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I've mentioned this a few times in threads I've created but the info get's lost easy in the amount of content surrounding it so I feel it's worth compiling a new thread showcasing something many people may not know. The electrical connectors on these cars are very brittle by now. Removing them or even knocking into them can shatter them or at least break the lock tab. This is common on the fuel injector connectors as well as the No.1 coil connector and cam sensor connectors. Pretty much any connector near heat is going to be brittle. Being as OCD as I am, if I break a connector I replace it if able.
The way that Toyota handles the part numbering system on connectors makes this very easy. You do not even know a parts diagram to find the part numbers and most will not even be available on parts diagrams. The connectors are readily sold separately and I've yet to come across one that hasn't been available. They range from $6-8 for smaller connectors and $12-16 on large ones. Worth it.
Every connector part number starts with 90980. The last 5 numbers are located on the connector itself. This connector I'm showcasing is the main transmission control connector that seats on the harness internal in the transmission. It's part number is 90980-10891. Mine got damaged via a freak thing when lowering and raising my trans to access bell housing bolts. If you don't take notice to these sorts of things you'll wonder why things aren't working after reassembly when they did before. See the photo of the damaged connector. The damage isn't hard to miss but it's substantial when you look at it close. It popped that pin out of the back of the connector.
To replace the connector you really just need to take a photo of the back of the connector showing the colors of wires and what pin that go in rather than having to consult a wiring diagram. This is easier. This one has two yellow wires with no trace. You can paint mark one if you want but I just removed the corner yellow wire last, left it in my fingers and inserted it directly into the corner pin on the new connector. The rest of the wires are different colors. You'll only need a small pick or very small flathead screwdriver to release the terminals from the connector. Some large connectors like this have a white retainer that covers the release tabs. This white retainer has to be removed first. It's partially installed in the bag from the factory on the new one. The old one will probably break apart as you pop it out. Whatever it takes, just don't damage the terminals themselves. Lift up on the lock tab while pulling on the wire at the back and it will slide out with it's moisture barrier. Installing the terminal into the new connector is finished by an audible 'click.'
Questions?
New connector in the bag as it came from the dealer. Here is the damaged connector. It's pretty clear when you look at it. Image 1 showing colored wire pin locations. Image 2 of wiring locations. Here is the old connector with the white retainer removed showing the lock tabs. It's a rather good idea to do this with the battery disconnected. Wonder why? New connector on the left, old on the right. Slightly different design. The last 5 of the part number are in a much nicer location on the old one than the new one. The new ones number is shown a few images down from this one. Other side of the new vs old. The last 5 of the part number on the new connector is buried down in the very bottom right cavity. The new connector is slightly glossy so the flash on my phone blows it out a little bit. But it say's 10891. New connector installed with the new white retainer.
I know places like Matco tools and snap on sell the connector tools. Also Banshee it would be most helpful to show what side to pry at and partially remove the terminal and show the latch point and where to position the screw driver to pry at. Good stuff.
Look at the photo showing the connector damage. The terminal on the top row second from the left. You'll see the terminal lock tab released as the damage forced that pin out of its hole from squishing the plastic. The rest are seated. That is where you pry up while pulling lightly on the wire. I really don't see what would be a better tool than a small thin flat blade screwdriver. A dedicated pin release tool ideal for this would pretty much be a small thin flat blade screwdriver in a pin release tool package for $40 on the snap on truck.
Banshee thank you for this write up it was very helpful for me to replace a bunch of crispy connectors in the engine bay.
just wanted to share the tool I found that works great. Specially built for this task. It’s made by Wits End, who support the land cruiser community and makes all sorts of specialty items. Not cheap but works well and very sturdy.
03-08-17, 01:11 PM
Replacing broken/damaged connector write-up
