When I applied 12vdc to the OCVs, I could hear them clicking. Also, I bench-tested them prior to installing the new ones.
I also bench-tested the old one and it too was working fine. So it definitely leads me to believe that it is internal to the VVT.
maybe a chunk of <I don’t know what> is clogging something.

 

How did the valve train look when you were in there replacing cam seals? Maybe your filter for the VVT oil passages got clogged? Luckily if you had to just replace the filter it looks like you don't actually need to remove the cams again. That's annoying having to tear back into it. Hopefully you get it sorted.

 

I agree. The cam should stay in unless I need to completely tear out the VVT.
However, I need to remove the timing belt in order to remove the timing belt pulley so I can have access to the front main cap.
But this will allow me to replace my (leaking) front main crankshaft seal.

 

I have been documenting my progress on the Lexus in general and this issue specifically.
i have a YouTube channel called Autopilot Auto.
here is a link to the latest video documenting my VVT issues.

 

Bradland, Thanks for the part numbers for the connectors. I was able to find them.

 

Update. And it’s bad news.
so I took off the #1 cap for the left bank and spent considerable time cleaning and inspecting it.
the internal filter was very very clogged. I cleaned that and took a chance that that might just be the problem. I reinstalled everything and no change whatsoever. So now I have to take everything apart, including the cooling system and timing belt. Just to gain access to the actual VVT itself and disassemble it. However, the only thing inside theVVT is a spring. So if the spring is physically broken, then great. But if not, I don’t know what to do.

 

The spring inside the timing tube assembly isn’t subject to failure as the gear only turns a few degrees but there is an O ring inside which will of course become brittle with age/heat cycles. Typically this will cause a leak and I guess it could be the culprit if it’s causing the gear to bind. Lexus doesn’t consider this to be a serviceable part and a dealer would suggest replacing it to the tune of $400 to $500 ea. but the O ring can be purchased on eBay.
It’s very critical how the assembly comes apart, most importantly put back together. Google “Lexus VVTi O ring replacement”and you’ll find a few vids.

 

Thanks. I already have the O-rings on order. They will be here next week.
in the meantime time, is there anything else you can think of that might be causing this?

 

This is really interesting that it seems to be such a problem. Here's something you can check when you pull the valve covers back off.


The link isn't starting where I want it to, but if you jump to around 17:25 that's where he shows the movement of the cam in relation to the VVT gear.

In this video they have a 1UZ VVT and it's running like crap because the VVT gears are locked up. He shows how the camshaft is supposed to be able to move back and forth. So that's something you can check. He also pulls the front of the VVT gears apart in the car without removing the camshaft. So in theory you could mark it, and then pull the gears apart and replace the O-Rings without actually pulling the cams again.

 

The 2k mile gap between the work and the code is interesting.
It could suggest a timing part has been compromised. What brand parts did you use and were they all replaced during the TB service.

Based on your original post, which is rather comprehensive, I’m merely grasping at straws.
It’s not common but there have been cases of the cam timing sensor wiring becoming ajar after (actually during) a TB service.
When this happens the wires can rub against the timing gear and/or belt. Worn insulation could cause intermittent communication with the ECU.
A severed wire will create a no start condition. The same applies to the crank position sensor.

 

While I agree with you on the electrical portion, my issue is that I apply 12vdc directly to the OCV and, while I hear it click, the engine does not bog down like the other bank does. Therefore, the VVT is not actually rotating and advancing/retarding the intake timing on the left bank. So I would assume any wiring up to the OCV would not be a player in the possible failure. My next step is to take the valve covers off and see if I can partially rotate the camshafts, like in the Cartunz video above. These should rotate slightly without actually moving the gears. Maybe the filter being clogged starved the VVT of oil and eventually heated up enough to weld it together. That’s my current thought at least right now.

 

1100 ohms seems like a lot for a 12v coil. It should be a lot less. I have never measured an OCV coil before, but for example, the transmission solenoids are all less than 100 ohms. So maybe that is the problem with the car. Also, while energizing the valve directly with 12 volts may work for a test, you should keep in mind that the way it works is by a PWM signal (Pulse Width Modulation) sent by the ECM to control the angle or percentage of aperture. The duty cycle of such PWM depends on different conditions like RPMs, engine load, temperature, vehicle speed, etc.

Again, if the coils are measuring such a high DC resistance from its terminal, you should look into that because it might not be making a good electrical connection or the coil(s) is/are damaged.

 

Rickrod, sorry if I was not clear.
the camshaft position sensor, the one between the injectors, is the one with 1100 ohms resistance. The manual calls for 835-1400 ohms. I never measured the actual OCV resistance in the old or new OCV solenoid.
I just assumed they both were working due to the clicking sound and I could visually see movement when bench-testing with 12 DVC applied.

 

How does it run? When I was dealing with this issue my car ran like crap whenever code p1349 popped up, I could clear it out and my car would run fine for a few miles until it came back. I was able to resolve it by doing an engine oil flush, which I saw that you recently did, and I also ran a can of Seafoam in my engine oil after I flushed it and changed it. I had to reset the CEL several times before after about 500miles the problem went and hasn’t returned for over 5 years. Try flushing the oil again and either add some SeaFoam or even a quart of transmission fluid during the oil change. The best place to get replacement plugs for the engine wiring harness is Ballenger Motorsports. They have high quality plugs for much less than OEM.

 

It always runs the same. No change. Acceptable, but not great. So no clear warning signs.
thanks for the plug update. I will look into them.