1990 LS400: Tune-up Suggestions?
#1
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
1990 LS400: Tune-up Suggestions?
Just got my hands on an LS400 that hit 290,000 (it's a 1990 LS400) that I'm fixing up and daily-driving for sentimental reasons. It was my late-grandma's car, and hasn't been driven much in the last 5-10 years.
Car runs fairly good, but is a bit rough starting on a cold morning (may have to start it twice). Has a bit of vibration at high speed (drive shaft?), a vibration at idle while in drive (not neutral, weird). No CEL codes.
Any suggestions what I should do? I've heard Seafom is good, but I'm not sure how to use it. Any parts worth changing? Filters? Should I run a fuel treatment? (I've only done an oil change and tires, so that's it so far)
Just wanna make sure my "fixes" don't cause more problems than they actually fix. Haha.
Thanks
Last edited by classicLS; 10-25-17 at 08:44 PM.
#3
What do you mean vibration? Engine shudder or more in the trans, diff or?
Is the steering wheel shaking or can you feel any vibration in it? When you are driving, can you see the mirrors shuddering? Depending on the service history, Id suggest checking the trans and engine mounts. These play a huge role in the smoothness of these cars.
Then check the giubo joints
Is the steering wheel shaking or can you feel any vibration in it? When you are driving, can you see the mirrors shuddering? Depending on the service history, Id suggest checking the trans and engine mounts. These play a huge role in the smoothness of these cars.
Then check the giubo joints
#4
Moderator
iTrader: (7)
i always suggest to replace the transmission mount to get rid of drivetrain vibes. it's most likely separated at that mileage if never replaced (they typically go out around 90k). it's cheap and easy to replace, and makes a world of difference.
typical tune up includes a spark plug change so I would do that plus if money is available to do the caps and rotors as well (2 each). rough idle could be many things but start with the basics like replace the air filter.
the last item which plagues most 1st gen 90-94 owners (plus a few 2nd gens too) are the ECU capacitors. it may or may not be your problem but it's highly likely as well:
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls-...capacitor.html
typical tune up includes a spark plug change so I would do that plus if money is available to do the caps and rotors as well (2 each). rough idle could be many things but start with the basics like replace the air filter.
the last item which plagues most 1st gen 90-94 owners (plus a few 2nd gens too) are the ECU capacitors. it may or may not be your problem but it's highly likely as well:
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls-...capacitor.html
#5
I'm currently in the similar process of maintaining 1998 LS400 that I got from my dad who didn't want to deal with all the leaks he's been experiencing.
I initially fixed the notorious power steering leak along with replacing all the tires.
Now I'm doing:
I would highly recommend replacing both engine and transmission mount because if you just replace the transmission mount and engine mount is broken, it will destroy the transmission mount pretty quickly.
I initially fixed the notorious power steering leak along with replacing all the tires.
Now I'm doing:
- Replace valve cover gasket
- Replace Timing belt and water pump
- Replace Engine and transmission mount
- Recplace various vacuum hoses that crumbled by just "looking" at them
- Coolant flush
- Transmission fluid and filter change
- Oil and filter change
- Fuel filter change
I would highly recommend replacing both engine and transmission mount because if you just replace the transmission mount and engine mount is broken, it will destroy the transmission mount pretty quickly.
The following users liked this post:
classicLS (10-27-17)
#7
Pole Position
iTrader: (1)
Just got my hands on an LS400 that hit 290,000 (it's a 1990 LS400) that I'm fixing up and daily-driving for sentimental reasons. It was my late-grandma's car, and hasn't been driven much in the last 5-10 years.
Car runs fairly good, but is a bit rough starting on a cold morning (may have to start it twice). Has a bit of vibration at high speed (drive shaft?), a vibration at idle while in drive (not neutral, weird). No CEL codes.
Any suggestions what I should do? I've heard Seafom is good, but I'm not sure how to use it. Any parts worth changing? Filters? Should I run a fuel treatment? (I've only done an oil change and tires, so that's it so far)
Just wanna make sure my "fixes" don't cause more problems than they actually fix. Haha.
