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Simple question about Engine Temp Sender (NOT Coolant Sensor)

Old Aug 5, 2017 | 04:34 AM
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Default Simple question about Engine Temp Sender (NOT Coolant Sensor)

Hey guys. Thank you all for the help you have given me. I have a simple question that I really need answered.

I'm trying to find the answer to my question which is: will the car run with the Engine Temperature SENDER (not Coolant Temp Sensor - the one next to it) disconnected? I know it probably will but I need confirmation. Guys, I know this is a stupid question but I need an answer. Whoever hooked up the old one crossed the wires around eachother so much that I'm afraid something will break and in that case, I need my car to keep running before I can get it fixed. So PLEASE somebody answer this. I've had this sender for like two months, my temp gauge is finally working insofar as it moves - it's not stuck anymore. And so it will be nice to see a real temp reading.
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Old Aug 6, 2017 | 04:21 AM
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The ECU is designed to throw a code TCCS 22 / OBD2 P0115 when it is open or fully short circuited. The engine can run in most of the case but rough.

Last edited by Yamae; Aug 6, 2017 at 06:53 AM.
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Old Aug 6, 2017 | 05:36 PM
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And when ever the check engine light is on, that means the system is running open loop. Meaning the O2 sensors are not controlling the fuel system. At least on OBD2 systems, I'm not so sure on the Gen 1 obd1 stuff.
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Old Aug 6, 2017 | 05:51 PM
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Originally Posted by dicer
And when ever the check engine light is on, that means the system is running open loop.
Are you sure on this, dicer?
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Old Aug 8, 2017 | 04:20 AM
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Originally Posted by dicer
And when ever the check engine light is on, that means the system is running open loop. Meaning the O2 sensors are not controlling the fuel system. At least on OBD2 systems, I'm not so sure on the Gen 1 obd1 stuff.
You know, the last time the check engine light came on, I realized, was after I changed a vacuum hose. You see, I was using a normal vacuum line for the coolant lines (old one dry rotted) and I didn't realize at first that they're too weak. Each time, they lasted a couple weeks. What would happen is they would twist (I assume from the force of the coolant flowing) and also harden (heat), leading to very bad flow and eventual crack. ANYWAY, I used a FUEL LINE this time and besides changing the rotors, I did nothing to the car except unplug the battery - after which the check engine light went off. Does this make sense? The ECU sensing that something is off?

It happened before, too. When I replaced the dry rotted hose the first or second time (don't remember), the check engine light also went off at that time (after disconnecting battery). It stayed off until the hose failed again.

Anyone ever heard of this happening?

I gotta say, I've never had a 200k mile car with no check engine light on, hehe.
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