I can not find any thing on this tutorial that helps?

 

In one sentence u say buy the d shaft another u say round which one is it?

 

D-shaft is the correct part.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00BYD...c8L&ref=plSrch

 

Hey does anyone have any way to open the motor housing and not break anything mines seems to be very tight.



This is the housing I'm speaking of<br/>

 

after all screws are removed use a wide blade approx 2" wide tool to pry open as to not gouge the plastic housing. Work your way around the piece...it will pop eventually

 

Ok people....yet another update that will hopefully help others. This was the 5th or 6th time I have been back in this door. Its been a long haul of successes and failures. I have been through strong motors...weak motors.....D shaft....round shaft.........filed round to D shaft.......changed motor brush head out for new motor brush head.....grinding issue.......intermittent issue......u name it. The savings for this repair is so great u just have to give it a try......my last motor install was cake but when the job was complete everything worked perfectly....a week later it was like the flipper jumped the toothed wheel...it would work one way but not another....I could manually flip the flipper to lock but it had a lot of resistance......I got tires of trying to figure out if it was a zip tie issue or not and ponied up $200 for a new actuator.....ouch! But will still save big by installing myself. Newbies pay attention......I will include pics. I have opened this door so many times I could do it in my sleep.

Use a big piece of cardboard and a sharpie.....draw a big picture outline of what a door looks like. When u remove a screw, stick it in the cardboard on the picture of the door where u removed it from......this makes it sooooooo easy.

Once u are all the way in and have removed ALL of the screws nut bolts........remember the door jam star bolts need to come out.....and very important.. BOTH window rail bolts must be removed for ease of actuator removal. Also assuming u have un snapped and removed all connections from tutorial.....

Once actuator is free from all bolts and white clip removed from top of metal rod way up high in the door.....it is time to take a very close look at how the act. is in there...take a pic as well. Note the window rail is over...or resting on the act.

To remove the act. pull down and rotate clockwise always making sure it isnt getting hung up on a wire or something.......keep rotating clockwise NOTING HOW THE WINDOW RAIL IS RIDING ON THE ACTUATOR.....u are literally rotating the act so u can free it from window rail u see.

To install actuator......install into cavity and immediately grab the loose window rail and get it in position to hop the metal bar inside of it.....so when u rotate the act counter clockwise back in the window rail should be riding on top of the act..........if u have this correct slowly rotate the act into position watch up high for metal rod to finish near its position. Once everything is lined up I first installed the 2 act star bolts to hold the act in place firmly.....then I snapped metal rod in socket and white clip back on rod.....then re install all other bolts...and screws........

Hoping some of my words will click with some of u to assist. The worst part of this job is getting the darn thing back in.....so thats what I was trying to get across to you. I have included pics. Note I used blue painters tape on the door where I remove screws from so I wouldnt forget to reinstall any.

Also note.....my new actuator was installed in about 10 minutes and works perfectly. I will send the old one back to an ebay seller who offer $$$$$ credit for used actuators.

Good luck all...





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Jeez JPV. You now have a Ph.D. in door lock actuators. I'm thankful I only I had to do this once.

 

jpv7774 . . . Where did you buy the actuator? web address please

 

The cheapest will be on eBay. There are multiple sellers so just do a search and one will pop up.

 

http://m.ebay.com/itm/111593275419?_mwBanner=1

 

Yes I am all too familiar with my darn door actuator!!! It was driving me crazy. Too answer some questions....I bought my OEM actuator on Ebay...just do a search for 2004 Lexus Ls430 front door lock actuator OEM and only a few Lexus dealers will pop up selling OEM...just pick one. If your car is not a 2004 then enter your year.....and also pay attention to order without easy close in my case.....or if you have a Ultra Lux you will order with easy close.

Now you will notice one guy on there selling refurbs for $179.00....real nice guy...if u buy from him he will refund you $30.00 and pay shipping for your old actuator. Personally I wanted OEM and for the slight diff in price it wasnt worth going refurb. Even though I didnt buy from him I am sending him my old part and getting $30.00 for it. An interesting note that I learned from this guy who is an actuator expert. I told him of my symptoms and what my actuator was doing...he seems to think I have a broken spring or snap back mechanism. So I could have changed my little motor 100 times and never fixed the darn thing. Glad I finally bought a new unit.

 

Yeah sounds like me. I have the UL and it turns out it wasn't the actuator but the entire assembly. I just went OEM and was done with it.

 

Hi JPV,

ActuatorPlus here, thought I would pop in hear and say hi. I was going to see if I could offer any advice but i think you have run the gauntlet on write-ups (really like the cardboard fastener template).

Once I get your unit I'll do a write-up on what I find to be the problem.

Regards,
Lenny

 

For those with easy close or UL models the motor is exactly the same. The benefit with the easy close part is that you don't have to try to reseal the unit with glue or zip ties. It uses bolts. You have to remove a few extra parts to gain access but it is quite easy. Open unit, bolt back together, reinstall, and you are on your way.

 

Hey guys.....You see Lenny from Actuators Plus is on the thread. He is an expert on all kinds of actuators. If you have a question or need an actuator.....he is the guy u need to talk to. Here is how it breaks down. He sells refurbs for $179.00 and offers a $30.00 refund for your old core....so for $150.00 your back in the game with a lifetime warranty. Not bad. I paid I think $219.00 plus over 20.00 for shipping for OEM....so call it $250.00 ......Your choice...$150 with Lenny....$250.00 OEM

Thanks for checkin in Lenny.

JPV