Thanks
Trending Topics
#8
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
Good suggestions. I do wonder if the transmission mount is the cause of the vibration because when I shift to neutral the vibration goes away, while sitting at a light in drive it vibrates.
What do you mean the wrong wheel?
What do you mean the wrong wheel?
#10
The 1990-1992 LS 400 models were designed with directional turbine wheels, in order to draw air in to aid with brake cooling.
Here is a left rim:
Here is a right rim:
Note the difference in the way the fins are pointed (counterclockwise vs. clockwise).
In the center of each rim, there is an L or an R marked on the rim. This is also marked on the outer edge, between two of the fins.
The spare tire has no L or R marking, but matches a right side rim. If you see this on your car, it means the spare was put on at some point in time.
Given this information, here is what the left side of the car should look like:
and here is what the right side should look like:
The following is an example of a car where the rims are mismatched. The rear right rim is a Left rim, and the front right rim is a Right rim in this photo. You want to avoid having your rims look like the following photo. This commonly happens when the tires are rotated. Instead of the common method, the wheels on each side should be swapped with each other when the tires are rotated.
This is not critical, but it is highly recommended that the wheels are switched back correctly when you next rotate your tires as it may improve your car's braking performance.
Here is a left rim:
Here is a right rim:
Note the difference in the way the fins are pointed (counterclockwise vs. clockwise).
In the center of each rim, there is an L or an R marked on the rim. This is also marked on the outer edge, between two of the fins.
The spare tire has no L or R marking, but matches a right side rim. If you see this on your car, it means the spare was put on at some point in time.
Given this information, here is what the left side of the car should look like:
and here is what the right side should look like:
The following is an example of a car where the rims are mismatched. The rear right rim is a Left rim, and the front right rim is a Right rim in this photo. You want to avoid having your rims look like the following photo. This commonly happens when the tires are rotated. Instead of the common method, the wheels on each side should be swapped with each other when the tires are rotated.
This is not critical, but it is highly recommended that the wheels are switched back correctly when you next rotate your tires as it may improve your car's braking performance.
Last edited by CELSI0R; 10-28-17 at 07:39 PM.
#11
Pole Position
iTrader: (1)
The 1990-1992 LS 400 models were designed with directional turbine wheels, in order to draw air in to aid with brake cooling.
Here is a left rim:
Here is a right rim:
Note the difference in the way the fins are pointed (counterclockwise vs. clockwise).
In the center of each rim, there is an L or an R marked on the rim. This is also marked on the outer edge, between two of the fins.
The spare tire has no L or R marking, but matches a right side rim. If you see this on your car, it means the spare was put on at some point in time.
Given this information, here is what the left side of the car should look like:
and here is what the right side should look like:
The following is an example of a car where the rims are mismatched. The rear right rim is a Left rim, and the front right rim is a Right rim in this photo. You want to avoid having your rims look like the following photo. This commonly happens when the tires are rotated. Instead of the common method, the wheels on each side should be swapped with each other when the tires are rotated.
This is not critical, but it is highly recommended that the wheels are switched back correctly when you next rotate your tires as it may improve your car's braking performance.
Here is a left rim:
Here is a right rim:
Note the difference in the way the fins are pointed (counterclockwise vs. clockwise).
In the center of each rim, there is an L or an R marked on the rim. This is also marked on the outer edge, between two of the fins.
The spare tire has no L or R marking, but matches a right side rim. If you see this on your car, it means the spare was put on at some point in time.
Given this information, here is what the left side of the car should look like:
and here is what the right side should look like:
The following is an example of a car where the rims are mismatched. The rear right rim is a Left rim, and the front right rim is a Right rim in this photo. You want to avoid having your rims look like the following photo. This commonly happens when the tires are rotated. Instead of the common method, the wheels on each side should be swapped with each other when the tires are rotated.
This is not critical, but it is highly recommended that the wheels are switched back correctly when you next rotate your tires as it may improve your car's braking performance.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post