So I am having a high pitched brake type noise coming from the right rear of my 95 LS.
I jack up the wheel and I have a tiny bit of play left to right.
I wiggle it from underneath and can't see any movement at any suspension parts.
I take off the cotter pin and locking cap and sure enough the 32mm axle nut is just loose....

It is supposed to be 213 ft lbs ....

I notice there arent any small rotor alignment bolts. I think the parking brake was rubbing since the rotor was slightly off center.
I only had Honda M6 rotor bolt so I eye balled it and put it back together. Sounds is gone for now but I think the shoes are shot.

Moral of the story check your axle nuts....

 

The shoes are definitely shot.

 

Glad you found it.

 

Sound came back once car got hot...

I replaced the shoes on the right rear last night. Im still get the rubbing creaking scraping noises.
When I accelerate the noise is basically gone. When I transition from accelerating to coasting the sound gets loud. When I am turning to the left the sound is quiet. Turning right and it is loud.
When the car is cold the noise is hardly noticeable. When it gets hotter it is much louder.

I believe my parking brake cables from the middle of the car to the rear are seized. I get 5 click at the pedal and the cables get tight underneath but that doesn't change the shoe position.
What all is involved to change the rear half of the cables? Basically from the equalizer and back. Am am not quite convinced that this is the noise problem. I had the old shoes on adjusted all the way loose and I had the same squeaking.

I'm leaning more towards wheel bearing but I feel that that repair may not be worth it as this car may only be worth a little over a grand.

 

I dont think a wheel bearing replacement would be very expensive, it comes as a hub/bearing assembly and does not require a press to my knowledge. If the car is otherwise in reasonable shape, $60 for the bearing/hub on rockauto and maybe $100 for a more reputable brand that Durago.

 

I had the exact same noises except temperature didn't effect it, it happened when cold or hot. At the time I was thinking wheel bearing. After reading everything about pulling the axle carrier off and getting the bearings pressed out and in, I figured it wasn't worth it for my car. (too much rot) I took a chance and changed the rear brakes and rotors, and only the right side E-brake shoes. It was one of those parts. My noise originally came when I used the E-brake. Now it's back together I'll never use the E-brake again. I also have it adjusted all the way out.
Did you use new hardware when you changed the E-brake shoes? I noticed a poor design the way the lower spring goes around (and touches) the adjuster. Is it possible that spring might be rubbing the inside of the hub assembly on yours?
Just a side note: The reason I only changed one side of the shoes and not both was because the pin for the hold down spring for the front shoe. It took me forever to get that one in. What a pain. If I ever NEED to do the other side I'll worry about it then.

 

Wow man I completely agree the front facing hold down spring was a PITA! After many f bombs I finally got it pushed in and spun by using a needlenose pliers partly open to compress the spring and twist while holding the back of the pin with my finger.

On mine the spring that holds the shoes together at the bottom was behind the shoes not in front facing the outside of the car. So that's the way I put it back.

I think both of my parking brake cables are rusted halfway tight. I tried hammering and pulling with a pliers on the cable and I couldn't get them to move. The pedal clicks 5 times and the equalizer gets tight under the car but from the equalizer to each rear wheel I don't think the cable is moving. Because the wheel can still spin in neutral.
Are you familiar with replacement of the rear half of the cables?

What if I just disconnected the cable or took the shoes out completely? If the sound disappears then I have my culprit.?

 

That's what I did with the pin but My fingers weren't small enough to get in behind to hold the pin so, after hours of trying and taking breaks, I finally just bent the bracket for the speed sensor to get my finger in to hold the pin cuz I couldn't get that bracket off either.

Now that I think more, that lower spring is on the inside then the adjuster goes on.