New LS400 owner, encountering some weird issues.
#1
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
New LS400 owner, encountering some weird issues.
Hey there everyone! New to clublexus, not new to forums as i've been on swedespeed for a few years I recently picked up a 1992 Lexus LS400 from auction, and it's been frustrating so far. I looked at it in person before the sale, it started up no problem and was idling a little low, i'm assuming misfire since it's idling at 250RPM, and when I rev it up I feel the typical vibration a misfire carries with it. The CEL and Trac off lights are both on. I won the car, got it delivered, and when I went for my first drive in it it felt INSANELY slow. Like, believe me, i've driven slow cars, I own a 1993 240 wagon with 75hp to the wheels on a good day, and it feels much slower then my 240. Then, halfway into the drive, about a mile away from my house, the transmission starts doing this weird thing, where it catches and revs as if it's in gear, then the revs fall to idle, then it revs back up again, then back to idle. This is with my foot firmly planted to the floor. It doesn't go over 10mph when it's warm. When it was cold, I got it up to 45, it took a while but once it was up there it held it pretty good. Another thing that's concerning, is when I put it in neutral and rev it, it sounds like there's shattered glass/metal banging around somewhere in the transmission area/in between the cats. I did some diagnosis and i'm getting an engine code 28 which means main oxygen sensor signal (right bank), and a transmission code 63 which means open or short in number 2 solenoid valve. I've checked the transmission fluid dipstick and the fluid is clean, a deep red color which I believe is correct so thats a start. This is the first relatively complicated car i've owned that doesn't have OBD2, my 240 is much more simple. I'm honestly not even sure where to start with it, i'd love to fix it up, i'm just hoping it won't be too expensive/complicated of a fix. Can anyone give me some advice/pointers on where to start?
#2
Hi there. Hope you will get this issue fixed...
Sounds a bit like the ECU problem . Perhaps it has baked some extra in the sun before you bought it.
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls-...capacitor.html
There seem to be kits to buy for DIY or places to get it fixed.
Sounds a bit like the ECU problem . Perhaps it has baked some extra in the sun before you bought it.
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls-...capacitor.html
There seem to be kits to buy for DIY or places to get it fixed.
#3
Welcome to CL! I saw this car when it was at the auction - cool to see it here afterwards.
Given the O2 sensor code and the metallic sound, it sounds to me that one of your catalytic converters is bad, likely from a failed O2 sensor or another part of the emissions system.
For the transmission, you'll have to drop the pan and inspect the number 2 solenoid valve. It probably failed and needs replacement. I believe another member of this forum recorded these good videos about his solenoid valve issue on his UCF10:
Other than that, it overall sounds like you got a good car. I wouldn't touch the ECU capacitors yet, until you can further diagnose other issues with the car, like the "misfire."
Also, random but relevant question - is the right chrome rim with the center cap in the trunk of the car? I questioned the spare being on the car when at auction.
Given the O2 sensor code and the metallic sound, it sounds to me that one of your catalytic converters is bad, likely from a failed O2 sensor or another part of the emissions system.
For the transmission, you'll have to drop the pan and inspect the number 2 solenoid valve. It probably failed and needs replacement. I believe another member of this forum recorded these good videos about his solenoid valve issue on his UCF10:
Other than that, it overall sounds like you got a good car. I wouldn't touch the ECU capacitors yet, until you can further diagnose other issues with the car, like the "misfire."
Also, random but relevant question - is the right chrome rim with the center cap in the trunk of the car? I questioned the spare being on the car when at auction.
#4
Need the correct info, not so much a story of where its going etc.
What is meant by it catches and revs like its in gear and all that? So it was not in gear or acted like it came out of gear???? Engine changing rpms is not a transmission issue.
All the long story doesn't make sense. Just describe step by step.
Like I put it in gear step on the gas and the transmission slips. Or its idling I give it some gas and it will run the rpms up and down, we don't need to know what road it was on etc. We can help real well with the correct information.
What is meant by it catches and revs like its in gear and all that? So it was not in gear or acted like it came out of gear???? Engine changing rpms is not a transmission issue.
