No ignition on either side. It happened suddenly.
#16
I was at first reading thinking it just shut off. Most of the time on some car makes a no fire is no timing or rpm signal, cam or crank sensors, and that should throw a code. There is an igniter test on youtube, but to have both sides down its not likely an igniter problem. So have you checked for the ecu signal to igniters? Sensors to ecu? Simple stuff grounds and the connections even connections at the fusible links they get pretty bad, good power to ecu?
#17
I was at first reading thinking it just shut off. Most of the time on some car makes a no fire is no timing or rpm signal, cam or crank sensors, and that should throw a code. There is an igniter test on youtube, but to have both sides down its not likely an igniter problem. So have you checked for the ecu signal to igniters? Sensors to ecu? Simple stuff grounds and the connections even connections at the fusible links they get pretty bad, good power to ecu?
#19
I know there was a way to one shot it on you tube but it was the gen 1, I'll see if I can find it.
here ya go
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VG3EZJlyjl8
here ya go
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VG3EZJlyjl8
#21
#22
I forced a spark by pulling up the IGT inputs to 12V on both sides and got sparks. I also found 5V and 12V on the ECM was good but didn't look at ripple. I will now use an old analog (non storage type unfortunately) oscilloscope to look at the cam and crank sensors rather than test them with a multimeter to see if proper inputs are there while cranking. If those are good I will have to conclude that the ECM is bad. Don't know if new caps will fix it as an IC in the ECM may be bad. I may just go down to Autozone and pay a couple hundred just to get going. The remanufactured ECMs are guaranteed for a year and are flashed with the right code (supposed to be replacement for my factory part number). Advice is welcomed.
#23
Unfortunately my old 150Mhz Tektronics scope is essentially dead (possibly due to bad caps as it is over 20 years old) or not calibrated as the trace will not display (although I see it go off scale when powering up). I may have found another way to measure ripple on the 5VDC. I measured the voltages on the unplugged connector to Igniter 1 and found that the IGF1 voltage was 5VDC but dropped to .55VDC when plugged in. This makes sense when looking at the schematic block diagram. My multimeter has a DC blocking cap inserted when set on AC scale and is sensitive down to 5 mv. It has one problem in that the frequency response is only accurate up to 10 Khz so higher frequency ripple with likely not show accurately. I measured 5-10mV on the AC scale. I really would like a scope to see the ripple before declaring the multimeter method a good solution. At least I know the 5VDC is good.
#24
On my old Tek scopes its usually the pot for positioning is scratchy, takes a bit of fooling with to get it sometimes.
I've always liked them very quality item. I don't play with them as much as I should, gosh the 545 its been years.
I've always liked them very quality item. I don't play with them as much as I should, gosh the 545 its been years.
Last edited by dicer; 05-25-17 at 01:34 PM.
#25
I've got the 2445 repair manual but I'll put it off until priority items are done. News is I found the problem! An open crankshaft position sensor. Advanced auto had one in stock so I'm up and running! I did find some things that need repairing such as the shroud plastic mounts around the radiator had broken away all across the top so I'll have to fabricate something to secure the broken plastic My thanks to all who have helped. Hope I can return the favor.
#27
There is a small amount of leakage from the main bearing that flows over the CPS. I wonder if that is the reason for failures in older models. Probably not since the sensor is sealed. Thanks again.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
ITAngel
RX - 3rd Gen (2010-2015)
13
04-09-23 06:21 AM
anthonyini
LS - 1st and 2nd Gen (1990-2000)
2
08-06-12 03:05 AM