Rokas

Hey guys, I'm an owner of a '95 with 200k+ miles. I recently fixed a big issue I was having with the engine running rich and having very bad throttle response and power.

Anyway, it's fine now thankfully but now my idle is extremely low. It has actually been low for a while - before the aforementioned problems - sitting at about 300 RPM with the engine warmed up and everything was okay.

Now, however, it sits at about 200 RPM warmed up and that is so low that the car shakes. I'm honestly afraid that if the problem gets worse, the car will stall out.

So I have a few questions. First of all, what is the proper way to clean the EGR Valve? Can I take the round electrical part on top of it off and clean that?

I've tried a bunch of times to upload a picture of it but it's the black part on top that connects to an electrical wire. Is that OK to take off and clean? If so, can I use carb cleaner or just get the carbon off with a microfiber cloth? I'll try to post a picture again in a little while. I live in the boonies with bad reception.

I see that coolant runs through the bottom which confused me at first because I thought those were vacuum lines.

Now for the Idle Air Control Valve, am I correct that coolant also runs through the bottom of that part and that I should first drain some? Aside from that, do I simply disconnect the hoses, electrical connector, and bolts, and take it off to clean with throttle body cleaner?

I got a lot of help in my other thread, allowing me to solve the problem I was having (thanks guys), so I'm hoping to get some advice here aswell.

In the other thread, I was saying how the engine had never been maintained well and everything I changed out had a lot of carbon deposits so I know that one of those is gunked up aswell.

I have a feeling that the problem is the IACV but I would like to hear any other ideas. I don't know if it matters but the car is way overdue for a timing belt and waterpump change. I'm just having problems finding a good mechanic in Orlando, FL. One guy said that the belt might have skipped half a tooth or something and that might be the reason but I don't know if that's right... The idle is controlled by the ECU, correct?

Rokas

Please help me - I have PTSD and yesterday I was driving with a full blown panic attack just cause the idle sits so low when the car is warmed up, almost like it's gonna stall. It just shakes but stays on, however I need to fix it.



Please tell me, is the above pic the EGR valve? If so, can I take off the top black part to clean it?

The reason I'm confused is that Google also shows this as an EGR valve...



So which one is it?

And again, does the IACV have coolant running through the bottom?

The part in the first picture does on my car. I thought it was a vacuum line so I was going to change it when I realized coolant started dripping as I was taking off the hose.

Somebody please, ANY suggestions to get my idle up a little bit.

Apparently you can't just adjust it on this car. Some sites say you can by turning the TPS but that does nothing.

I know that my engine had a lot of sludge which I believe was loosened up and sent down the line to gunk up a bunch of other things when I used Seafoam. I've never had good results with that product. After I did that, it took me months to get my car running right, but now the idle is low. I don't know if that helps.

I'm getting my timing belt and water pump changed out next week and I would like to have my car running good. Should be the last thing I need to have this car reliable.

You know, even though the car completely pooped itself one time - lost 90% power - it was STILL driving. With all the problems, I was never stranded for more than a few days. Great car. I'm keeping it forever so I'm trying to get in running completely right. Again, thanks.

TL;Dr

PhilipMidd

I saw a redneck way of upping the idle RPM. Not sure if its a good idea, but I'll go find the video, let you make the choice. Might be an idea to have a chat with a few people more informed that me before you try this.
I dont know if its permanent once your put the wiring harness back together as it should be. Might not be. But for whatever its worth, have a look.

PhilipMidd

Also might be worth cleaning the throttle body - and thats safe, can be easily be done with Throttle Body cleaner.
If its dirty, cleaning it will help.
This video is for V6, but its the same.
Might be worth doing this first.

Rokas

I saw this earlier and I'll be honest - I have NO idea whatsoever of what he's doing. At all. Can someone explain in basic terms?

I'm about to go see if I can clean the IACV. If I don't have replacement hoses in case they break, I need to go to the parts store... Anyway wish me luck.

Again with the frickin black, round electrical component - can I clean it or not? I KNOW I took it off an older LS at the junkyard and it looked like it can be cleaned so somebody please speak up if you know. When you take it off, there is a spring inside with a cone shaped metal part facing down into where it plugs in. I think I might just have to open it up and pray I don't screw it up... Sigh.

Rokas

I was going to clean the IACV today and everything was going fine until I realized that there is a thick hose about 3-4 inches long that is very thick and hard and I have no idea how to slip it off EITHER WAY because the IACV sits against the throttle body and this hose attaches to the front of it, connecting to the coolant filler neck. My only question is how the hell do you get this off?

The only way I see is to cut the hose and replace it with a new one but even slipping on the hose in that small area seems almost impossible!

