JJDAG

Today I finally had time to change the cat converter gaskets to fix the bank 1 low efficiency code I keep getting, after dropping the y pipe I can see the converter is coming apart internally. The big question, is there any trick to getting those split lock nuts off without snapping the studs ? The converters have 3 studs and nuts on the top. One stud broke even after heating cherry red with a torch. luckily it left enough material to put a new nut on. If the rest snap there isn't much room to get a drill up there and all the nuts that hold the manifold to the head are the same design. I put it back together as I need to order a new converter but im not looking forward to breaking all these studs that thought give me a head ache. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

dicer

Use kroil or lots of folks like pb blaster I think that's what its called. Let it sit keep putting the stuff on the studs and nuts. clean the threads with a small wire brush as best as possible. Don't run it, let it sit. If that doesn't free them. Use the heat and cycle them hot and cool a few times then more of the kroil, let is soak again. If you don't want to deal with that again using stainless steel studs and nuts would fix it. If all that fails torch the nuts off.

JJDAG

I did use the torch had the nut red hot kept working it back and forth, tried heating the manifold thinking maybe the stud would come out no luck stud wasn't coming out , went back at the nut got it down to where the split was at the end of the stud then the stud broke off. If the nuts didn't have that split at the end to lock them on they would come off heating them. Its so tight up there I don't want to catch the car on fire. I did buy all new hardware from Lexus to replace it once I get it out.
Its a good thing I love this car...

JJDAG

Has anyone used Bosal converters ? Rock Auto has a direct bolt on replacement from them and Eastern both about $205 each Lexus of Atlanta wants $1270 I know the OE has more precious metals in them making them cost so much more.

dicer

I can understand Lexus having big prices on parts when the cars were up to 5 years old. But to have the purely dumb high prices on certain parts for 25 year old cars is just nonsense. I can just picture them cleaning the parts shelves off and saying "we just tossed em in a dumpster, no one was purchasing them and they were way out of date". Its like come on make the parts cost less than what a whole car goes for now.

JJDAG

I used to work for Ford and Chevrolet and thats exactly what they do. Many times when we would request to send old stock back for a credit the manufacturer would issue the credit but just have us scrap the parts. What a waste.

dicer

And yeah you would think someone that is higher up, and that is supposed to have some sort of intelligence and a huge degree etc. etc. would figure out that selling something like a idle air control valve for a 25 year old car for $600. just does not make any sense at all, as its not going to be the same wealthy person that bought the car new 25 years ago that has it now and to most people it makes absolutely no financial sense to spend more on a few parts than the car is worth, to some of us it may but still. Lexus needs to wake up, move some old parts. And can't the higher ups figure out that you are going to get way more selling old parts for way less than you will scrapping them. Like Sewell they should have offered outdated parts at a 75 to 80% discount. That is like 500% more than scrap value, it may even run into the 10,000% range for some parts especially if its of no value as scrap and ends up in a garbage can.

JJDAG

Or donate the parts to be scraped to Club Lexus ! Imagne

Losiracer2

I had a p0420 and p0430 code on my 97 LS. I just used some anti-foulers in the rear oxygen sensors to get rid of the code. It doesn't affect the efficiency of the car, i still get 28mpg on the hwy.

Cost me about 8 bucks for 2 sets since you'll need a total of 4 antifoulers. What you do is drill out the first one with a 1/2 drill bit, screw that into the Y-pipe and then screw a new one into that drilled out one, then finally put the post-cat o2 sensor into that. Easy as that.

I did that 3 months ago and put on 5k miles since then, no codes and still avg 21mpg mixed driving. on regular.