I lost the alternator mounting bolt. I also lost the nut that holds the alternator onto the stud attached to the vehicle.

Does anyone have their part numbers.

 

What year ?

 

98. It's a 14mm bolt.

I read that all 14mm bolts on Toyota are 10mm in diameter and have a 1.25mm thread pitch. Does this sound accurate? If so I'll just go to Home Depot right now and get a M10 x 1.25 bolt right now instead of ordering a 10 cent bolt with 10 dollar shipping online.

 

This is for any 400 after 94- https://www.lexussouthatlantaparts.c...category=21746

 

yep, just go to a good hardware store and get one, I dont think you need to worry about the "ouality" of a bolt.

 

Good question. I don't know that particular bolt, but in general, you can make a good guess by knowing Lexus will follow the Japanese Industrial Standard (JIS).

For example, on an M10 bolt, looking up on this table:
https://www.boltdepot.com/fastener-i...head-size.aspx

shows how JIS (japanese) and DIN (german) and ANSI/ISO (everyone else) will _normally_ have the hex head size for each bolt major diameter.
So in this case, for M10, JIS calls for a 14mm hex, DIN is 17mm, and ANSI/ISO is 16mm. So that's why when you buy an assortment of bolts at the parts store, they'll sell a DIN set or a JIS set, separately.

The other "option" is whatever the standard thread pitch is. This page:
https://www.boltdepot.com/fastener-i...ead-pitch.aspx
shows the thread pitch options, including for JIS.
So in this case, for M10, it shows that 1.25 would normally be "fine" vs. the "standard" pitch of 1.5. But for JIS, it is 1.25.

So yes, if you've got an M10 bolt on your Lexus, betting on a 14mm hex head and a 1.25mm thread pitch is the JIS standard and a good bet. But they can always do something different if there is a good reason to do it.

You'll also need to guess on the length of the bolt. No help there from the standards.

And the strength of the bolt is another factor to consider. SAE uses "grade" (grade 5, grade 8, etc.) to classify yield strength. Metric bolts are graded by "class" (class 8.8, class 10.9, etc.). For automotive applications, grade 5 and class 8.8 are about equivalent, and are stronger than most bolts, but for a car, they are the normal strength ones. Then for the stronger applications, grade 8 and class 10.9 are about equivalent. Mega strong, very rare, are class 12.9 bolts. Not knowing in advance, you could probably guess that class 8.8 will do it for this application. Class 10.9 would be a safer bet. The bolts will be marked with their grade/class. No marking means it is below grade 5 / class 8.8.

But for the price of shipping a ten cent bolt, you could buy an assortment of 100+ pieces and be ready for the next job too. Choose the JIS assortment when you do this. Dorman makes kits like that and they can be found at PepBoys, O'Reilly's, etc. I noticed at O'Reilly's the other day, they had a ~100 piece, class 10.9 metric (don't remember if it was JIS or DIN), plated set for $9.99.

 

good grief... all that just for a bolt??... just go to a salvage yard and get one..

 

Also those Phillips looking screws on your Japanese vehicle arent.You need JIS screwdrivers to deal with them properly.MotorSickle peeps know all about that issue.

 

spuds, I should have said "go to a salvage yard and get (the very) one" you need... surely they have some wrecked LS's

 

Made me smile,so neatly placed in to the nutshell that was.