Ls400 2000 belts ??
08-04-15, 10:06 AM
#1
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
Ls400 2000 belts ??
Hello everyone
im looking for the part number also im confused about all these belts
timing belt accessory drive belt, V belt, or serpentine belt what are the difference ? i need to get a belts but how do i know which is which lol
im looking for the part number also im confused about all these belts
timing belt accessory drive belt, V belt, or serpentine belt what are the difference ? i need to get a belts but how do i know which is which lol
08-04-15, 11:20 AM
#2
The timing belt is different, but other than that one, those are all different names for the same thing.
Drive belt = accessory belt = alternator belt = "A" (for alternator or accessory) belt = serpentine belt
On my '91, and I'll assume yours too, the drive belt also drives the AC compressor and the Power Steering pump. Some cars have separate belts for those items. On our cars, the water pump is driven by the timing belt, but that is different from most cars where the drive belt also runs the water pump.
What matters on getting the right drive belt:
length - the tensioner has some give, so there is some tolerance in there that will also allow for stretch as it gets older or warms up. Here it looks like your options range around 88" +/- 3/8" or so. It would be good to find out what the Lexus belt spec is if you're going aftermarket, but I expect all of those will fit.
#of ribs/V's/grooves - the pulleys have V-shaped channels to keep it in place, so of course the number has to match. Here, the answer appears to be 6. This also factors into the width.
quality - better is better, of course. But unlike a timing belt, the drive belt is very easy to inspect and replace, so the risk of using lower quality may be OK.
When installing, it is surprisingly common for people to mis-route the belt through all the pulleys. There should be a sticker in the engine bay (maybe on the underside of the hood) showing the correct routing, in case it is not obvious. Also, if you route it and find you're like 8 inches too short or too long, you routed it wrong. You should need to deflect the tensioner to get it over the last pulley when re-installing. You'll find that one of the pulleys makes the most sense as the last one to fit the belt over when re-installing.
Drive belt = accessory belt = alternator belt = "A" (for alternator or accessory) belt = serpentine belt
On my '91, and I'll assume yours too, the drive belt also drives the AC compressor and the Power Steering pump. Some cars have separate belts for those items. On our cars, the water pump is driven by the timing belt, but that is different from most cars where the drive belt also runs the water pump.
What matters on getting the right drive belt:
length - the tensioner has some give, so there is some tolerance in there that will also allow for stretch as it gets older or warms up. Here it looks like your options range around 88" +/- 3/8" or so. It would be good to find out what the Lexus belt spec is if you're going aftermarket, but I expect all of those will fit.
#of ribs/V's/grooves - the pulleys have V-shaped channels to keep it in place, so of course the number has to match. Here, the answer appears to be 6. This also factors into the width.
quality - better is better, of course. But unlike a timing belt, the drive belt is very easy to inspect and replace, so the risk of using lower quality may be OK.
When installing, it is surprisingly common for people to mis-route the belt through all the pulleys. There should be a sticker in the engine bay (maybe on the underside of the hood) showing the correct routing, in case it is not obvious. Also, if you route it and find you're like 8 inches too short or too long, you routed it wrong. You should need to deflect the tensioner to get it over the last pulley when re-installing. You'll find that one of the pulleys makes the most sense as the last one to fit the belt over when re-installing.
Last edited by oldskewel; 08-04-15 at 11:24 AM.
08-04-15, 11:54 AM
#4
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
The timing belt is different, but other than that one, those are all different names for the same thing.
Drive belt = accessory belt = alternator belt = "A" (for alternator or accessory) belt = serpentine belt
On my '91, and I'll assume yours too, the drive belt also drives the AC compressor and the Power Steering pump. Some cars have separate belts for those items. On our cars, the water pump is driven by the timing belt, but that is different from most cars where the drive belt also runs the water pump.
What matters on getting the right drive belt:
length - the tensioner has some give, so there is some tolerance in there that will also allow for stretch as it gets older or warms up. Here it looks like your options range around 88" +/- 3/8" or so. It would be good to find out what the Lexus belt spec is if you're going aftermarket, but I expect all of those will fit.
#of ribs/V's/grooves - the pulleys have V-shaped channels to keep it in place, so of course the number has to match. Here, the answer appears to be 6. This also factors into the width.
quality - better is better, of course. But unlike a timing belt, the drive belt is very easy to inspect and replace, so the risk of using lower quality may be OK.
When installing, it is surprisingly common for people to mis-route the belt through all the pulleys. There should be a sticker in the engine bay (maybe on the underside of the hood) showing the correct routing, in case it is not obvious. Also, if you route it and find you're like 8 inches too short or too long, you routed it wrong. You should need to deflect the tensioner to get it over the last pulley when re-installing. You'll find that one of the pulleys makes the most sense as the last one to fit the belt over when re-installing.
Drive belt = accessory belt = alternator belt = "A" (for alternator or accessory) belt = serpentine belt
On my '91, and I'll assume yours too, the drive belt also drives the AC compressor and the Power Steering pump. Some cars have separate belts for those items. On our cars, the water pump is driven by the timing belt, but that is different from most cars where the drive belt also runs the water pump.
What matters on getting the right drive belt:
length - the tensioner has some give, so there is some tolerance in there that will also allow for stretch as it gets older or warms up. Here it looks like your options range around 88" +/- 3/8" or so. It would be good to find out what the Lexus belt spec is if you're going aftermarket, but I expect all of those will fit.