I was able to get a throttle body cleaner straw into the throttle body and the IACV partially because I did have a very small amount of room to pull it towards me, allowing me to kinda get in there but again, very inefficiently. Still it felt smoother when I started it up to move it but I have no idea - I will let you guys know if that helped at all. But I see myself doing this job all over again and taking off the part completely which, again, I wasn't able to do because of that hose locking it in.



In this picture, you can see it right before the big bolt you use to fill up the coolant.
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Rokas

Oh also, only about 1/3 of the coolant that I took out fit back in... What's up with that? I ran it for a sec and undid the filler bolt a little bit and coolant was coming out indicating it's full so I suppose that's okay. Maybe it will settle next time the thermostat goes off?

deanshark

The only time I had that hose disconnected is when I pulled the thermostat housing off during the Timing belt job. And yes, it needed a new hose. But in your case you need to remove the spark plug wire tray to have more clearance. To get it out you will need to cut it b/c it's so hard and brittle it will crack anyway. The new hose will be a little softer so you can bend and squeeze it to get it on. (Don't forget to put the clamps on the hose first. ) It is difficult but it can be done.

Your engine needs to warm up for the coolant level to go down. The T-stat needs to open and the coolant also goes through the heater core so you need to turn the heat on HOT to open the heater valve. Then you need to bleed out the air.

PhilipMidd

If you warm up the new replacement pipe and put a little (note only a little) grease on the solid pipe it will go on very easy.
Also make sure you get Neoprene pipe not Rubber.
All things you probably know, but someone else might not.

Rokas

Thanks, and you too Deanshark. Philip do you know the size of the hose/pipe? It looks rubber to me.

Anyway, I seemed to have somewhat fixed the problem if not completely.

What I did was just try to get as much throttle body cleaner in the tight space as I could. I also tightened the throttle cable a little more because it wouldn't move for a short distance as the pedal was being pressed.

Even though that hole between the IACV and throttle body was 2mm max, I guess it was enough because I noticed an immediate change in the way it runs - smoother - and no longer shakes like crazy at every red light. It actually still vibrates a little but the RPMs moved from the very bottom needle to the second one... Much better.

I suspect my ECU is still adjusting - sometimes the car doesn't shake or vibrate at all. And it's different now - it doesn't feel like it's about to die. Thank you guys.

I suspect I may have problems come back up until I take it off completely and clean it that way but what I was able to do helped a lot.

spuds

Im not the worlds greatest mechanic by any measure,but from what Ive researched on these cars (and Ive done a TON of studying up FWIW) you would want to remove the throttle body and get it cleaned up nice.I know on my 245,xxx mileage car the service records show its had 2 throttle body cleaning’s and last time a throttle body replacement(it failed smog and passed after that).So they DO need maintenance obviously.

Sounds to me that throttle body is the track you should be on,now get on the youtubes and get er done when you can.

Best wishes on your repair,youve done a lot of work,looks so very close now.

A little OT,seafoam unstuck a sticking lifter on my 100,xxx Jeepster,she purrs like a kitten now.

bradland

Sorry a little late to the game here...
When the idle dropped to the 200 to 300 RPM range I would've taken a hard look at the TPS (throttle position sensor(s)). Your car has 2 which doesn't make things easier. Also be careful not to disturb them if you remove the throttle body for cleaning AND use a cleaner that will not damage them. The slack in the throttle cable may very well have been a big part of your problem...

PhilipMidd

Mine was cracked and leaking when I purchased the car.
I just measured the OD (Outside Diameter) with a set of verniers and got a bit from my local speed shop. Cant remember the size.
I mentioned Neoprene simply cos Neoprene lasts so much longer, and some places still sell Rubber.
To look at, Neoprene and Rubber are hard to tell apart (except if you have enough pipe to be able to read the writing on the pipe).
Just take a measurement of the OD of the pipe and go from there. Just about any Auto shop should be able to help.
I got about 300mm (a foot) so I had some extra in case I managed to screw it up.
My old one snapped and crumbled at one end as I tried to remove it.

Rokas

Spuds, I'm pretty sure you're right. I'll add that to the list. It made a big difference just spraying it in there - my car idles at the second line now, warmed up, and it stopped shaking. There must have been a blockage right there where the IACV connects.

I had no idea there's two. I changed one out... Where is the other one? The one I changed is on the passenger side of the motor.

And Philip, thanks.

I never made the distinction but I think I've been getting Neoprene because yes, flimsy rubber that dry rots sucks.

spuds

Ive been following your thread.That sure is good news,must be a huge relief,congrats.