All the long story doesn't make sense. Just describe step by step.
Like I put it in gear step on the gas and the transmission slips. Or its idling I give it some gas and it will run the rpms up and down, we don't need to know what road it was on etc. We can help real well with the correct information.
#5
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
Hey, I just realized I never updated this thread after I fixed the issue!
To elaborate on said issue, the car would drive normal, albeit slow when cold. Then, once it started warming up, I would step on the gas and it would rev for a second like a manual transmission, how you would rev it up a little before letting out the clutch, but then the revs would drop and it'd start to move forward, as if the clutch was fully let out. It was an extremely weird issue, but it ended up being a simple fix!
To fix these symptoms, my mechanic did new spark plugs+wires, replaced an o2 sensor and a left side afr sensor, and this fixed all the issues! Drove her for about 3k miles, then ended up getting a different daily driver and selling it.
To elaborate on said issue, the car would drive normal, albeit slow when cold. Then, once it started warming up, I would step on the gas and it would rev for a second like a manual transmission, how you would rev it up a little before letting out the clutch, but then the revs would drop and it'd start to move forward, as if the clutch was fully let out. It was an extremely weird issue, but it ended up being a simple fix!
To fix these symptoms, my mechanic did new spark plugs+wires, replaced an o2 sensor and a left side afr sensor, and this fixed all the issues! Drove her for about 3k miles, then ended up getting a different daily driver and selling it.
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Fit1too (12-09-19)
#6
Hey, I just realized I never updated this thread after I fixed the issue!
To elaborate on said issue, the car would drive normal, albeit slow when cold. Then, once it started warming up, I would step on the gas and it would rev for a second like a manual transmission, how you would rev it up a little before letting out the clutch, but then the revs would drop and it'd start to move forward, as if the clutch was fully let out. It was an extremely weird issue, but it ended up being a simple fix!
To fix these symptoms, my mechanic did new spark plugs+wires, replaced an o2 sensor and a left side afr sensor, and this fixed all the issues! Drove her for about 3k miles, then ended up getting a different daily driver and selling it.
To elaborate on said issue, the car would drive normal, albeit slow when cold. Then, once it started warming up, I would step on the gas and it would rev for a second like a manual transmission, how you would rev it up a little before letting out the clutch, but then the revs would drop and it'd start to move forward, as if the clutch was fully let out. It was an extremely weird issue, but it ended up being a simple fix!
To fix these symptoms, my mechanic did new spark plugs+wires, replaced an o2 sensor and a left side afr sensor, and this fixed all the issues! Drove her for about 3k miles, then ended up getting a different daily driver and selling it.
Just curious - I don't understand how the transmission issue was remedied, unless it really wasn't an issue with the transmission at all, and was more of a problem with the engine cutting out from a no spark condition, or the like.
What did your mechanic say about the Solenoid 2 code? What was the shattered glass-like sound when you put the car in neutral and revved it?
These cars also do not have AFR sensors
#7
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
Thanks for the update. Glad it all worked out.
Just curious - I don't understand how the transmission issue was remedied, unless it really wasn't an issue with the transmission at all, and was more of a problem with the engine cutting out from a no spark condition, or the like.
What did your mechanic say about the Solenoid 2 code? What was the shattered glass-like sound when you put the car in neutral and revved it?
These cars also do not have AFR sensors
Just curious - I don't understand how the transmission issue was remedied, unless it really wasn't an issue with the transmission at all, and was more of a problem with the engine cutting out from a no spark condition, or the like.
What did your mechanic say about the Solenoid 2 code? What was the shattered glass-like sound when you put the car in neutral and revved it?
These cars also do not have AFR sensors
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CELSI0R (12-09-19)
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#8
I think you're right with the AFR. My guess is he probably had it on some form describing the item as an O2/AFR sensor
Cool that there weren't any transmission issues, too
Congrats on the new purchase. Please post some info when you get the chance!
Cool that there weren't any transmission issues, too
Congrats on the new purchase. Please post some info when you get the chance!
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