Need Help: Infamous 96 Alternator Pigtail Debacle
#1
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
Need Help: Infamous 96 Alternator Pigtail Debacle
Though it's been known to happen to all years, this is on my 96 LS400 and appears to be somewhat different from the other threads I've searched and read which is why I'm bringing up this tired topic again. The alternator failed with the vehicle around 187,000 miles so I ordered the preferred Denso reman unit. Got everything apart until it came time to pull that dang blasted pigtail off of the alternator and yes, it pretty much snapped the tab off with very little effort. Now I've seen where others have pulled the wires completely out leaving them pretty much lost on what goes where for a repin. Mines however is still connected as I've seen this before with other vehicles and quickly stopped before any wires could be pulled out.
Common sense tells me to just get another complete pigtail and wire assembly, splice & solder, then seal up with heat shrink tubing which I have plenty of and good experience soldering. The objective is to splice one wire at a time until I'm finally able to pull the alternator out of the vehicle leaving the old pigtail in while having a new pigtail attached to the original harness. The issue is I obviously can't find the pigtail locally. Several online I see which includes wiring that states it's specifically for the Denso unit, but is there a particular one to use or ones to avoid for quality issues?
Common sense tells me to just get another complete pigtail and wire assembly, splice & solder, then seal up with heat shrink tubing which I have plenty of and good experience soldering. The objective is to splice one wire at a time until I'm finally able to pull the alternator out of the vehicle leaving the old pigtail in while having a new pigtail attached to the original harness. The issue is I obviously can't find the pigtail locally. Several online I see which includes wiring that states it's specifically for the Denso unit, but is there a particular one to use or ones to avoid for quality issues?
Last edited by Diwill05; 05-06-17 at 05:30 PM.
#3
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
I saw that thread and read it several times though I still am not understanding some things. Apparently the pins can be pulled out, but I don't see exactly where in those illustrations. From what I can tell you were able to pull the pigtail apart from the connector, however, I have tried and it won't budge so the pigtail is still connected to the alternator socket. If the pins can be pulled out while the pigtail is still connected that's one thing, but if it has to be pulled apart then I'm in another predicament.
#4
Don't worry, dicer will be here soon reminding me to get some photos of releasing the lock tabs. Lol
Lets refer to what you are calling 'pins' as terminals. The terminals are crimped on to the wires. Take a photo of the back of the connector showing wire colors and their locations. If there are two of the same color be sure to use a zip tie or tape or something to remind you where it goes. The terminals must not be bent at all. They are held in with plastic tabs built into the connector housing. The lock tabs lock into voids in the terminals. To remove the terminals from the connector housing simply pry up on the plastic lock tabs inside the connector with a small straight pick. The terminal and wire will slide right out easy as pie. It takes literally no effort so don't pull hard. They will click back into the new connector housing pretty as you please. Sometimes there is a white plastic piece that covers over the locking tabs. If there is a white piece that needs to be popped out first.
It sounds like your connector is already broke so use that opportunity to teach yourself how it works as if you break it more no big deal.
Lets refer to what you are calling 'pins' as terminals. The terminals are crimped on to the wires. Take a photo of the back of the connector showing wire colors and their locations. If there are two of the same color be sure to use a zip tie or tape or something to remind you where it goes. The terminals must not be bent at all. They are held in with plastic tabs built into the connector housing. The lock tabs lock into voids in the terminals. To remove the terminals from the connector housing simply pry up on the plastic lock tabs inside the connector with a small straight pick. The terminal and wire will slide right out easy as pie. It takes literally no effort so don't pull hard. They will click back into the new connector housing pretty as you please. Sometimes there is a white plastic piece that covers over the locking tabs. If there is a white piece that needs to be popped out first.
It sounds like your connector is already broke so use that opportunity to teach yourself how it works as if you break it more no big deal.
#5
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
Okay... I think I've got it now. Taking the picture of how the wires are oriented because at this point there is no other way to get the connector to release without chance of breaking it further, correct?. At least you will know what goes where. Only part that was confusing is if the connector had to be removed from the alternator to pull the terminals loose from the inside or can they be pulled from the backside?. As far as I know the only thing that broke is the locking tab.
#6
Okay... I think I've got it now. Taking the picture of how the wires are oriented because at this point there is no other way to get the connector to release without chance of breaking it further, correct?. At least you will know what goes where. Only part that was confusing is if the connector had to be removed from the alternator to pull the terminals loose from the inside or can they be pulled from the backside?. As far as I know the only thing that broke is the locking tab.
Trending Topics
#8
Don't worry, dicer will be here soon reminding me to get some photos of releasing the lock tabs. Lol
Lets refer to what you are calling 'pins' as terminals. The terminals are crimped on to the wires. Take a photo of the back of the connector showing wire colors and their locations. If there are two of the same color be sure to use a zip tie or tape or something to remind you where it goes. The terminals must not be bent at all. They are held in with plastic tabs built into the connector housing. The lock tabs lock into voids in the terminals. To remove the terminals from the connector housing simply pry up on the plastic lock tabs inside the connector with a small straight pick. The terminal and wire will slide right out easy as pie. It takes literally no effort so don't pull hard. They will click back into the new connector housing pretty as you please. Sometimes there is a white plastic piece that covers over the locking tabs. If there is a white piece that needs to be popped out first.
It sounds like your connector is already broke so use that opportunity to teach yourself how it works as if you break it more no big deal.
Lets refer to what you are calling 'pins' as terminals. The terminals are crimped on to the wires. Take a photo of the back of the connector showing wire colors and their locations. If there are two of the same color be sure to use a zip tie or tape or something to remind you where it goes. The terminals must not be bent at all. They are held in with plastic tabs built into the connector housing. The lock tabs lock into voids in the terminals. To remove the terminals from the connector housing simply pry up on the plastic lock tabs inside the connector with a small straight pick. The terminal and wire will slide right out easy as pie. It takes literally no effort so don't pull hard. They will click back into the new connector housing pretty as you please. Sometimes there is a white plastic piece that covers over the locking tabs. If there is a white piece that needs to be popped out first.
It sounds like your connector is already broke so use that opportunity to teach yourself how it works as if you break it more no big deal.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post