This is a discussion on engine oil. If your viewpoint differs then keep replies to the topic on hand.

 

I dunno guys i've been using Mobil 1 for years in all my cars, the last car I bought at 100k and started using it right away I just sold the car with 245k it never leaked a drop of oil although the car had high miles it still ran great, I still change it every 3500 miles, I'm a freak about maintenance and will continue using it in my LS400, 4Runner and Chevy pickup.

 

http://auto.howstuffworks.com/5-engine-oil-myths5.htm

 

The thing with synthetics is I think some of the molecules are so small they will find a way out, and also like the article says too.
I just know my low miles 2000 car leaked ever so lightly after going full syn in it. Even developed a small drip it never had before, the car now has about 55,000 miles on it. And has been on the syn for about 10 years now.

 

low miles doesnt equate to seals being good,its actually better to drive a car than to let it sit for long periods at a time or not drive it at all. just sayin..if u started having a leak it wasnt caused by synthetic oil..thats a myth developed from years ago.

 

So that means you can buy Mobil 1 before rebate for about $4.80 quart (assuming your 10 for $24 does not factor in tax, which makes it not such a deal). Where can I do that? Yes, 10 quarts for $24 - sign me up for some of that.

BTW, they've been arguing about synthetic vs. non-synthetic since the dinosaurs roamed the earth. I don't think we're going to resolve anything on that here today. Lots of good opinions here (and humor too) with science and experience to back it up. Thanks for sharing positively.

 

Walmart http://www.walmart.com/ip/Mobil-1-5W...5-qt./17034372 and Amazon.com had it for about $24 for the 5 quart jugs. I think amazon ran out of the cheaper stuff, but you can still pick up the extended performance for about $27:
You can do two rebates, so if you buy 2, you get $24 back. Yes, it's a deal, even with tax.

https://mobiloil.com/en/promotion/mo...nd-mobil-super

 

Using Mobil 1 High Mileage Full Synthetic. LS400's @ 229k miles; no leaks, drips, or burning of oil

 

I'm a member on several other car forums and on each one there's a weekly discussion about which oil to use

Can't escape it, I guess.

Most people overthink it, really. Most people should stick with manufacturer's recommended oil. Only time to use something different would be: if you live in extreme climates or if you had your engine rebuilt and the builder told you to use something else during break-in period.

 

uh they have back spec'ed oil on some cars because the theory is to use thinner oil..so a car that was originally designed to use 10w-30 is now recommended to use 5w-30....so toss that out sonic

 

Can you please expand on this? I can understand that some formulations (like 0W-anything) might not have been widely available back when the cars were designed, so they designed the engines for 5w30 and put that on the filler cap. Just like in the decades before that, 10W-40 was probably the most common weight, before manufacturing tolerances were tightened enough that 5w-30 could become more standard.

But they had plenty of tribology theory back in the late '80s when our engines were designed. I also know that with higher gas prices now, manufacturers try to lean towards thinner oil to reduce drag in the engine, at the expense of greater wear. But this goes into the engine design when it's real, and not when it's not real, and done for marketing reasons.

I of course don't know the examples of back-spec'ing you're talking about. I'd be interested to hear if it is ever done for reasons other than I listed above - which to me are not very good reasons to change the spec, and I will try to understand and probably ignore.

Example - one of my other cars is an older Porsche 911, factory spec'ed with 15w-50 or 20w-50. And yes it even has a Shell sticker on the engine heater blower, which was changed to a Mobil1 sticker in later years - and no, I don't think the engine design engineers thought that one up either. That's what I've used all these years. Fast forward to around 2014, and the Porsche marketing geniuses (really) release a synthetic, Porsche branded, "engineered in Weissach," 10w-60 oil in a painted steel can, suitable for display in your living room, for $10+ per quart, claiming to be back-spec'ed to virtually every air-cooled Porsche ever made. There is no "theory" involved here other than marketing.



And yes, I did want to buy a quart of that to put on the coffee table in my living room, but my wife has veto power over calls like that.

 

Thanks for the tip. I got the last high mileage 5w30 at Amazon for 23.xx:

and then a regular 5w20 (for a different car) at PepBoys for 24.xx. ($40.49 minus 40%)
http://www.pepboys.com/product/details/305901/00827
Both prices are before tax, but shipping was free for both, and I'll be getting $12 back on each from Mobil.

 

For hot climates a 5w- ? is pretty watery. As 5 is the base with viscosity index improvers added. And there are many cars that are less than 10 years old advertised needing engine work nation wide. I have seen many a newer car or truck smoking, its a different requirement between what the bearings require vs what the rings require for lubrication.

 

My LS has 275,000km.. always had 100% syn... never leaked or used a drop of oil...

 

while we are on the subject, as with all motor oil threads, please read!
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/motor-oil-101/

to the OP, ambient temp plays a role in choosing the viscosity or grade of your oil. what have you been using normally? I would venture to guess 10w-30. conventional or synthetic is a matter of preference at this point.