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changing spark plug passenger's side???

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Old Jan 2, 2010 | 06:17 PM
  #1  
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Default changing spark plug passenger's side???

I'm trying to change the spark plugs by myself.

I did the driver's side, and it was peace of cake. But, the other side (passenger side) has a black box blocked the way to reach the plugs. I tried to remove that box by removed one 10mm bolt holding the box down, and loosing the hose clamps one attached to the engine and the other to the filter box "I think". Anyway, I couldn't remove the end attached to the engine!!! its tough its hard plastic its strong!!!!

How does it removed? so I can finish the job. Otherwise, I will take to the mechanical to do the other side and see how he removes it for the future purposes.

If anyone knows how, please let me know??

Thanks,
Bassil
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Old Jan 2, 2010 | 06:36 PM
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I thought it was held by two bolts? its been a while.
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Old Jan 4, 2010 | 06:45 AM
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I also think there is another bolt or two.
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Old Jan 4, 2010 | 09:57 AM
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Bassil,

All you have to do is use a bit more force to pull the intake hose off of the throttle body. Mine was tough too, but keep working at it wiggling it back and forth while pulling, it will come off. Once you pull it off the intake hose and black box lifts right out. It only has one 10mm bolt holding it down, which you've already removed. See the attached PDF diagram.

While you're at it, you may as well remove the throttle body and clean it good. Its only held on with 4 bolts. Remove those bolts and unclamp the hoses to pull the entire body off. Use throttle body cleaner to clean out all the gummy residue on the inside of it, then re-install it. Make sure you line up the gasket properly when bolting it back on.

With that piece removed, you'll have access to all 4 passenger side coils and plugs. There is no need to remove the battery for the plug farthest back. Just use a uni-joint and various extension rods and you can easily remove all of them with no problem.
Attached Files
File Type: pdf
m_ig_0005.pdf (83.6 KB, 554 views)
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Old Jan 4, 2010 | 01:19 PM
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Originally Posted by pizitz70
Bassil,

All you have to do is use a bit more force to pull the intake hose off of the throttle body. Mine was tough too, but keep working at it wiggling it back and forth while pulling, it will come off. Once you pull it off the intake hose and black box lifts right out. It only has one 10mm bolt holding it down, which you've already removed. See the attached PDF diagram.

While you're at it, you may as well remove the throttle body and clean it good. Its only held on with 4 bolts. Remove those bolts and unclamp the hoses to pull the entire body off. Use throttle body cleaner to clean out all the gummy residue on the inside of it, then re-install it. Make sure you line up the gasket properly when bolting it back on.

With that piece removed, you'll have access to all 4 passenger side coils and plugs. There is no need to remove the battery for the plug farthest back. Just use a uni-joint and various extension rods and you can easily remove all of them with no problem.
thank you so much for these valuable information. so what I was doing was right, but little force was needed. I will try to do it, but maybe without the cleaning part or anything else. Because its freaking freezing over here. My garage is exactly like my freezer now. I will do it next time.
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Old Jan 5, 2010 | 07:46 AM
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Tell me about it. Even here in Florida, its 20+ degrees below normal. Good luck with the plug change.
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Old Mar 29, 2010 | 12:35 PM
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Hi Bassil.........did you complete your spark plug change or was it too cold in your garage? lol.

What type & brand of plug did you use, if you don't mind sharing? Any more words of wisdom? I will be attempting a plug change sometime.....and also try to convince my gf to snap some pics (of the PLUGS!)
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Old Mar 29, 2010 | 09:17 PM
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Originally Posted by LS430inDE.
Hi Bassil.........did you complete your spark plug change or was it too cold in your garage? lol.

What type & brand of plug did you use, if you don't mind sharing? Any more words of wisdom? I will be attempting a plug change sometime.....and also try to convince my gf to snap some pics (of the PLUGS!)
I did mine a couple of weeks ago, used NGK Iridium IX spark plugs. I purchased my LS with 57K miles on it, and I was changing what I assumed to be the original plugs.. which were NGK Iridiums.

Tips?

Take as much plastic off of the engine (intake cover, both side covers) and the air inlet and box.

Use a spark plug socket, otherwise you will need to use a extendable magnet to pull the plugs out.

Have u-joint adapters available.

Use anti-seize.

Don't cross-thread the plugs when installing. I use a short (8") length of black fuel line over the spark plug top terminal to "start" the plug to avoid cross threading.

Don't over-tighten, but make sure you flatten the crush washer.

If you are using iridiums, don't try to gap them. Don't drop them, and chances are, the gap will be correct out of the box.
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Old Mar 30, 2010 | 05:35 AM
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Originally Posted by TurboTodd
I did mine a couple of weeks ago, used NGK Iridium IX spark plugs. I purchased my LS with 57K miles on it, and I was changing what I assumed to be the original plugs.. which were NGK Iridiums.

