Wow that's pretty amazing. I live in the Chicagoland area so we are no strangers to rust and damage from the salty roads. My 97 has holes in ints rear wheel wells but the undercarriage isn't crumbling to pieces, haven't snapped a suspension bolt yet.

 

That's exactly what I was thinking. lol.

So, I got a couple more pictures out of the seller. They are on the listing now. The good news is that it appears to have a Nakamishi sound system. Looks good still in the pictures. Can't see the bubbling and he was mentioning. The bad is that the winter tires are not Lexus but Nissan wheels. Timing belt change a mystery. There is a tear in the backseat. The engine bay looks a little dirty. She has been sitting for at least a couple months. No pictures of the underside but I am told it looks as good as the rest of the car.

She looks great. I dig the Green on green. Like some have said, seems to be a weird electrical issue. I don't think its the CAPS. I still lean towards a relay issue causing inhibit mode. If I could figure out what is causing it that would be great. If I go you guys have to help me. Even if you advised against it.

This is from Yamaes' post about the Engine cutting off while driving.

When the ECU detects a certain serious condition which is considered dangerous to keep running the engine, it disables the circuit opening relay to supply +B to the fuel pump. Thus the engine has no idea to keep running.

What are those conditions? There are 4 below. When one or more of these are detected, the ECU stops the fuel supply opening the circuit opening relay.
1, No signal from the MAF for more than 3 seconds.
2, No signal from the crank position sensor for more than 5 seconds.
3, No signal from the cam position sensor for more than 5 seconds.
4, No IGF signal from the igniter for more than 3 seconds although the IGT signal is sent.

I'd check these using an oscilloscope. Without it, it would be not easy to check well and quickly.

The seller also gave me the VIN JT8BH28F8W0121176 if anyone can find any information that would be great. I can't get the service to work in Canada.

 

Annoying that they show the interior looking perfect but fail to show or mention a tear. One of the main reasons I bought mine was the immaculate interior. Rear seat and passenger seat looked like they were never used. I guess for the price it's still a good deal though. Potentially fun project if you have time, wrenching skills and another car.

 

Judging from above your statement, the problem sounds like not the inhibit mode. If so, the engine will stop more quickly. A couple of minutes means something different. Without analyzing the car myself, I can't say enough but I would try to use the starting fluid for longer period. If the engine runs longer, it will probably mean that the fuel supply might not be OK.

 

I actually think I was mistaken. What I thought to be a rip is actually just sunlight. Still could be a tear under the other tire I suppose. I just expect the negative.

 

Thank you for your input Yamae. I don't think starting fluid has been used on it, the seller did not mention starting fluid. Just that it will not stay running. As I research more and more, I lean now towards it being the ECU. But the car is in such great shape, if all it needs is a rebuilt ECU, what are the chances that no one has tried that yet? From the pictures of the car... If the ECU was taken out i think the glove box would still be out but that can easily be put back in for pictures. Is there anyway to bring a little life back into the ECU without replacing it? I just need to to run for like 5-6 hours. I'm looking at rebuilt ECU on ebay but I could not get one before I go out to see this beast.

 

The ECU for a 98-00 has an immobilizer system and you can't simply swap it. It needs to rewrite the immobilizer data or you shift the chip IC900 to the new ECU. This needs some skills and can't be done by an average DIYer.

The ECU for a 98-00 also uses infamous QAS capacitors inside but they don't fail as quick as a 97 or earlier due to the lesser stress. As far as I have experienced, the major initial failures are the AT shift problems. It seldom has an engine running issue, I must add. You can check the ECU's condition simply checking the Vcc level as is written in the FAQ.

 

Right right, I see some on ebay that come with a key around $300-$400. If it is the Caps I'd rather pull it out and take it somewhere to get recapped. My current issue is how do I get it to my house without paying an arm and a leg for transportation. If I get out there and open up the ECU and see that the Caps are all leaking then I have sort of figured it out possibly? Could still be many other things wrong with her but I have faith in the LS400's with a decent amount of KM on them.


Edit: AT shift problems? Just as in the Automatic Transmission not shifting? I suppose I will find out everything that is wrong with it.... because its mine now lol. and I hold you all personally responsible.

 

As @Yamae mentioned, rarely do the ECU caps fail on 98-00. If it worries you, do a ripple test. Until then, I would place opening the ECU low on your check list.

 

OK, thank you for the advice. Its just that the symptoms that the car seems to be exhibiting are exactly what people around the web describe as happening to their 1990-1994 LS400. And in most cases the solution was to have the ECU "reprogrammed" which i assume is replaced. The 98-00 is a different car but what else could it be. If not inhibit mode, and not ECU, and not the starter. I am just taking the guys word that it actually starts up, but the A/C will at least turn on. Current owner says relay. Could be the gas pump relay turns off? could be one of many relays not working correctly. Apparently a shop told the Previous owner it was the starter, but the car apparently starts.

 

As I have written, the problem sounds like a fuel supply issue to me but without analyzing it myself, I can't say much. As I suggested, to use a starting fluid for longer period may be a way to judge quickly.

 

Thank you sir. I was not disregarding your advice about the fuel issue. Its #1 on my list of things I have compiled. I am looking up the procedure on how to use starting fluid but I don't really understand how it will help in this particular instance. If the car will start up and run for 5 minutes then die, then cool down and do the whole thing over again. At which point do I try to use the starting fluid? On the original start up and see if it keeps it running longer? Thank you again.

Seller told me he tried to bypass the ignition to see if that would work but it didn't. Am I wrong in thinking that wouldn't have done anything in the first place if the car actually starts? If he has been blowing smoke about the condition then I will be so disappointed but that makes room to negotiate. The seller owns a fleet of Toyotas' so somehow that makes him seem legit. Maybe I am slow. I have a good way to get her home in a worst case scenario anyways.


I have been searching the forums for a couple hours and this is what I came up with for some reasons as to why the 98-00 would cut out, also with everyone advice. Thank you again everyone.

Fuel Pump / Fuse / Fuel Pressure / Injectors
ECU
Inhibit Mode
Starter/ Relay Issue
Check Oil/Gas/Battery
Crankshaft Position Sensor
Idle Air Control Sensor
Misfire
Vacuum Leak / MAF
Timing is off

 

Check the fuel pump relay, could be a bad prong connection or a cracked solder line in the relay, spread the prongs and or switch out the relay, work for me on my car

 

Regarding the AT shift issue, this post by Silos5 explains one of typical symptoms among 98-00 LS400. Usually, many mechanics think it an AT problem and they replace it but the problem persists. Changing ECU capacitors fixes the problem.

 

The fuel pump relay is only bypassing the fuel pump resistor as in the wiring diagram, we need to understand. Without it, the engine still can run. Only the power is limited to run very fast or to accelerate hard. In other words the fuel pump relay turns on only when additional fuel is needed. It is the circuit opening relay which supplies/stops the power supply to the fuel pump.