. it seems to be dead.
Now the question is: can it be a fuse; amp; woofer itself?
As mentioned, it can appear to be untouched but have a blown diaphragm. But how can I confirm this?
I am afraid of replacing the woofer and then it been the amp. But wait - if the amp was blown would my other speakers sound as well?
t
tobe1424
If your other speakers are working there is a 99% chance it's a sub alone. Replacing a sub is inevitable in these cars, many people on CL replaced it with an aftermarket Kicker Comp88 unit, it's cheap, close to specs of the original ML sub, fits right in the stock mount and sounds great. Some people bought an OEM sub for $400+ plus installation.
To change the sub in LS 430 rear seats need to come off.
Search this forum, there's ton of info on sub swap.
You are correct. Just pop off the sub grille with your fingers. Don't be afraid to put some muscle to pop it off - it's on clips. Then you need to bolt off rear seats. The are two bolts, one on each side, behind rear headrests, you will see 1" cover when you raise headrests all the way up. Then put a rear armrest down and pry off black plastic surrounding fridge, should be very easy. You will expose three screws holding central headrest, unbolt 'em and take it off. You will then see two nuts, one side each, holding the seatback, unbolt and then pull the seatback towards you. Now you have access to rear deck cover, pry it off carefull, there's a light sensor on drivers side, unhook it and continue to lift up rear deck cover. Now you have sufficient space to unbolt sub. There are four 10mm bolts. Unhook wires from sub, unbolt and take it out.
Now you need to take old sub out of its mount. If I'm not mistaken there are 4 screws holting the mount together. Should be easy, if it's not budging put some muscle into it. Mine was stuck really well. Cut wires from old sub connectors (as close to + and - terminals as you can), splice the wire, hook up to a new sub, just press the terminal, align the holes, put the wire through and release terminal. Repeat for a second terminal.
Now test it. Turn your car on and check if sub is functioning. If all is good, put it all back together carefully and enjoy.
Now you need to take old sub out of its mount. If I'm not mistaken there are 4 screws holting the mount together. Should be easy, if it's not budging put some muscle into it. Mine was stuck really well. Cut wires from old sub connectors (as close to + and - terminals as you can), splice the wire, hook up to a new sub, just press the terminal, align the holes, put the wire through and release terminal. Repeat for a second terminal.
Now test it. Turn your car on and check if sub is functioning. If all is good, put it all back together carefully and enjoy.