#of ribs/V's/grooves - the pulleys have V-shaped channels to keep it in place, so of course the number has to match. Here, the answer appears to be 6. This also factors into the width.
quality - better is better, of course. But unlike a timing belt, the drive belt is very easy to inspect and replace, so the risk of using lower quality may be OK.
When installing, it is surprisingly common for people to mis-route the belt through all the pulleys. There should be a sticker in the engine bay (maybe on the underside of the hood) showing the correct routing, in case it is not obvious. Also, if you route it and find you're like 8 inches too short or too long, you routed it wrong. You should need to deflect the tensioner to get it over the last pulley when re-installing. You'll find that one of the pulleys makes the most sense as the last one to fit the belt over when re-installing.
so i need accessory and a Serpentine Belt ? correct ??
and if so whats the difference between these two in the photo
part number is
6PK2223
6PK2238
any of the belts in that site would work just fine then? yes
08-04-15, 04:06 PM
#5
Yes, I expect every belt on that screen shot _should_ work. They are all trying to be the same thing, but they are not identical.
It looks like the numbering system 6PK#### has 6 meaning the number of ribs (v's), PK I think defines the shape and size of each rib, then the #### is the effective length in mm. So of the two choices you gave, one is 2223 mm long, and the other is 2238. 15mm difference, or about 5/8 inch. I expect either would work, but the long one might be at the long end of what will fit, and the short one will be at the short end of the range.
Right in the middle might be best, assuming the RockAuto algorithm for showing what fits is accurate. That puts you around 2230, which also happens to be the first one on the list, and the cheapest. Amazon sells it for $20.85 ( ), so it's probably good. I'd get that one.
It looks like the numbering system 6PK#### has 6 meaning the number of ribs (v's), PK I think defines the shape and size of each rib, then the #### is the effective length in mm. So of the two choices you gave, one is 2223 mm long, and the other is 2238. 15mm difference, or about 5/8 inch. I expect either would work, but the long one might be at the long end of what will fit, and the short one will be at the short end of the range.
Right in the middle might be best, assuming the RockAuto algorithm for showing what fits is accurate. That puts you around 2230, which also happens to be the first one on the list, and the cheapest. Amazon sells it for $20.85 ( ), so it's probably good. I'd get that one.
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jbtvt (02-28-24)
08-06-15, 05:32 AM
#7
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
DAYCO 5060878 POLY RIB®; Effective Length 87.79 / Top Width .82 / No of Ribs 6 / Thickness 0.169
blue prints
my belt is fine but why i want to change cause im going put a higher output ALT a 240A SINGER ALT
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08-06-15, 07:43 AM
#8
is there a way i could identify the belt while its on the car cause i checked the belt on the car it has the same markings as this one
DAYCO 5060878 POLY RIB®; Effective Length 87.79 / Top Width .82 / No of Ribs 6 / Thickness 0.169
blue prints
my belt is fine but why i want to change cause im going put a higher output ALT a 240A SINGER ALT
DAYCO 5060878 POLY RIB®; Effective Length 87.79 / Top Width .82 / No of Ribs 6 / Thickness 0.169
blue prints
my belt is fine but why i want to change cause im going put a higher output ALT a 240A SINGER ALT
08-06-15, 08:34 AM
#9
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
08-06-15, 04:46 PM
#10
The price is cheap, but the belt isn't. I've got a Bando on my 98. These belts are good for 100,000 miles. But if it makes you feel better, pay more for another belt.
What's the first company on that list?
Bando is a development and manufacturing partner of following automotive groups and brands all over the world.
TOYOTA
NISSAN
HONDA
MITSUBISHI MOTORS
SUBARU
MAZDA
SUZUKI
DAIHATSU
HINO
NISSAN DIESEL
VW AG
GENERAL MOTORS
SMART
BMW
CITROEN
PEUGOT
HYUNDAI
KIA MOTORS
What's the first company on that list?
Bando is a development and manufacturing partner of following automotive groups and brands all over the world.
TOYOTA
NISSAN
HONDA
MITSUBISHI MOTORS
SUBARU
MAZDA
SUZUKI
DAIHATSU
HINO
NISSAN DIESEL
VW AG
GENERAL MOTORS
SMART
BMW
CITROEN
PEUGOT
HYUNDAI
KIA MOTORS
Last edited by aptoslexus; 08-06-15 at 05:07 PM.
08-06-15, 05:30 PM
#11
Moderator
08-07-15, 02:17 PM
#12
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
cause lastime my buddy got a cheap belt after a few months it had a squealing noise
so i checked this dayco belt https://www.rockauto.com/catalog/mor...nid=361&jpid=2
and this bando
https://www.rockauto.com/catalog/mor...nid=361&jpid=0
dayco belt has help eliminate noisy belt conditions
bando not mention or are they the same ?
cause i already have noise from the brakes ( rotor required )
thanks for hellping a newbie out 
so i checked this dayco belt https://www.rockauto.com/catalog/mor...nid=361&jpid=2
and this bando
https://www.rockauto.com/catalog/mor...nid=361&jpid=0
dayco belt has help eliminate noisy belt conditions
bando not mention or are they the same ?
cause i already have noise from the brakes ( rotor required )
thanks for hellping a newbie out
08-07-15, 06:32 PM
#13
Squealing is caused by contaminated pulleys or misaligned pulleys. It's not the belt. I have no idea if Dayco's design helps prevent squealing on worn hardware. I'd rather fix the hardware than hope a fancy belt helps me forget that my hardware is failing.
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