Tips?

Take as much plastic off of the engine (intake cover, both side covers) and the air inlet and box.

Use a spark plug socket, otherwise you will need to use a extendable magnet to pull the plugs out.

Have u-joint adapters available.

Use anti-seize.

Don't cross-thread the plugs when installing. I use a short (8") length of black fuel line over the spark plug top terminal to "start" the plug to avoid cross threading.

Don't over-tighten, but make sure you flatten the crush washer.

If you are using iridiums, don't try to gap them. Don't drop them, and chances are, the gap will be correct out of the box.
Excellent advice Todd. Thank you. Not sure if you saw my posting but the dealer wanted $600 total for a plug change.

Yesterday I bought 8 new Denso Iridium Power (IK20, #5304) on Ebay and it ended up costing less than $10/plug including shipping.

Thanks for the tips again, even though you let us ALLLLLL down. We were hoping for another play by play w/pictures, similar to your SWEET brake pad replacement w/pics.
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Old Mar 31, 2010 | 09:56 PM
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Originally Posted by LS430inDE.
Excellent advice Todd. Thank you. Not sure if you saw my posting but the dealer wanted $600 total for a plug change.

Yesterday I bought 8 new Denso Iridium Power (IK20, #5304) on Ebay and it ended up costing less than $10/plug including shipping.

Thanks for the tips again, even though you let us ALLLLLL down. We were hoping for another play by play w/pictures, similar to your SWEET brake pad replacement w/pics.
I'll do a mock plug change for you guys to get the photos. I was so exhausted and pissed from jacking with the O2 sensor, specifically the damn wire connection behind the heat shield, I was in no mood to take photos.
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Old Apr 1, 2010 | 06:59 PM
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Originally Posted by TurboTodd
I'll do a mock plug change for you guys to get the photos. I was so exhausted and pissed from jacking with the O2 sensor, specifically the damn wire connection behind the heat shield, I was in no mood to take photos.
Dude..that is above and beyond the call! .......how about this...Enroute to TX, I'm planning my first (overnight) stop somewhere in TN. I was thinking Knoxville or Nashville. Memphis would be a little too far being it's about 13hr drive.

I will bring the plugs along with incentive$, and you can provide the labor? We could then document and upload the pics.

JK! I don't want to go wrenching on her while enroute on a trip!!!...although I AM stopping in one of those cities overnight...on Sunday the 18th.
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Old Apr 6, 2010 | 11:31 AM
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Originally Posted by pizitz70
Bassil,

All you have to do is use a bit more force to pull the intake hose off of the throttle body. Mine was tough too, but keep working at it wiggling it back and forth while pulling, it will come off. Once you pull it off the intake hose and black box lifts right out. It only has one 10mm bolt holding it down, which you've already removed. See the attached PDF diagram.

While you're at it, you may as well remove the throttle body and clean it good. Its only held on with 4 bolts. Remove those bolts and unclamp the hoses to pull the entire body off. Use throttle body cleaner to clean out all the gummy residue on the inside of it, then re-install it. Make sure you line up the gasket properly when bolting it back on.

With that piece removed, you'll have access to all 4 passenger side coils and plugs. There is no need to remove the battery for the plug farthest back. Just use a uni-joint and various extension rods and you can easily remove all of them with no problem.
I recall the repair manual said that the throttle body gasket was a non-reusable part. Anyone have any opinions on this (or a part number)?
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Old Apr 6, 2010 | 11:36 AM
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Originally Posted by pizitz70
Tell me about it. Even here in Florida, its 20+ degrees below normal. Good luck with the plug change.
Off topic, but do you have any better pictures of your spoiler?

I tackled the passenger side first just so I wouldn't get unmotivated for the rest of the job. And The throttle body gasket is not a reusable part, but there are occasions where you can still use it.
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Old Nov 26, 2010 | 11:43 AM
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Changed my plugs today. A lot easier that my ML. It took 1 hour from start to finish. Thank you for the thread
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Old Nov 26, 2010 | 12:20 PM
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Original plugs will be densos,SK20R11. I replaced my plugs and gave the TB a quick clean while I was there.
A spray of carby cleaner on a rag,and wipe all over the throttle plate and around the housing. My car has a bit over 60k Miles on it and the throttle was dirty,but not overly bad. I don't generally remove throttle bodies to clean them,most of the time you can get to one easily enough on the car.

Replacement plugs were NGK Iridiums, IFR6T11.


As for the TB gasket,it's reusable as long as you're very careful removing the TB. DO NOT separate the gasket from whichever side it sticks to (TB or manifold) as it'll be brittle and compression formed for a specific location. if it moves,it may not seal properly,and there's a good chance it'll break. When going back together,a SMEAR (not a wipe,a VERY thin layer) or gasket goo or O2 sensor-safe silicone across the face of the gasket will ensure a good seal.


Justin...
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